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Mule 550 parking brake cable and rear end work


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The cables are sort of seized up on the emergency brake, they still work but i have to wiggle and pull on em to get them to release, i pulled the drum off but cant see a way to remove the cable. It is kind of dirty inside the drum where it was leaking so i need to run to the parts store and buy some parts cleaner so i can see everything better.

 The shop manual i have  does not cover parking brake cable removal, well.... it does kind of. it says "Remove parking brake cable at both ends" 🙄

 We'll see

 EDIT: ARRR! Looks like my rear axle seal is leaking, there is a small puddle on a machined step below the seal and it smells like Trans oil. felt around the wheel cylinder and it isn't coming from their.....  I guess my weekend is planned for me LOL

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You're really getting to know that machine Travis! I can't help with how that cable is connected, I'd guess it's some kind of clip, like a motorcycle. And if you can find a manual from that era, most manufacturers tend to use the same method from one model to the next. But depending on the routing of that cable, and how much it winds between components. I'd think about tying, and then taping some sturdy cord to the end, or ends. That way you can feed the new one back through the same way it came out. Sometimes that stuff can be a 3 dimensional puzzle. The cordage can "sometimes" make it easier. Not always, but there's no harm done, if it doesn't work. 

FWIW my buggy has a short cable, that goes to a solid yoke type linkage. So it pulls two rods, one going to either side, where it looks like it then becomes cable again, and goes to each drum. That doesn't sound like what you've described, so a picture of mine from the manual would likely be useless. At any rate, I looked but didn't see any detail on the type of fastener. It just said " remove cable from grommet". There was no useful picture that I could see. All I can say, is it seemed to indicate the back, outside of the plate. And if memory serves, that's how it was on an auto, with a clip holding it.

A couple cans of walmart brake cleaner is good to keep on hand. I use that stuff a lot.

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8 hours ago, Travis said:

Hey, you aren't anywhere close to the Hurricane coming are you?

No, I'm only about 75 miles east of Dallas. So we might get rain, but that should be all. Can't seem to stay dry for very long this year. But I suppose its better than having it the other way around.

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oh lord........

i pulled the drum off today to see if could remove it, if there is way its a very tight fit, i just put it back on and buttoned it  back up.

 i called the dealer to see if they could help me locate a service manual for it thats a little more in depth. the one i have isn't straight from kawasaki but a "3rd party" waiting for the parts guy to call back,.

 

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1 hour ago, Travis said:

oh lord........

i pulled the drum off today to see if could remove it, if there is way its a very tight fit, i just put it back on and buttoned it  back up.

 i called the dealer to see if they could help me locate a service manual for it thats a little more in depth. the one i have isn't straight from kawasaki but a "3rd party" waiting for the parts guy to call back,.

 

all that's available now is a service manual supplement which just covers, Fuel system, Converter system, and  Troubleshooting...

 

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So the A/B motorcycle type cable ends go into C on one end. And you say the end in question, the square end, goes into the rear brakes? What does the part diagram look like for that? 

I have to admit it's a funky illustration. Giving very little detail. Maybe the other end will give more detail. Or the part that it actually goes into. Do the cables terminate into the brake cylinders?

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i got it !!! i got it !!!

 the cable goes in the drum incased in a spring, and the square end of the cable is captured by  a little "U" shape molded into the parking brake lever inside the drum, the drum is pinned to the brake pad, i removed the E clip and and pin and VOILA!

 i have the cable soaking in Evaporust and Penetrating fluid to see if that will loosen it up.

some pictures will ensue

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Great news! I knew it would work out. Depending on how much trouble it is to do it over again, vs. the price of new cables, I'd look very seriously at replacing those. Since the cables will never slide the same way as when new. They'll always bind, and be prone to rust again. There's nothing wrong with trying to salvage parts, but you might be spinning your wheels there with soaking. All new cables, springs, and probably the hardware also, is probably the best way to go. But it never hurts to try. They'll certainly be better than what you had before. I'm glad to hear you're on the way to getting a handle on that parking brake.

 Now for the axle bearing, and seal. You'll want to do both sides. If you have to pull the axle out of one side, its a small step to do the other. Assuming it's like a cars differential, it would have to be opened to release the axle clips. 

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7 minutes ago, kenfain said:

Great news! I knew it would work out. Depending on how much trouble it is to do it over again, vs. the price of new cables, I'd look very seriously at replacing those. Since the cables will never slide the same way as when new. They'll always bind, and be prone to rust again. There's nothing wrong with trying to salvage parts, but you might be spinning your wheels there with soaking. All new cables, springs, and probably the hardware also, is probably the best way to go. But it never hurts to try. They'll certainly be better than what you had before. I'm glad to hear you're on the way to getting a handle on that parking brake.

 Now for the axle bearing, and seal. You'll want to do both sides. If you have to pull the axle out of one side, its a small step to do the other. Assuming it's like a cars differential, it would have to be opened to release the axle clips. 

Price of new cables are $25 for both, one is $6.00  and one is 19. the 6.00 is SIGNIFICANTLY shorter than the other. probably will replace em.

the new hardware, (springs and keepers) would be about 10 days arriving. no shorter than ordering from dealer either.

it looks like for the axle the seal is right behind the bearing, and the bearing is right behind the brake panel...i'll pull the bearing first and see if thats right... but the manual actually does go in depth on axle removal,, thats a relief! :D  

my brother is offering me advice too, he's a little more mechanicly inclined than i am.

 

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Looking at those springs, they look just like what I'm used to seeing on auto drum brakes. So I can definitely say that you'll want new springs. Reusing old springs just makes drum brakes squirrelly. They'll be fine one stop then not work, or do something wierd the next time. 

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That axle grease that's leaked, is very bad for the brake shoes. It'll destroy the material the friction surface is made of. So if it's got on them, you'll want to hose em down with that brake cleaner. If it has soaked in for a few weeks, they might not be salvaged. Takes awhile for them to break down though. So if you re-use those, you'll want to keep an eye on em. 

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1 minute ago, kenfain said:

That axle grease that's leaked, is very bad for the brake shoes. It'll destroy the material the friction surface is made of. So if it's got on them, you'll want to hose em down with that brake cleaner. If it has soaked in for a few weeks, they might not be salvaged. Takes awhile for them to break down though. So if you re-use those, you'll want to keep an eye on em. 

Yep, i cleaned them spotless with some parts cleaner and wiped off all the "ick" on 'em.

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You might get lucky. But that luck would probably run out pretty quick once you started on the seal. But its worth spending a few minutes on. Being a sealed bearing, you might get away with just leaving the other side alone. Just depends on how much trouble it is to release that axle. Sometimes driving out seals can be a p.i.a also. Seal pullers are cheap, but that axle has to be out to use it.

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usually these bearings and seals are standard sizes and that's why you see other part numbers that work. You can carefully measure a bearing and seal and any auto parts place should be able to match you up with what you need. Don't get fooled with "genuine parts" only the higher price is genuine.

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got the old bearing and seal out, new seal is installed, i just put the bearing in the freezer for ease of install, i dont have a bearing driver, and the socket size close enough to the O.D. would be hitting the balls themselves, and i dont wanna do that... so i guess i'll let it alone in the freezer for a bit and then use a block a wood across the top to get it level and drive it in.

 

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