charlie

opinion on bearings

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I am sorry for this post I know there is tons of response on bearings I have read most of it. But what I am looking for is a simple responce and opinion. Im am not great with fabricating or have the time that some of you have to do things you have done to make the trooper better

Ok my front wheel bearing are loos there tapered bearings from JMC i have talked to Casey I know there is suppose to be a little play it is what it is. I put red lock tight in the hub when I put the new bearings in.There is no noise from them but how the F+":> do they keep ketting loose and should I replace them is there a simple fix I was thinking the Hub that has the splines and the wheels studs might be sloppy

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This is a problem I was concerned with way back when. The hubs are made from too soft material. Lenny had the best solution but you have to be a mechianist or pay someone. I chose to purchase spare parts when I could fine them. I replaced bearings, use red locktite but it never really worked. I don't agree with Casey on this one, loose means they will slop around and get even looser. I was wishing for a great aftermarket replacement hub but no one ever came forward. IMHO this is one of the greatest weakness in the Trooper, the hubs. Maybe the new ones are made of better stuff!

rocmoc n AZ/Mmexico

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thanks Rocmoc and when you mean HUB you mean wear the bearing goes correct no were the axle splines line up with the outer hub with Lugstuds

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red loctite is NOT tough enough, I researched this and you need the green loctite that I recommended in one of my other posts.

I would recommend that you pull the bearings out and take an awl and go around the inside of the hub putting 100 little punches, evenly spaced, around the cavity. This creates a surface that will hold the bearing and the loctite will fill the space between the bearing and the hub. The yellow loctite has a very high value for this purpose.

When you put the bearing in, after the punches, you WILL have to force it in!

PS, you do not have to hit the awl very hard, just enough to leave a mark

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so before the yellow lock tight should I replace the bearings I hear no noise they are just loose

Hold them in you hand and spin them, if they sound and feel good, they probably are, usually the play is between the bearing and the hub, not a bad bearing.

Every time I get my wheels off the ground, I wiggle them side to side at the top to see how much play I have, I have had any for a year now after using the loctite.

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/3004-wheel-bearings-again/?p=17500

OOPs it's green loctite,

What I do is pull the seals on the bearings, pack them with wheel bearing grease, put the seals back on, clean the outer surface of the bearing and hub, put the loctite on the surface of the hub, put the bearing in, add some more loctite, just enough to see that there are no voids and let it sit and cure, an hour or so and then mount it all back up, but let it cure for 8 hours or over night before take it out to beat the crap out of it.

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Yes, I have tapered bearings that I got from Casey at JMC Motors. I have had the ball bearings break the balls in half, that's when you can really hear ugliness happening in the bearings.

Did NOT use any prep, just thoroughly clean and degrease with brake cleaning fluid on a cloth for the bearing and good wipe down on the hub.

Seals are actually pretty easy to remove, just do it gently with small tools, If you put a dent in the seal, just flatten it back out gently, I packed some extra grease around the bearings after they were mounted and more in the back side of the seals too, then you'll also notice the inner race has split in it and you can take a punch and pop the inners out. Try to keep track of which side each inner goes in (tiny dremel mark) and only do one bearing at a time, this will keep you from mixing parts, I did and had to redo my work to straighten things out It's not really necessary to pop the inners out, I just get a little excessive real often. As an example, after I packed the bearings completely full of grease, I put a bolt through them and tightened it up to squeeze it together like when it's mounted and spun it with a drill. I was quite surprised at how hot it got, but it didn't have the hub or the spindle to help dissipate the heat and I was spinning about 10 times as fast as it spins under use.

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I did some reading up on greases and if you want to be fanatical about this, you can thoroughly clean the old grease out and then pack all new grease because it's possible that the old and new are no completely compatible and could cause it to melt, or something like that, I think it was the suspension soap in the greases that were the problem.

Take some photos and let us know how it comes out.

You're welcome

Jeff

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If I remember correctly, Casey was aware that the earlier bearings he was getting were not set up with the proper preload. He supposedly corrected it with his supplier. If its a self contained bearing, not needing to be adjusted with a nut like on your car, there should not be any play between the outer race and inner. There should be some resistance but smooth beyond the grease resistance when you turn the inner race. If the bearing is not preloaded properly, all the pressure centers on the bottom couple of rollers rather then being spread somewhat evenly on the bottom 180 degrees of rollers. That overloads the bearing and leads to early failure. The bearing being loose on the spindle shaft or in the spindle housing is another problem but not everyone has that problem. Fix that like kinarfi suggested. There isn't much else you do except machining or plating.

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I will say what others will not! Machining, plating or hub replacement is the only REAL fix. Kinarfi's fix is a really good bandaid!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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