Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

New-to-me 2012 CC Volunteer throttle cable broke during the wicked cold snap we had a few weeks ago (upstate NY). It was already a bit sticky, but at least it was usable. 

Is it possible to replace it myself, or must I pay to have it hauled 50 miles to the nearest shop?  I can access both ends, but the majority of it is pretty buried from the top and underneath. 

Any advice would be appreciated. 

Posted

more than likely you're going to have to crawl under it,** usually throttle cables run from the pedal through a hole in the lower dash, and underneath the floor.

 What i would do is find the throttle cable at the governor on the engine, and trace it to the pedal, or the other way around so you will know which way to route the new one.... on each end of the cable are little round tabs. They almost look like BB's. usually you have to pull the cable one way or another to slide them out of their keeper hole. usually pry on it with a flathead screwdriver.

here is an online manual for your machine if needed. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1146500/Cub-Cadet-Volunteer.html?page=1#manual

 i hope this helps some.

** if you cant crawl under it and you have to jack it up,  be sure to support it with jackstands or concrete blocks, in case the jack fails.

 

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 2/27/2019 at 12:16 PM, Robynne Catheron said:

New-to-me 2012 CC Volunteer throttle cable broke during the wicked cold snap we had a few weeks ago (upstate NY). It was already a bit sticky, but at least it was usable. 

Is it possible to replace it myself, or must I pay to have it hauled 50 miles to the nearest shop?  I can access both ends, but the majority of it is pretty buried from the top and underneath. 

Any advice would be appreciated. 

Robynn did you change your cable? I just had to replace a fuel pump, filter and regulator... found a websight to order parts just google parts OPengines  had the best prices for what i needed. but still not the cheapest.. 

 Nath 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By MilSurpYinzer
      Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
      I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
      A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
      A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
      Tire chains for the winter
      And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
      Bumpers because duh.
      I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
      Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
      Thanks so much!
    • By Stan M
      I have a 2026 Massimo 760L and also the Massimo snowblower attachment and would like to do a permanent install on the control cable and switch. Does anyone have a recommendation regarding the routing of the cable and mounting of the control switch?
       
    • By gridlock
      After three years, my Sector completely died.  Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged.  The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
      As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed.  I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly.  I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)).  Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts.  I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
      So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries.  Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current.  The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
      Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
      A few questions:
      In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that.  Is there any more info about that?
      Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium?  I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
      Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion?  As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time.  What do you think?
       


    • By Sylvain Gravel
      Hi,
      I have an Axis 500 2022, here's my question. Is it normal that there is a gap of a few centimeters when I press the gas pedal before the engine increase speed, as if there was a looseness? Therefore I would not have all the power.
       
      Thanks.
    • By Jamesshoop1
      This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up  and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
×
×
  • Create New...