Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

have a new actuator to install, but can't seem to get the old one off. Have removed the screw and can wiggle it freely, but cant get the tube and o ring that go to into the differential to come free. trying not to break it off in the process. Any suggestions besides more brute force?

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Hey there,

What process did you go through to figure out you needed a new part?

I have a 2006 650 Commando and 4wd is not engaging. I pushed the button on the dash. That is the extent of my checking out what the problem is so far.

I realized the 4wd wasn't working when I went to move the machine and got stuck in a little bit of snow and the front wheels were not moving. 

I am still re-habing the machine and this would be the next on the list.

Thanks for any info.

 

 

Posted

From other posts I have seen sounds like there should be power to the actuator when the switch is in the 2wd position and no power in the 4wd position.  Is this correct?

Default position should be 4wd?

If I do take off the actuator to look at it closer is there parts going to go flying (springs ect)?  Would you suggest takling the hood off to be able to see from above?

Hood is on now and I would try working on it from the wheel well.

Will I need anything new like gaskets to be able to re-install?

Thanks

Bill

Posted

Well I have power to the switch and down to the actuator.

I went to take out the actuator unit and when I took out the screw through the firewall it backed out but was against the wall so i couldn't move it to remove it.(up against the firewall).

But as I was looking at it,  I must have brushed up and turned the tire which turned the other tire.

The pin must have come out allowing the 4wd. which I am happy with.

I put the two screws back in and then lost the 4wd.  I backed off the screw coming through the firewall and must be enough to allow it to go back in 4wd.

I guess the short story is the actuator is toast but I can go in and out of 4wd by turning the screw.

Anyone with more thoughts on this subject?

Thanks

Bill

 

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By OBL
      program will open in old Bud program only/ but will not go in BUDS 2 to let use program ECU problem working on has new engine/ new fuel pump/ injectors/ lines/ sensors/ crank sensor maps/ and new throttle body and injectors. machine starts runs a minute dies/ on 3 rd  try says key not recognized /we put other key in and same thing happens/wait 10 minutes, you can go again/ is there a back door in the program/ also might mention unplug temp sensor and map sensor , it will run a few minutes longer / then die again.
    • By Mountainman
      Radiator fan on 2018 textron havoc won’t come on
    • By AaronD1982
      Onto the next problem, everything has been replaced in the charging system except the Flywheel Rotor, I have it torn apart all the way down to said rotor, but it is suggested that a specific puller is required, and a compatible rotor seems virtually impossible to find.  I can find many like it, but this one is mine scenario for those that get the reference.  For all I know I have the last Massimo Buck 400S on the planet and will never find another part again, but who knows.  Any ideas, help or otherwise that anyone might have would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Fmaxiron
      Hit a rock last weekend and trashed my front A-arm and axle on my Outlander. I’ve been looking around for reliable sources for replacement components. A lot of listings online look a bit hit or miss, so I’m trying to figure out what’s actually worth trusting.
      Has anyone here had good luck with dealers or sites where you can buy genuine Can-Am spare parts online without worrying about quality issues or fake OEM stuff? I’d rather pay a bit more and get the right fit than deal with problems later.
      Any recommendations appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...