Quantcast
Jump to content

2scoops

New shock hoops

Recommended Posts

One of my goals in lowering my front diff was to hopefully not have to use limiting straps with my 8.5 inch shocks. Unfortunately, lowering my diff did not allow me to achieve this. So, I started on new shock hoops for the front. I cannibalized tubes from the rear dump bed that I removed. The angle was exactly what I needed, and I don't have an 1.5 inch die for my bender. One challenge I ran into was welding the tube--its super thin. I am not a great welder and even with my 110 vold welder it was hard not to burn through. I am only set up for flux core wire. If I was using Co2 it probably would have been much easier. I cut the tube that the upper shock mount bolts to, cutting straight down just inside the original shock mount bolt hole and removed that section of tube. The new shock hoop runs about 2 inches over the top of the tube I just mentioned. One end is welded to the top middle frame and the other is welded to the front bumper tube. then, I tied it back in to the cut section of tube and original shock bracket using 3/16 inch plate steel--it is not going anywhere. I will have to make some holes in the hood to accomodate the new hoops. They will probably stick out about 1 inch. If I don't booger it up, it should look really cool. Now, my shocks will extend right to my max limit--no limiting straps needed. At full compression the shock has about 1/2 inch left on the shaft.

My front suspension travel is now just over 12 inches. I can't get anymore with out different CV's. My up travel is limited by the ball joints. After being done, I would bet that my original suspension travel was no more than 8-9 inches stock. In stock form my T2 rested with maybe 1 inch of droop. Now, it is like 4-5 inches of droop at original ride height. Another added benifit is the shock is at a better angle than stock--more inline with the travel of the A-arms. I can't wait to take it to Moab!

post-867-0-70551400-1300065739_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


One of my goals in lowering my front diff was to hopefully not have to use limiting straps with my 8.5 inch shocks. Unfortunately, lowering my diff did not allow me to achieve this. So, I started on new shock hoops for the front. I cannibalized tubes from the rear dump bed that I removed. The angle was exactly what I needed, and I don't have an 1.5 inch die for my bender. One challenge I ran into was welding the tube--its super thin. I am not a great welder and even with my 110 vold welder it was hard not to burn through. I am only set up for flux core wire. If I was using Co2 it probably would have been much easier. I cut the tube that the upper shock mount bolts to, cutting straight down just inside the original shock mount bolt hole and removed that section of tube. The new shock hoop runs about 2 inches over the top of the tube I just mentioned. One end is welded to the top middle frame and the other is welded to the front bumper tube. then, I tied it back in to the cut section of tube and original shock bracket using 3/16 inch plate steel--it is not going anywhere. I will have to make some holes in the hood to accomodate the new hoops. They will probably stick out about 1 inch. If I don't booger it up, it should look really cool. Now, my shocks will extend right to my max limit--no limiting straps needed. At full compression the shock has about 1/2 inch left on the shaft.

My front suspension travel is now just over 12 inches. I can't get anymore with out different CV's. My up travel is limited by the ball joints. After being done, I would bet that my original suspension travel was no more than 8-9 inches stock. In stock form my T2 rested with maybe 1 inch of droop. Now, it is like 4-5 inches of droop at original ride height. Another added benifit is the shock is at a better angle than stock--more inline with the travel of the A-arms. I can't wait to take it to Moab!

I was thinking about doing shock hoops on mine. This is interesting. I cant wait to see your finished product.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks good! How much did you buy the fox shox for and where?

Thanks, got them off Ebay almost new--set of 5 for $900.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Yeah looks pretty trick!

Thanks Rocmoc. I just got off the phone with Nick at Offroad Warehouse. Thanks for the tip! He suggested 150 over 250 in the front & 200 over 350 in the rear. He said that is what they have put on other Troopers.

Also, I gotta give a plug to Steve at Makintrax suspension. He offered to send me some used springs to test out until I found the correct rates. Steve knows what he is doing as well.

I wasn't intending the shock replacement to be this extensive, but I am trying to squeeze every centimeter out of the suspension. The back has GOT to be easier than the front!

There are more pics in the gallery if you haven't found them yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Rocmoc. I just got off the phone with Nick at Offroad Warehouse. Thanks for the tip! He suggested 150 over 250 in the front & 200 over 350 in the rear. He said that is what they have put on other Troopers.

Also, I gotta give a plug to Steve at Makintrax suspension. He offered to send me some used springs to test out until I found the correct rates. Steve knows what he is doing as well.

I wasn't intending the shock replacement to be this extensive, but I am trying to squeeze every centimeter out of the suspension. The back has GOT to be easier than the front!

There are more pics in the gallery if you haven't found them yet.

I saw the other photos,really looks good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of my goals in lowering my front diff was to hopefully not have to use limiting straps with my 8.5 inch shocks. Unfortunately, lowering my diff did not allow me to achieve this. So, I started on new shock hoops for the front. I cannibalized tubes from the rear dump bed that I removed. The angle was exactly what I needed, and I don't have an 1.5 inch die for my bender. One challenge I ran into was welding the tube--its super thin. I am not a great welder and even with my 110 vold welder it was hard not to burn through. I am only set up for flux core wire. If I was using Co2 it probably would have been much easier. I cut the tube that the upper shock mount bolts to, cutting straight down just inside the original shock mount bolt hole and removed that section of tube. The new shock hoop runs about 2 inches over the top of the tube I just mentioned. One end is welded to the top middle frame and the other is welded to the front bumper tube. then, I tied it back in to the cut section of tube and original shock bracket using 3/16 inch plate steel--it is not going anywhere. I will have to make some holes in the hood to accomodate the new hoops. They will probably stick out about 1 inch. If I don't booger it up, it should look really cool. Now, my shocks will extend right to my max limit--no limiting straps needed. At full compression the shock has about 1/2 inch left on the shaft.

My front suspension travel is now just over 12 inches. I can't get anymore with out different CV's. My up travel is limited by the ball joints. After being done, I would bet that my original suspension travel was no more than 8-9 inches stock. In stock form my T2 rested with maybe 1 inch of droop. Now, it is like 4-5 inches of droop at original ride height. Another added benifit is the shock is at a better angle than stock--more inline with the travel of the A-arms. I can't wait to take it to Moab!

your not kidding about how thin the walls of the tubes are.I think it was rocmoc who i first heard it from when he was doing his cage mod and i learned first hand when i fabed my doors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw the other photos,really looks good.

Thanks! You know I was thinking you could almost make what I am doing into a bolt on kit to mass market. My only concern is that Joyners are hand built and all have slightly different angles. Well, either way if it works out to be a sucess I will help anyone on this forum if they want to take it on. I will be able to take out 90% of the guess work. I have been making templates of all of the tabs I have been making with exception to the diff lowering. If I was to do that again I would probably tackle it a little differently. Plus, that is pretty straight forward.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! You know I was thinking you could almost make what I am doing into a bolt on kit to mass market. My only concern is that Joyners are hand built and all have slightly different angles. Well, either way if it works out to be a sucess I will help anyone on this forum if they want to take it on. I will be able to take out 90% of the guess work. I have been making templates of all of the tabs I have been making with exception to the diff lowering. If I was to do that again I would probably tackle it a little differently. Plus, that is pretty straight forward.

Definitly would love some help with mine. I will be tackling this same project very soon. Just need to find shocks front and rear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


What size shocks are you running on the front?

8.5 inch fox. I think the extended length is 23.35 inches. If you could find some shocks that are 21 inches extended you wouldn't have to build shock hoops. The factory shocks are 20 inches extended. I just really thought my droop would increase more than 1 inch at the shock mount bolt holes. At the wheels it translates into more. BUT, I think everyones rides are unique...you may be able to get more.

Anwer me this question,

When you look at your front CV's at ride height, are the ends perfectly inline (diff and wheel), or are they offset? Which direction?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By 2wpuller
      Has anyone replaced the stock shocks and springs on their 2015 Dominator 800 X2 to ride alittle smoother are just changing the springs out.I gotten alittle spoiled riding in my son's rzr 1000xp.
      My wife just made a comment why don't ride as smooth as our son's thing.lol
      I'm 62 she's 61 the little rough ride doesn't really bother me. I drive a concrete mixer for a living. 
      I really like the Odes it's pretty good power for for only 800cc
      I took off the cat and the stock muffler. Put a glasspack with 2" inlet and outlet it has a good deep tone and not really very loud. I'll find out Sunday when we hit the woods .It's definitely more peppy. 
    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • By petejank
      Anyone know of an aftermarket shock that fits a Arctic Cat Prowler 2006 650 H1 4x4?
      The direct replacement isn't currently available and costs $170.00  ea.
    • By Anthony Butler
      So my rear diff lock cable is seized on a 2009 trooper 1100 T2 . How do i remove the end that goes into the diff ? 
    • By paraord
      Hey guys,

      While installing the High lifter lift kit in my 2015 Mule 4010 I nicked the piston, strut rod, the shiney rod in the middle that I cant remember the name (no coffee yet this morning). I knew the nick was deep enough to eventually tear up the seal and she'd let loose. Well 3 months or so down the road here we are, its blown out. 
       
      My question is how do I know which strut I have? I see 2 listed in the exploded 45023-1006 and the 45023-7503. The difference is the spring rate or K value. Seeing as I have high lifter springs does it matter the K value? And if that's the case can I use any of the 45023 prefix struts from various other models? 

      Thanks all,
       
      Andrew


×
×
  • Create New...