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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By HighSon
Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy.
Locking gas door.
Rear view mirror.
Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin.
Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view. Tailgate protector.
Folding armrests.
Overhead utility rack. Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too!
Folding rear seats.
Dust cover and seat protector.
If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post. But know that everything requires some level of fabrication. The utility rack was all custom built. Cheers!
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By lincolnsq175
Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
Any info is appreciated.
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By MilSurpYinzer
Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
Tire chains for the winter
And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
Bumpers because duh.
I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
Thanks so much!
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By riggy400
Bought a Coleman 400 UTV (pretty much a Hisun), the previous owner tried to replace the timing chain, couldn't time it properly and sold it to me. After some hours I figured out how the timing all is supposed to be set (I think/hope) and as I am reassembling, I noticed that the water pump gear was awfully hard to spin. I held the gear with my hand and spun off the impeller. I checked the bearing, spins great no obvious issues noticed other than this o-ring which seems to be out of place? When I remove this o-ring and reassemble the WP, it seems to spin nice and easy without a drag. I looked up the service manual (although very inaccurate info there often) and don't see this o-ring present. Am I missing something here or what? Any input?
This is not easy to access once the engine is back in the machine so would like to avoid having to deal with this if it becomes a problem.
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