2007 trans 3010
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Similar Topics
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By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
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By Paul L
When I am driving at 30 to 40 mph on the highway, the display will change from H (high) to R (reverse). It does not actually shift into reverse, it seems to shift into neutral and starts losing speed and the gas pedal has no effect. After the rpm/speed drops for 5 seconds or so, it changes back to H and runs fine for another minute or so. You have to try to drive it at less than 5000 rpm or so, to try and keep this from happening. Any ideas on what the problem might be? It only happens at the higher speeds.
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By FTG-05
I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
What other makes and models should I be looking at?
Thanks for the help!
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By Matthew Smith
2013 Bennche Bighorn 700 EFI
I just picked up this project that I was told would crank, but not start. This is what I’ve figured out so far….
I installed a new battery and get all dash lights, head lights, and brake lights on when turning the ignition on. Fuel pump even turns on. It does not crank with the key, but would when I jumped the starter solenoid, so I replaced it…..no change.
Figured I’d check for spark and compression while I was dorking around. Compression is 150 psi, but there is no spark. Replaced the spark plug… no change.
So, is my new starter solenoid bad? Could it be the brake or gear position switches even though the brakes and neutral lights come on? Not sure where to go from here.
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By rdborra
I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running.
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