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T2 1100 Winch relays and crappy brakes


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I'm new on this forum, so please forgive me if there's been a thread on this subject before. I did do a search and have found refs to other threads, but haven't found a reply to this issue.

First off: Crappy brakes. Noticed that the pads ony contact about two thirds of the actual disc width area, and what's with the two caliper deal on the back wheel??? Anyone found a caliper replacement, perhaps from a motorcycle or small car that might fit and give the brakes some extra bite?

Winch issue: Doesn't work. Traced the power to the octastyle relay above the battery, which is fused. A new one is on the way from Joyner-usa.com ([email protected], contact bryan). Is there anything else I should change or be worried about winch-wise?

We´re volunteers and use this in central america to reach communities that can only be reached on horseback or rugged vehicle, so we need a reliable winch.

Thanks for all your help!

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Guest Lenny

The extra caliiper on the rear is for the parking brake. The brakes arn't the best. On mine I added a second caliper at each wheel for my regular braking which helped a lot.. Relative easy to do by welding on an extra brake mount plate at each wheel. Just T the original line at each caliper and the master cylinder handles the extra volumn ok. Next time you replace a winch solenoid, goto ebay and find one that is rated for 600 amps or so. Anytime you replace an electrical part, try to replace it with an after market one.

Pictures and description of my brtake setup are on this forum. just search


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Ahhh. Good advice.

There must be a better brake setup. More brake calipers doesn't add up to me. At least a double pot caliper up front would improve braking tremendously I would think. I'll do some investigating and let everyone know what I come up with.

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Thanks Kinarfi, I did pick that up on another thread.

Lenny, a question if you don't mind.

I've ordered new gauges and sending units from joyner - only because: finding quality gauges that don't cost $200 is near impossible, and because of the oil and water temp lights. I'm guessing both lights are tied into the sending units, but don't know. Does anyone else know? Can we use aftermarket gauges and still have use of the stock warning lights?

And, is there some way to tie in the handbrakes to the regular brakes and have use of both for parking and regular driving?

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Guest Lenny

I beleive that the oil warning light receives something like a 0 to 5 volt signal from the sensor that is on the rear left side of the engine. More then likely it sends 5 volts when there is no oil pressure and 0 volts when there is proper pressure. An oil pressure gauge is going to respond in the same way. I would put a volt meter on the oil pressure sensor output to see what the DC voltage does from not running to running. Then get a gauge that works in that voltage range. The water temp gauge would be the same but may read different. thus maybe at 0 volts it is cold and at 5 volts it is warm. Keep in mond that the sensors may be sending out only say 1.5 volts to 4.5 volts and not the whole 5 volt range. This would be normal in most situations. The gauge may have a pot in it to adjust it to the range it receives. Kinarfi may know if they do or not.

Yes, there is a valve that allows the parking brake to work with the regular brakes. Rocmoc is probably the best for that information. Keep in mind that by doubling up on the calipers I'm doubling up on the brake pad surface area and the pressure on each caliper is the same as stock the way I have it hooked up. This means that by doubling up my calipers, I have doubled my braking power. That is just the way it feels too. Initially as stock I always felt the brakes weren't stopping me very good. Was always consious of the lack of braking power. Now, it never crosses my mind, it stops fine now. Do I need more? No, don't feel that way. Would l like to have a bit more? Ya, but really don't feel it is necessary as I stop good in all situations now.


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I used an Autometer aftermarket on the oil pressure and obviously lost the idiot light sensor because of that. I was able to go directly into the block with the adapters that came in the Autometer gauge and I didn't even have to use metric adapters which shocked me. So, it was pretty easy to say the least. On the water temp I went Autometer and used a Renegade housing to mate to the block and tapped in the temp sensor on the side of it. I left the stock sensor that goes in the engine and just clipped the wires going to the gauge. You will have to run a new wire back to the Autometer sensor as the stock wire doesn't work. So, you can definitely do it for the water temp and I feel much better having that gauge on which is also bigger and easier to read. On the oil pressure you could probably wire it up and have the warning light work but I haven't gotten around to it.

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