Rear wheel bearing gone bad

[Kinarfi]

My right rear wheel bearing has gone bad and made lots of horrid noises before I got it into the garage, I'm trying to break the 36mm nut so I can get at everything, but so far, all I have broken is my 1/2" breaker bar, I guess 6' of extension pipe was a bit too much - busted the 1/2" square piece, banged my wife's shin and bent a lug bolt that I'll have to replace. Called a friend and he came over with his 3/4" drive set and broke the nut loose while I stood on the brakes with 4 X 4 and lockers. Any advanced advice for what I'm going to find, I'm done with it for the day and going to go play with the grand kids.

Kinarfi

[rocmoc]

Look at my bearing replacement post. I included a youtube video of R&R the bearing on a BMW. Looks & pulls almost exactly the same. Same process nearly but not as tight fit so everything comes apart & goes back together much easier. I will tell you Kinarfi from watching your rear wheels when we were out riding, your hubs are going to be worn. The bearings will come out with your fingers and will install the same way. I Lock-Tight mine as Lenny recommended but you will not be able to get the neg camber out that you now have. Will take new hubs or machining. The bearings are made the same as the BMW bearings and are not normally the weak link IMHO. I kept my old ones as they were still in good shape when I replaced mine. Good Luck!

rocmoc n AZ

[Kinarfi]

Look at my bearing replacement post. I included a youtube video of R&R the bearing on a BMW. Looks & pulls almost exactly the same. Same process nearly but not as tight fit so everything comes apart & goes back together much easier. I will tell you Kinarfi from watching your rear wheels when we were out riding, your hubs are going to be worn. The bearings will come out with your fingers and will install the same way. I Lock-Tight mine as Lenny recommended but you will not be able to get the neg camber out that you now have. Will take new hubs or machining. The bearings are made the same as the BMW bearings and are not normally the weak link IMHO. I kept my old ones as they were still in good shape when I replaced mine. Good Luck!

rocmoc n AZ

Thanks Rocmoc, put a reference to your post in the Technical Article Post

[Kinarfi]

Bearing is out, , the hub looks great! pretty sure I didn't spin the bearing, broke? definitely!!! Any one know the part number for this so I can order from a parts store? They don't seam to like 65 X 35 X 35 and the only number I can read on the bearing are 355620K and that doesn't work for any either. The photo is the first of 4

Kinarfi

[rocmoc]

The bearing isn't a standard size. Lenny & myself could not find a source. You will have to purchase from No Limit in TX or Silverbullet in AZ. I got mine from No Limits & Quiq got his from Silverbullet. Price is king IMHO. The seal you can order from a good seal vendor using the numbers on the seal. The shipping on the seal cost as much as the seal.

If you had to use a puller/press to remove & install the bearing, your hug is good. If the bearing came out easy, the hub is worn. You can not go by looks as the tolerances are very close.

rocmoc n AZ

[Guest Lenny]

Go to your bearing supplier and get a tube of Loctite that is for locking bearings or shafts into their bore. It's not going to lock 1/32"s of play but it should do fine on 2 or 3 thousands. I've never tried but if it is as good as their other products, it should work good. I would replace with tapered roller bearings as they should last you forever. I have probably 1500 miles on mine and they are as snug as the day I put them in and I abuse my Trooper a lot. I beleive SilverBullet has tapered ones but not sure if No Limits does.

PS, Loctite both the inner and outer race but first get all surfaces super clean with Dawn dish soap a couple of times and rince well. Dawn won't delute the oils like a solvent will that leaves a film but it breaks it down so there is no trace left.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

Those flat sided balls are cracked and broken balls, not ground down.

Got my bearings and got them in and ready to go for a ride tomorrow, hopefully for a few days up above Mill Hollow Reservoir near Woodland.

N 40 28 39 W 111 07 18 and do some exploring of roads I haven't been on yet, in beautiful country.

[rocmoc]

Man Kinarfi, ya got to stop breaking your b*******s. LOL!

[Kinarfi]

Man Kinarfi, ya got to stop breaking your b*******s. LOL!

It's the Trooper that's bustin' my b*******s!!!!!! and a few other moderators and drivers tooo

[silverbullet]

silverbullet

Hope every thing worked out.Those Joyner bearings are just not made for our use.The double tapered roller bearing should hold up for a long time.They were made for front wheel

drive cars.Jeff

Thanks for your business

Jose

[Kinarfi]

Man Kinarfi, ya got to stop breaking your b*******s. LOL!

Also, it's not the busting that's so bad but losing my bearings, where am I? what am I doing here? who am I?????

Thanks Silverbullet, you done goooood!

[Kinarfi]

Here I go again the left side rear bearing has gone bad too. Maybe I ought to just buy the socket so I don't have to rent it. Already have the bearing thanks to Silverbullet.

If you start hearing strange knocking noises from the rear, jack it up and check the play.

Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

Here I go again the left side rear bearing has gone bad too. Maybe I ought to just buy the socket so I don't have to rent it. Already have the bearing thanks to Silverbullet.

If you start hearing strange knocking noises from the rear, jack it up and check the play.

Kinarfi

With the tapered roller bearings in your rear, you should be able to forget that problem for ever. Speaking of slop noises coming from the rear, I working on a way to tighten the cv hubs joint with the diff output shafts. If what I'm doing works, there wil not be any play in the joint. I now have all the clunking and rattle noises out of my front, except for a bit coming from the loose cv hubs, thanks to upgrading the heims joints with heavier and sealed heims joints that I can grease. I'll post what I did when I get a chance.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

Here I go again the left side rear bearing has gone bad too. Maybe I ought to just buy the socket so I don't have to rent it. Already have the bearing thanks to Silverbullet.

If you start hearing strange knocking noises from the rear, jack it up and check the play.

Kinarfi

Sure is easier the second time around, got in fixed and ready to go, so, my best half is going to Disney Land with my sister in law until Sat., so I'm gonna go camping and riding.

Should someone want to come visit and go for riding or just want to see where I'm playing, go here, share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0EaqY4Orr1mg3zFBzPdK3tDviJ17FEDOq

Kinarfi

[Kinarfi]

Sure is easier the second time around, got in fixed and ready to go, so, my best half is going to Disney Land with my sister in law until Sat., so I'm gonna go camping and riding.

Should someone want to come visit and go for riding or just want to see where I'm playing, go here, share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0EaqY4Orr1mg3zFBzPdK3tDviJ17FEDOq

Kinarfi

Another thing that I found out is that the seals called for in the manual are FB65X42X8 and FB65X45X8.

The first number is incorrect and does not fit, at least in mine, I needed was a 62x42x8 which has a 224250 number that can be cross referenced, LISTEN IN Silverbullet and other distributors.

The item numbers are 3 and 32 in the manual.

[MauyThai1]

With the tapered roller bearings in your rear, you should be able to forget that problem for ever. Speaking of slop noises coming from the rear, I working on a way to tighten the cv hubs joint with the diff output shafts. If what I'm doing works, there wil not be any play in the joint. I now have all the clunking and rattle noises out of my front, except for a bit coming from the loose cv hubs, thanks to upgrading the heims joints with heavier and sealed heims joints that I can grease. I'll post what I did when I get a chance.

Lenny

Lenny where did you get the heims joint upgrades, I would like to get rid of the noise in mine. Robert.

[Guest Lenny]

Lenny where did you get the heims joint upgrades, I would like to get rid of the noise in mine. Robert.

Give me a couple of days and I'll post the whole process I did with pics.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

I pulled the bearing and it looked good, but it did have wobble while mounted. Got rollers coming. As I was trying to get the CV off the differential, I was having a more difficult time than usual, no success at all, then I resorted to an old trick I used in high school. I have had other ask me how to get it off and I think this may as good you can get with out special tools or pickle forks or big special slide hammers. You hook one end of a 5 foot (or longer) chain around the small part and stand back and leave just a little slack in the chain and then yank on the chain, popped it off on the second snap. You need to be able to drop the grab hook on the passenger side to get past the locker mechanism.

Kinarfi

[rocmoc]

Kinarfi, roller bearings are not going to make a difference! It is the HUBs, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ

[silverbullet]

Kinarfi, roller bearings are not going to make a difference! It is the HUBs, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ

silverbullet Hi Rocmoc

Jeff said he thought it was bearing.We will see when he sends me the old one.I will let you know i asked him and he said it was the bearing .I will know better when he sends them back we have sold over 100 bearings up to now and never had a problum.

Jose

[rocmoc]

SilverBullet, need to start working on a Hub upgrade for us. Either new Hub of better material or a upgrade like Lenny's. Jeff's problem is the same as mine. Well at least one of them, LOL! I saw what was going on with his Trooper when I was following him at Hanksville and knew it was a matter of time.

rocmoc n AZ

[Kinarfi]

When I pulled the bearing yesterday, it looked fine and the axle shaft had been locktited and you could see it done it's job on the inner race. The outer race had not bonded/locktited to the hub housing and did slide out easily, it was greasy between the hub and the bearing and maybe I could see a little polishing from the bearing turning in the hub. I will do a better job of cleaning oils and from hub and bearings this time so the locktite can do it's job, the hub appears to NOT be worn.

The wobble I had with the new bearing was maybe a 1/4 travel side to side at the top of the tire, not really enough to be overly concerned with, but the other bearing had none, I'm hoping the rollers have none also. I'll take some photos today.

Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

When I pulled the bearing yesterday, it looked fine and the axle shaft had been locktited and you could see it done it's job on the inner race. The outer race had not bonded/locktited to the hub housing and did slide out easily, it was greasy between the hub and the bearing and maybe I could see a little polishing from the bearing turning in the hub. I will do a better job of cleaning oils and from hub and bearings this time so the locktite can do it's job, the hub appears to NOT be worn.

The wobble I had with the new bearing was maybe a 1/4 travel side to side at the top of the tire, not really enough to be overly concerned with, but the other bearing had none, I'm hoping the rollers have none also. I'll take some photos today.

Kinarfi

I think the problem is in the quality control of the hubs. Kinarfi said his bearings fit tight into the hub. I suspect that the boring operation on the hub during manufacturing isn't being held to tight enough tolerances. If a bit oversize, and that only needs to be .0005", then the outter race of the bearing can move. If it can move, it can wear on the hub along with hammer against it, making matters worse. Loctite makes a special locker to hold bearings with loose tolerances but this would probably only work in very slight looseness case. Even then I would use it anyway as it can't hurt and possibly help. A hub with an oversize bore can only be replaced or bored and sleeved back down to size. In the sleeving case, you would first open up the bore say about 1/8" od. Then tightly press in a sleeve and machine the inside to the correct bore so the bearings pressed in correctly. I suspect it would cost about $200-$300 bucks to get 4 hubs done at a machine shop and probably half that for one. Probably about 3-4 hours for four if you take your time and get it just right.

Lenny

[rocmoc]

The bearing should not come out with your fingers. You should have to use a puller of some sort. I had one hub exactly the same way as Kinarfi. I put the new bearing in and have been running it.

What also will happen is it will give you neg. camber. Walk around to the rear of your Trooper and if you have neg. camber, your hubs are wearing. When I pulled my bearing, they were fine but I put new in anyway. The bearings & design of our hubs is the same as what is used on BMW cars only BMW uses HIGH quality material. They also run the same bearings as the Trooper does stock with a min of 40,000+ miles. We used ball bearing in our race cars instead of roller for less rolling resistance with no problem.

rocmoc n AZ

[Kinarfi]

Meant to post this earlier, when I put the new ROLLER bearing in, they would slide in and out by hand as rocmoc warned, so I took an awl and put several small pits in the hub at the bottom and at the back to force the bearing up and forward, put plenty of yellow loctite for bearings one and then used a bolt and washer to pull the bearing in and when I put the snap ring in, the was room for a .009 shim between the bearing and the snap ring, so I added loctite there too. Hope it all holds, or I'll be doing all over again. Had so photos, but the hard drive failed and I lost lots of stuff that I never needed in the first place. Oh Well be happy

[rocmoc]

Just put here together and have fun. I am going into the second year since I replaced the bearing and became aware of the Hub issue. Run her until the wheels come off, LOL !

rocmoc n AZ

[Kinarfi]

Just put here together and have fun. I am going into the second year since I replaced the bearing and became aware of the Hub issue. Run her until the wheels come off, LOL !

rocmoc n AZ

I'm sure getting good advice lately, run it!!!

Just put one of my ball bearing from the back in the front. So far, I have heard a popping noise from every bearing as it goes bad, the first 2 looked like they had go dry and gotten wet and rusted, the last 2 were still full of grease, but they made that popping noise. I wonder if the bearing is starting to stick and it's the race slipping in the hub.

Anyway, heading up to Soapstone basin tomorrow morning for a few days. 66fastcarss s going to meeting up with me for a day of riding too.

[rocmoc]

Wish I was meeting you also for some fun ! We'll spend more time with you in your area next summer.

rocmoc n AZ

[Kinarfi]

Wish I was meeting you also for some fun ! We'll spend more time with you in your area next summer.

rocmoc n AZ

looking forward to giving you a guided tour

[rocmoc]

And I will gladly follow !

rocmoc n AZ