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Trooper 1100cc NO SPARK NO PUMP NO FAN TILL WINCH IS ACTIVATED

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Hello,

Im new to this site, I have a trooper 1100cc. Im having some issues sorting out a problem hopefully someone can help, im in need of dire assistance. I have no spark, no fan, and no fuel pump until the winch is activated.

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Well u would do the basic check the fuse boxes both look at the one behind drivers seat make sure u have no burnt wires or connections in back of fuse panel check the wires by the battery for melted or damaged connections. Did this just happen

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Sounds like you may have lost a ground point, there is a ground point up by the horn that is important if, I remember right.

Charlie's right, but what you have to do is unbolt the fuse/relay block to look at the back side for burnt/hot wires. This is pretty common on Joyners

Can you tell us more, year, miles, modifications, and fill out your profile, may some one live just around the corner from you.

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Thank you for the prompt responses, It was running previously it has been sitting for 4 years. I changed the ignition switch, no mods from what I can tell. Before I put the topic up I searched around in the forum and went through all the steps previously discussed. Pulled fuse box for burnt wires, replaced burnt fuses got a wire schematic for ignition switch so I know that's right, and checked for voltage at the coil pack plug(before I discovered everything wont come on until winch is activated). I'm not sure what year it is and I'm not to familiar with the reputation and technicality of Joyners, any way to get specs of of the trooper itself. Also I don't know how to navigate this sight so any input would be great on completing my profile.

Thank you

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I've dealt with the trooper for several year and I'm pretty good with the electrics and I don't see how the winch has anything to do with the the fuel pump, fan or ignition. However, it may be that it provides an electrical path via a feed back to complete the circuit for the pump fan ignition when activated. does everything keep running after the winch is deactivated?

On my trooper, the VIN number is on the panel under the dash in front the passenger seat.

Profile, click on your icon silhouette and the in the upper right is the edit box to click on.

And welcome to the site,

Jeff, AKA Kinarfi

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the first 2 places I would check,is as Kinarfi and trackguy mentioned....grounds..there is one/couple by the horn up front,and a group of them behind the drivers seat on a transmission/starter bolt..bad grounds can give you all kinds of wierd problems,altho I havent had your exact one...yet...Hardy

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So I have gone over all ground points cleaned and new terminals. Still nothing. After the winch is activated I let the switch go and it stays on for 2 or 3 seconds. Could this be relay related? When I tried to pull them they were extremely brittle if the parts store has them ill just put all new relays in. I also went over the wires at the points where they are zip tied because they looked crimped. If there is any more advice that would be appreciated.

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So I swapped the relays with new ones and still same problem(worth a shot). I noticed the harness for the winch runs down the center of the buggy, are there any ground points in there? Does anyone have a wire schematic for the winch circuit, I think its safe to assume its all tied together at one point, no? Just want to see if I can separate them. There is also some kind of solenoid box next to the fuse box what is that for, tie into, and what are the symptoms if it were to be bad?

Thank you,

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Kinarfi...

Is it possible he lost power to the computer it self and is back feeding like you said? I think I would check for power at computer...

I know there is a pinout some where on here for the computer. Also mine is an 09 and the VIN is on Passenger side up on firewall.

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not to sound simple...but did you check that you have power at the key switch and that when turned on is putting 12v (or so) out on I believe its the blue wire...also there should be a master battery switch behind the drivers seat..Ive had them "miss behave" or have broken wires/rings there

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I have power at the ignition switch, as far as I can tell the kill switch works power cuts on and off when it is flipped(ill check it for faults). If the computer was bad would the gauges still work(gauges do cycle)? Should I try grounding the ECU case? Ill check if ignition is putting out power now.

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Ignition switch is putting out power. Not sure what this switch is on the dash...Idk if I did it right but I tried to upload a picture from my gallery, if you cant view it its in my photos.

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my guess is its a broken horn button on the dash..bigdan..2008 master switches where normally behind the seat,...in mid? 2009 they moved most of them to the dash..the computer case does not have an external ground running to it,but cant hurt to try grounding it..if your ecu was bad,I wouldnt expect it to run at all..but stranger things have happened..the solenoid next to Im guessing rear fuse box? maybe winch control solenoid?

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Yes the solenoid by the fuse box, Im thinking if the ground for the fan, fuel pump, and ignition are on the same terminal that they don't come on till the winch gets grounded by it or the relay but aren't they all on different relays? Just thinking out loud.

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ok,so using that theory..your fuel pump has 2 terminals you can get to with test/alligators clips you should be able to check there for the missing power or ground signal (will only run for a few seconds when you first cycle key)..or ground the terminal at the pump to confirm it is correctly grounded..I will have to think for a bit..but altho it sounds wierd..I think the ignition key signals the computer,the computer then signals the fan relay to cycle,and the fan relay signals the fuel pump..the joyner relays are triggered with 12v pos,,and those relays are dependant on each other

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The winch relay gets real hot if used for an extended period of time because of the high wattage pull in coils. I got rid of mine and replaced it with 4 individual relays, I don't know if any major grounds or powers go through the relay system that would effect the fuel and ignition, but a tweak tightening and unplug and plug back in any connector you can find may restore what ever was lost due to corrosion or heat.

The schematic for the computer is in the pinned Parts, pieces and Information topic at the bottom, you can down load it.

Do you have a couple of volt meters? I will assume yes, hook one to each side of the fuel pump and turn the key on, if you read voltage on both meters, you've lost the ground, if you don't read voltage on either meter, you've lost power. try it and let us know what happens.

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Ok so I tested power at the fuel pump 4v(wouldn't there be no power till the relay is grounded), then I tested power at the relays(for the hell of it) they are waiting on 12v. Tried grounding the fuel pump nothing(assuming because of the low voltage). Im not to familiar with schematics if its not to much to ask, maybe a walk through? Went through the solenoid and grounds again to clean and remount. Maybe something I could rewire? Set new grounds? If I could do that atleast ill be familiar with whats going on and why? Considering I need a crash course/lesson on schematics. Sorry, I could do anything and everything else hahaha.

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Did you measure both sides of your fuel pump?

measure (IN +) to a good chassis ground, pump (IN +) to a good chassis ground, AND (IN +) TO (IN +)

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To be honest I'm not even sure what you mean sorry,is the fuel pump in the tank because I believe the one I'm looking at runs along starter side of the motor

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Did you take apart the fuse holder behind the seat? when my pump went, i checked those wires and a good third had melted together. You likely have a bad short, and somehow the winch is giving power through the short to the pump and fan, which are linked.

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