Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

It seems the plastic hood or cowl is no longer avaialble. Mine is all cracked up. Does anybody make an aftermarket replacement? Or has anyboy fabricated some kind of ATV rack?  Would like a solution that looks OK, protects electrics and master cylinder from the elements and removes easily for service access to that area.  Any ideas or pics of someone's solution?

IMG_9601.JPG

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finished the cracked hood / cowl repair. I roughed up the plastic surface with a wire wheel, cut a piece of metal much larger than the crack, roughed up the metal surfase with a cut off wheel then bonded the two together with Bondo's Bumper Repair Kit from Amazon.  Looks good but only time will tell if it will hold up.

IMG_9601.JPG

IMG_9807.JPG

IMG_9808.JPG

IMG_9809.JPG

IMG_9810.JPG

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By JimG
      Recently, my unit Axis 500 (2020) will only go into reverse and neutral. I am not able to get high or low. The engine itself sounds fine and I do not have other issues on this unit. I change the engine oil but have not yet changed the gear oil.
      Before this happened I occasionally encountered issue where going from reverse to high gear, it would grind some and i had to reposition to shift into high gear. I also for last couple weeks heard a squeaking sound. I couldn't tell what it was. Was looking for a grease point I missed.
      The unit has around 70 hours and is kept in the garage.
      Anyone else encounter this type of scenario? Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thanks.
    • By Cory J
      Belt started slipping when I used it in high gear. It works okay in low unless I'm trying to power it up a hill and then it slips.., Ordered a new belt and went to change it and found a good bit of oil in the belt housing. Has anyone experienced this? Belt looks fine. Only have 300 miles on this thing..
    • By JSwearer
      Does anyone have any suggestions for aftermarket shocks.  I have a T-Boss 550 and took it riding in some rough trails and the stock suspension was uncomfortably rough.
      Thanks
    • By mark walkom
      the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
       
      hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...