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Installing Turbo


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I don't see where it makes any differance where you put the oil back in at. Valve cover should be fine I would think. You could always drill and tap a hole in the block just above the oil pan where you can get at it easily too.

Lenny

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The kit I bought has turned out to be anything but a kit. Turbo compressor inlet and outlet smaller than intercooler piping supplied in the "kit". So there's no way to hook it up. Of course no one in town has anything to adapt it with. Then the straight pipe with the flange welded into it for the BOV is 2.25", the intercooler in/outlet are something over 2.25" but less than 2.50", and all the piping and connectors are 2". But wait, turbo compressor inlet is 1.75" and outlet is 1.5". Got a lot of cool s#*t, but none of it works together. I wish I had it to purchase all over again. I would buy the individual components myself. Then I'd know they would fit.

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The kit I bought has turned out to be anything but a kit. Turbo compressor inlet and outlet smaller than intercooler piping supplied in the "kit". So there's no way to hook it up. Of course no one in town has anything to adapt it with. Then the straight pipe with the flange welded into it for the BOV is 2.25", the intercooler in/outlet are something over 2.25" but less than 2.50", and all the piping and connectors are 2". But wait, turbo compressor inlet is 1.75" and outlet is 1.5". Got a lot of cool s#*t, but none of it works together. I wish I had it to purchase all over again. I would buy the individual components myself. Then I'd know they would fit.

do we need intercooler trail riding ? thats more air space to fill. big pipe more space to get lag. got myparts hardware an junkyard i'm not going to car show i'm going to hills an mudd. your turbo is the same size as mine an water cooled just my though, dedub
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The kit I bought has turned out to be anything but a kit. Turbo compressor inlet and outlet smaller than intercooler piping supplied in the "kit". So there's no way to hook it up. Of course no one in town has anything to adapt it with. Then the straight pipe with the flange welded into it for the BOV is 2.25", the intercooler in/outlet are something over 2.25" but less than 2.50", and all the piping and connectors are 2". But wait, turbo compressor inlet is 1.75" and outlet is 1.5". Got a lot of cool s#*t, but none of it works together. I wish I had it to purchase all over again. I would buy the individual components myself. Then I'd know they would fit.

What/where did you get this kit I'm curious?

Id be mad if i got lot of stuff that don't match up as well

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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The intercooler will make the equivalant differance as adding as much as 2 to 3 pounds of boost. I don't know how the turbos hook things up, mine is supercharged, but if the blowoff is after the turbo but before the intercooler, the volume after that is cooled for the most part. You can get twice as many air molecules in that volume at 100 degrees as you can at 200 degrees. This benifit more then makes up for the increased volume. If there is a lag increase, It should only be right off idle before the turbo spools up.

On matching the tubes, try a muffler shop. Many of them have ther ability to swedge tubing from one size to another for slipping over or into another piece.

Lenny

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The intercooler will make the equivalant differance as adding as much as 2 to 3 pounds of boost. I don't know how the turbos hook things up, mine is supercharged, but if the blowoff is after the turbo but before the intercooler, the volume after that is cooled for the most part. You can get twice as many air molecules in that volume at 100 degrees as you can at 200 degrees. This benifit more then makes up for the increased volume. If there is a lag increase, It should only be right off idle before the turbo spools up.

On matching the tubes, try a muffler shop. Many of them have ther ability to swedge tubing from one size to another for slipping over or into another piece.

Lenny

thanks lenny for info .know i have mine going i'll put intercooler on thanks dedub
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Hey guys, going with the intercooler was decided based on trying to increase the density of the air charge, like Lenny said. Do we really need it, no. But to get the most out of the turbo set up, I decided to go that route. Plus, as I understand it, you can run higher boost pressures with a cooler air charge as the hotter and higher the pressure in the cylinder, the more prone to early ignition. The real benefit of cooling probably depends on style of driving.

This is the "universal turbo kit" on eBay that says its for Joyners. Like I said, wish I had just bought the items individually myself instead of falling for easy ideas of the "kit". It didn't even include the items that it was supposed to. Aside from the pipe size issues, it was supposed to include a boost controller, instead it had 3 boost gauges.....what am I gonna do with three boost gauges? Sell them I guess. Also, if anyone is considering this deal, skip it. Things I know now that I wish I knew before - its just a T15, oil cooled only, turbo and universal intercooler kit from CX racing. You can buy directly from them for half the price. Thankfully I did bargain the price down so I didn't get ripped off too badly that way, but I'm still sinking money into it buying all the little bits and pieces to make everything work together.

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i turned boost up to 10 psi it didn't like it 7 psi works good.dedub

Did you get pre-ignition or what did it do. Possible it started running lean. If that is the case, you could try a little bigger injector. I run 26 pound injectors in mine and I get about 10 pounds of boost maybe a bit more. Do you have an aftercooler yet.

Lenny

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Did you get pre-ignition or what did it do. Possible it started running lean. If that is the case, you could try a little bigger injector. I run 26 pound injectors in mine and I get about 10 pounds of boost maybe a bit more. Do you have an aftercooler yet.

Lenny

no c ooler yet lean i think tries to die acts like detinate.or run backward
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no c ooler yet lean i think tries to die acts like detinate.or run backward

I have an extra set of 4 injectors that I was planning to sell if you are interested. They are reconditioned Bosh type III 19 lb injectors, skinny body style. It was $100 for a set of 8 or $60 - 80 for a set of 4. Flow matched, rebuilt with new parts. Let me know if interested (or anyone else is).

My install updates as of this weekend.....see picture :(

post-1532-0-88778100-1352686661_thumb.jpg

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So.... Going back to the oil lines, returning it to the valve cover doesn't work. The oil having to go up hill on exiting the turbo is too much back pressure for oil to overcome. it starts blowing past the seals and out the exhaust. Looks like I will have to put it back to the oil pan and let gravity help.

When you say drill and tap into the oil pan, is the pan thick enough to cut enough threads into? What kind of fitting did you use, NPT x Barb?

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So.... Going back to the oil lines, returning it to the valve cover doesn't work. The oil having to go up hill on exiting the turbo is too much back pressure for oil to overcome. it starts blowing past the seals and out the exhaust. Looks like I will have to put it back to the oil pan and let gravity help.

When you say drill and tap into the oil pan, is the pan thick enough to cut enough threads into? What kind of fitting did you use, NPT x Barb?

No the oil pan isn't thick enough. I would rather drill and tap the block just above the oil pan. Maybe look at the pictures of the engine block to determine where you can drill. I don't think there is anything you can hit that is a problem. The main thing is to not drill where the cross webs are that the crank bearings set in. The other thing I would condsider is to drill on the passenger side of the engine. The crank is going down on this side and would tend to suck the oil into the pan. The other side where the crank is going up may be carrying oil up with it and caus a pressure area. Contack Casey at JMC or the new Joyner distriblutor and see if they can give you any guidance. Maybe someone on here has an engine with the oil pan off so they can checl for you. You can't hook it up to places where there is oil pressure like where the oil pressure sensor is. Just thinking out loud here.

Lenny

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call me i can alk you through the oil return line issue. i played with mine a lot even went as far as to using a oil scavage pump... nothing worked. you have to go as strait down as pos. np hard bends. also if you tapped into the pressure sending unit try to find a restrictor for the oil feed side. you inly need a very small amount of oil to drop directly on the turbine shaft! if you "bath" it you can ruin the turbo! like i said call me and i can walk you through it.

Josh

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Thanks everyone for the input.

Turbo mounting location is lower than the valve cover. I cut the cat off and welded the turbo flange on there, so it's basically at the end off the stock header. I have the oil pressure/supply tee'd off of the oil pressure sensor. I was pretty hesitant about popping a hole in the block like Lenny mentioned previously. Thanks to Kinarfi's picture I feel a lot better about getting in there, so big thanks!

goindeep, I'll give you a call. I'm anxious to hear what you worked out.

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Here's another thought, Pop a Freeze plug and attach your oil return there. It's probably thick enough to drill and tap or braze or weld.

Also, I'm not sure how much heat comes off the exhaust manifold, but I have added a shield, mostly for my shocks and the limit strap, and moved my pressure sensor away from it via a rubber hose, it is now located between the valve cover and my flipped intake manifold.

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I'm quite sure that freeze plugs typically go into the water jacket. The freeze plug is to help the block from freezing by popping out before the block cracks. Some plugs however are used to cap off the end of bore holes like the ones used in the head for the camshaft but these are typically blocked by the camshaft end.

Lenny

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I thought I saw some freeze plugs in the block while looking at the photos, but yes, a freeze plug for the water jacket would NOT work.

You're right, no freeze plugs in the block, if I was doing this, I would redrill and tap the mount hole that's not used near the clutch but not break through the block and then drill a smaller hole through the wall into the block.

Also, I already have a return oil port in my pan, don't you guys have the same? and wouldn't that work with a TEE.

http://news.webshots...104110397YaTyES for mount hole and hose

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that line will not work. dont try it. that particular port is below the oil level! you can have no restrictions in the oil return! it is gravity fed and must free flow or oil will back uip in the turbo and blow out the compressor and exhaust housings. drill the pan just below the flange. pipe fitings are tapered and will seal in the pan if you are really worried put a little gray silicone around the fitting....

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