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By Alex
This is an interesting read. ADAS is main stream on cars these days. The technology looks to be headed towards UTVs and Off-Road Vehicles.
Potential Motors and CFMOTO USA have announced a new partnership to integrate advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) into recreational off-road vehicles for the first time.
Sam Poirier, CEO and co-founder at Potential Motors, says the integration of its technology into CFMOTO’s vehicles will set new standards in the side-by-side segment. (Photo: Potential Motors Inc.) The partnership will first see Potential’s tech integrated into CFMOTO test vehicles. The companies will conduct extensive real-world testing at Potential’s purpose-built off-road proving ground in Fredericton, Canada, and CFMOTO facilities.
Source: https://powersportsbusiness.com/top-stories/2023/12/19/cfmoto-and-potential-motors-announce-industry-first-adas-technology-for-ohvs/
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By mac66
Just bought a used UTV, my first SxS. It is extremely LOUD! Was thinking of wearing shooting ear muffs to muffle the noise but then my passenger( wife) and I couldn't hear each other over the shouting we have to do now.... On the other hand we sometime ride with my brother and his wife and would like to be able to communicate. We throught about FRS and/or GMRS radios (we are licensed for GMRS) but we'd have to wear earphones under our ear muffs. My state doesn't require helmets to ride UTVs.
I suppose if everyone has a cheap FRS/gmrs bubble pack radio with a ear phone we could all talk to one another. Just wear an ear plug in the other ear or ear muffs.
Looking for suggestions.
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By Buck
My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts. I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch. He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing. Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
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