Quantcast
Jump to content

Installing Turbo


Recommended Posts

Called goindeep and he is hooking me up with a better exhaust manifold. The mounting location is killing me, with the new manifold I will be able to mount the turbo in the correct orientation to get the oil port pointed down. Then I can put it into the oil pan as suggested. Can not believe oil return has been this much of a pain!

Hope I can get this thing together and going in time for my trip! One step forward, THREE steps back.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Called goindeep and he is hooking me up with a better exhaust manifold. The mounting location is killing me, with the new manifold I will be able to mount the turbo in the correct orientation to get the oil port pointed down. Then I can put it into the oil pan as suggested. Can not believe oil return has been this much of a pain!

Hope I can get this thing together and going in time for my trip! One step forward, THREE steps back.....

his maifold work good he done nice job on mine.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HUGE HUGE PROPS TO JOSH @ NO LIMITZ (goindeep). In two days he made and shipped an exhaust manifold to me! Talk about putting a rush on it and helping a guy out in a bind, thanks a million.

Now with the new manifold I was able to locate the turbo where it needed to be, run the oil lines where they need to be, and eliminate a number of other problems I was trying to contend with. The manifold mounted up with no problems, bolt holes and all. Everything is hooked up with the exception of intercooler piping. Need a couple more hours tomorrow and it should be ready to go to the exhaust shop Monday morning for a quick downpipe fab and I will be rocking.......provided nothing else goes wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HUGE HUGE PROPS TO JOSH @ NO LIMITZ (goindeep). In two days he made and shipped an exhaust manifold to me! Talk about putting a rush on it and helping a guy out in a bind, thanks a million.

Now with the new manifold I was able to locate the turbo where it needed to be, run the oil lines where they need to be, and eliminate a number of other problems I was trying to contend with. The manifold mounted up with no problems, bolt holes and all. Everything is hooked up with the exception of intercooler piping. Need a couple more hours tomorrow and it should be ready to go to the exhaust shop Monday morning for a quick downpipe fab and I will be rocking.......provided nothing else goes wrong.

Yeah Josh do really do good job

Sent from my XT912 using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It lives!!!..... Sort of. Test ran it today and turbo isn't spitting oil. It barely ran until I cut back the fuel with the EJK since I put the 19lb injectors in. Don't have all the inter cooler piping hooked up so the compressor wasn't pumping air in. Taking it to the exhaust shop tomorrow for a down pipe and a custom bend intercooler pipe to tie it all together

post-1532-0-09848500-1353300105_thumb.jpg

post-1532-0-00312900-1353300157_thumb.jpg

post-1532-0-55408600-1353300176_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Merchant Mariner, I was looking at your gallery and your snorkel has 2 wires coming off it, what are they for?

The two wires use to be for an electric motor driven "supercharger". It mounted in the boot below the air filter and had a switch that mounted by the pedal. When you opened throttle about 3/4 to full, it would turn the fan on. The gain was minimal at best. The AFR gauge barely registered a change when it kicked in. Besides that, it burnt up. Guess I was spending to much time at open throttle, haha. But I ditched all that now and recommend against monkeying around with it. Not worth it when it did work and didn't work all that long

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The two wires use to be for an electric motor driven "supercharger". It mounted in the boot below the air filter and had a switch that mounted by the pedal. When you opened throttle about 3/4 to full, it would turn the fan on. The gain was minimal at best. The AFR gauge barely registered a change when it kicked in. Besides that, it burnt up. Guess I was spending to much time at open throttle, haha. But I ditched all that now and recommend against monkeying around with it. Not worth it when it did work and didn't work all that long

hows turbo working
Link to comment
Share on other sites

turbo is in and running. still needs tuning in. On stock injectors with the EJK tuned all the way up its too lean on full boost. Running the 19lb inj. I'm having a hard time with it running too rich. Getting fueling and boost to kick in at the same time is proving difficult. Even at idle with EJK cut all the way back the 19lb injectors are running 10.9 on the AFR gauge. So when I start giving it throttle I have to be real slow and feather it or it goes so rich I loose power and belch black smoke. When the turbo boost kicks in its like a rocket. Also need to get a different wastegate. Stock internal actuator has a lifting press around 13~15 psi. so I'm taking it easy now until I can get an adjustable actuator and get boost pressure down.

Still a work in progress, but at least there is progress now. Dedub, how is yours working out for you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried backing off the fuel pressure. You should be able to go all the way back to 40# to 45#. If you get too low, it won't atomize properly. Scott with Unleashed Motorsports in Cottonwood, AZ did things different. He used the stock injectors with his turbos but instead would double up his fuel pumps in series so he could develope 130# - 140# or so to get enough fuel. Even though he made it work for him I couldn't get it to work for myself. I don't really like the approach as injectors shouldn't be used over about 75# or they become unreliable in their volume output. In his case, going up about 2-1/2 times stock pressures doesn't give 2-1/2 times the volume because as pressure rises, injector flow efficiency decreases.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will try dropping the pressure, thanks for the suggestion. Not keen on doubling the fuel pumps and pressure. I know the injectors are not designed to run at those pressures and I fear that would shorten service life drastically. Just seems like asking for trouble.

Took the T2 out for some mountain thrashing the other day. It did alright, but fueling not being totally dialed in lead to a lot of stalling when rock crawling with it. Also developed an oil leak at the pan where I put the return oil fitting in. I have tried JB weld around the fitting and hi temp silicon. Still starts leaking when I start bouncing and jarring around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

turbo is in and running. still needs tuning in. On stock injectors with the EJK tuned all the way up its too lean on full boost. Running the 19lb inj. I'm having a hard time with it running too rich. Getting fueling and boost to kick in at the same time is proving difficult. Even at idle with EJK cut all the way back the 19lb injectors are running 10.9 on the AFR gauge. So when I start giving it throttle I have to be real slow and feather it or it goes so rich I loose power and belch black smoke. When the turbo boost kicks in its like a rocket. Also need to get a different wastegate. Stock internal actuator has a lifting press around 13~15 psi. so I'm taking it easy now until I can get an adjustable actuator and get boost pressure down.

Still a work in progress, but at least there is progress now. Dedub, how is yours working out for you?

I'm wondering what turbo are you using? The Wastegate on turbo is set to 13-15 psi?

I have been looking for a weather sealed boost controller set up.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YOUR OIL LEAK i put washer on that fit tight on brass fiting then oring on that with high temp silcone. let dry no problem no leak. as far my turbo working perfect 7 psi with stock injectors,

I'm wondering what turbo are you using? The Wastegate on turbo is set to 13-15 psi?

I have been looking for a weather sealed boost controller set up.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the tip on the oil leak. I will give that a try, somethings gotta work. I'm about to weld a fitting in cause I'm tired of fighting with it.

I'm using a T15. It seems tiny, but so far I'm happy with it. All the performance maps and ratings on it indicated it was the right size for our little 1100cc engine. As for the boost controller, I am just using a needle valve. All you need is to be able to restrict the air flow going to the sensing side of the diaphragm in the wastegate actuator. A needle valve is a good metering valve. However, and you probably already know this, boost can only be raised above its lowest opening pressure with the use of a boost controller. For me to lower my boost I need an actuator with a weaker spring that opens lower. Then I can increase boost if needed from its lowest point, say a spring that opens at 6 psi and I use the controller to increase to 10 psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ARE YOU USING AN FMU ? or what are you using for fuel control , also do you still have the stock fuel pump ? I have considering building a turbo kit for mine .

EJK is an FMU add on module, I'm wanting one with vacuum port and a weather sealed boost controller then ill move forward with turbo after i finish my project silverado resurrection

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EJK is an FMU add on module,

Ditto.

I think the vacuum ported controller is the best way to go. I can only get the fueling so close with the standard one. It is either too rich or lean until the boost or fueling catch up to one another. Have you found an FMU with the vacuum port?

As for doing the turbo kit, I did mine myself. For my 2 cents I would suggest a TRUE bolt on kit unless you are looking to do a lot of fabrication and modification yourself. Knowing what I know now, and with a lot of help from everyone on here, if I had it do over again I could probably do it cheaper, faster, and better than what I ended up with. A key component missing from any of the universal kits is the exhaust manifold. The best money you can spend while trying to put your kit together is to buy a manifold from Josh at No Limitz (aka - goindeep). If I had it to do over again I would probably get on the phone with him and see what he can do for you for a full bolt up kit specified to your needs . I ended up making own kit, bonus being I customized everything the way I wanted it. Downside is I spent almost as much as buy a kit specifically for the T2 and it took a lot of work to get all the right components and fabrication done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fab work is not a problem, I have my own shop where I retore and build hot rods and race cars. I also have a job as a union mechanic and have worked at honda,chevy,Mercedes Benz dealers as a tech.

I was actually thinking of just buying a turbo and not the kit, then either doing a log style exhaust or building a header

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto.

I think the vacuum ported controller is the best way to go. I can only get the fueling so close with the standard one. It is either too rich or lean until the boost or fueling catch up to one another. Have you found an FMU with the vacuum port?

As for doing the turbo kit, I did mine myself. For my 2 cents I would suggest a TRUE bolt on kit unless you are looking to do a lot of fabrication and modification yourself. Knowing what I know now, and with a lot of help from everyone on here, if I had it do over again I could probably do it cheaper, faster, and better than what I ended up with. A key component missing from any of the universal kits is the exhaust manifold. The best money you can spend while trying to put your kit together is to buy a manifold from Josh at No Limitz (aka - goindeep). If I had it to do over again I would probably get on the phone with him and see what he can do for you for a full bolt up kit specified to your needs . I ended up making own kit, bonus being I customized everything the way I wanted it. Downside is I spent almost as much as buy a kit specifically for the T2 and it took a lot of work to get all the right components and fabrication done.

DIDN'T you get the fuelcontroler from gonedeep with vacumn port?///
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By lonerider98
      At the end of last year my Coleman UT 500 will not go into reverse. I can hold it over toward the reverse to move it nut it won't lock into reverse. Anyone have this problem? Winter is just about over and going to have to get this resolved. Thank You!
    • By Hugh
      My 2018 Hisun sector crew engine cut off after about 15 minutes run. There is no indicator of what is wrong, no error code just die and won't restart until it cool down. I notice that the fan is not running but the temp indicator is on low temp, no overheat indicator. I checked the radiator fluid, it is cool to touch.
      Cooling fans are working, I can hear it running once awhile if I can get the engine warm up enough.  Thank you for all the help.
       
      Hugh
    • By MJG
      Hello, 
      I found an 08 Renegade for sale and looking to purchase it.  I haven’t heard too much about these machines and any insight would be much appreciated.  Are they good machines?
    • By Kalyla Jackson
      Hey all!
      I'm on a mission to buy my first UTV soundbar as a gift for my dad. I'm aiming for something that offers great sound quality without breaking the bank – my budget is around $250. Right now, I'm considering options like ecoxgear, kemimoto, and boss.
      Does anyone have experience with these brands or specific models that you'd recommend? Any advice or suggestions would be super appreciated!
      Thanks in advance for your help!



    • By aefron88
      This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
      This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
      Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
      The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
      In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
      I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
      Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
      The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
      The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
      From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil

      The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.



×
×
  • Create New...