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By paul allen
right front axle cv joint boot keeps getting torn up from the inside out....the stock one was damaged from a stick...i have replaced the axle 4 times with aftermarket axles that fit fine..after 4-5 miles of riding even on grass.the outer boot get torn up from the inside out...all 4 brand new alxes...bearings are fine nothing bent everything fits just fine....nothing seems to be binding.....any thoughts?????
thanks...pa
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By dragon
I need help I have a 2016 Kubota 1100 RTV my tilt steering wheel locked in the upper position after using the side release. The handle works but does not release the steering wheel to a lower position. If anyone knows and easy fix, please let me know any help is appreciated. Be Safe, Thanks!
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By dragon
Hi everyone, I am new to the site and I have one question. My tilt steering wheel is locked in the upper position, and I was hoping for someone could help me with the problem. I did spray some WD 40 in the area of the mechanism but still wheel is locked in the upper most position. I am willing to try anything to get the wheel free and move to a lower position. Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks!! and Be Safe!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Recon Marine
Ran fine parked it in garage and 5 days later would not start or make any noise trying to start. Bought new battery, installed it and still nothing, no noise or anything.
Any idea? I can’t figure it out since when I parked it, it was running great.
Thanks
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