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Posted

I have a 2020 Sector E1. It's been a great UTV over the years and I did a lithium battery upgrade a few years back (complete game changer). Since owning the unit the dashboard and lights would occasionally flicker while driving, but not every time. I couldn't replicate the issue in any driving scenario and all fuses are good. The dashboard and several switches finally died completely this past weekend - meaning lights, winch, and dash lights do not work, but forward/reverse and speed work. I rechecked the fuses and all look good - any ideas on what else to check?

Posted
16 hours ago, Jarheadtx said:

I have a 2020 Sector E1. It's been a great UTV over the years and I did a lithium battery upgrade a few years back (complete game changer). Since owning the unit the dashboard and lights would occasionally flicker while driving, but not every time. I couldn't replicate the issue in any driving scenario and all fuses are good. The dashboard and several switches finally died completely this past weekend - meaning lights, winch, and dash lights do not work, but forward/reverse and speed work. I rechecked the fuses and all look good - any ideas on what else to check?

Complete guesswork here, but going with the easiest first - have you checked your 12V battery or replaced it? The items you mentioned are 12V driven I believe, and since the main pack constantly charges the 12V battery through the DC/DC converter it can hide the fact that the 12V is dying.  Is there a chance the battery has never been changed an maybe it just got to the point where it couldn't drive the lights anymore but can still muster enough current to start the UTV initially?  The only way to check the battery is turning off the 48V batteries themselves (if they have that function on each of them like mine) or completely disconnecting the 12V, and then checking the voltage.  When I did that, I found out my battery was at 6V when it wasn't being propped up by the main pack.  I didn't have any errors though.

If it isn't that, looking at the wiring diagram it gets more complicated and all I can suggest is follow the wiring diagram from the 12V back to the combination instrument (the display).

  • Like 1
Posted

Hello 

I have had a very similar issue and trying to troubleshoot it as well, I recently inherited a 2017 E1 and currently doing the lithium update, so the AGM batteries are out of the unit.  The guy i purchased it from said the instrument panel and switches were flickering prior to buying and he changed out the small 12V 30amp relay by the 12 V battery (but unfortunately he put a 12 V 80amp relay) and said the panel and switches worked for a day and then stopped working.  I am hoping that due to the 80 amp relay did not fry the instrument panel.  I switched the relay back to a 12 V 30 amp relay but the instrument panel is still not working.  On the back of the instrument panel I do have 12.8 V at the purple wire with the vehicle off and in the accessory key position.  With the key in the accessory position I do not have any other hot wires to the back of the instrument panel.  I have checked the ignition switch which has continuity in the accessory position.  Wondering if anybody has ideas as why would not be getting accessory power to the back of the instrument panel with the key in the accessory position.  Have ordered a new fuse box relay to see if one of the relays was fried by the 80 amp mistake (all the fuses look good in the fuse box).

thanks

Posted
17 hours ago, jgray33 said:

Hello 

I have had a very similar issue and trying to troubleshoot it as well, I recently inherited a 2017 E1 and currently doing the lithium update, so the AGM batteries are out of the unit.  The guy i purchased it from said the instrument panel and switches were flickering prior to buying and he changed out the small 12V 30amp relay by the 12 V battery (but unfortunately he put a 12 V 80amp relay) and said the panel and switches worked for a day and then stopped working.  I am hoping that due to the 80 amp relay did not fry the instrument panel.  I switched the relay back to a 12 V 30 amp relay but the instrument panel is still not working.  On the back of the instrument panel I do have 12.8 V at the purple wire with the vehicle off and in the accessory key position.  With the key in the accessory position I do not have any other hot wires to the back of the instrument panel.  I have checked the ignition switch which has continuity in the accessory position.  Wondering if anybody has ideas as why would not be getting accessory power to the back of the instrument panel with the key in the accessory position.  Have ordered a new fuse box relay to see if one of the relays was fried by the 80 amp mistake (all the fuses look good in the fuse box).

thanks

It looks like that 30A fuse sits between the main pack battery and the DC/DC converter, so if there had been a surge, it seems like it's your converter that would have fried instead of the panel.  From the wiring diagram it seems like you should have more live wires in the connector to the panel, but without the main packs in I'm not sure if they would be live.  The wiring diagram is the second to last page of the service manual.

2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

Posted
6 hours ago, GNFO said:

It looks like that 30A fuse sits between the main pack battery and the DC/DC converter, so if there had been a surge, it seems like it's your converter that would have fried instead of the panel.  From the wiring diagram it seems like you should have more live wires in the connector to the panel, but without the main packs in I'm not sure if they would be live.  The wiring diagram is the second to last page of the service manual.

2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf 23.59 MB · 1 download

I am talking about the 12v 30amp relay (main relay combination) not the large 30amp fuse - the Hisun tech i spoke with said the instrument panel and switches should all still function without the main battery packs in place bc they run off the 12v battery. thanks for attaching the service manual!

Posted
On 12/9/2025 at 1:07 PM, jgray33 said:

Hello 

I have had a very similar issue and trying to troubleshoot it as well, I recently inherited a 2017 E1 and currently doing the lithium update, so the AGM batteries are out of the unit.  The guy i purchased it from said the instrument panel and switches were flickering prior to buying and he changed out the small 12V 30amp relay by the 12 V battery (but unfortunately he put a 12 V 80amp relay) and said the panel and switches worked for a day and then stopped working.  I am hoping that due to the 80 amp relay did not fry the instrument panel.  I switched the relay back to a 12 V 30 amp relay but the instrument panel is still not working.  On the back of the instrument panel I do have 12.8 V at the purple wire with the vehicle off and in the accessory key position.  With the key in the accessory position I do not have any other hot wires to the back of the instrument panel.  I have checked the ignition switch which has continuity in the accessory position.  Wondering if anybody has ideas as why would not be getting accessory power to the back of the instrument panel with the key in the accessory position.  Have ordered a new fuse box relay to see if one of the relays was fried by the 80 amp mistake (all the fuses look good in the fuse box).

thanks

The flickering you're describing is exactly what I was experiencing before it died completely. I haven't changed any of the relays yet and curious to hear if the new fuse box relay works - please keep me posted!

Posted
8 hours ago, Jarheadtx said:

The flickering you're describing is exactly what I was experiencing before it died completely. I haven't changed any of the relays yet and curious to hear if the new fuse box relay works - please keep me posted!

Quick Troubleshooting Guide

Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue.

Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue.

Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad.

Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad.

Replace relay if faulty.

Posted
On 12/9/2025 at 2:10 PM, jgray33 said:

Jarheadtx 

 

if ur battery is good - you may check the small 12v 30amp relay with the four wires going to it 

 

Quick Troubleshooting Guide

Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue.

Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue.

Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad.

Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad.

Replace relay if faulty.

Posted
1 hour ago, Savage3 said:

Quick Troubleshooting Guide

Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue.

Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue.

Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad.

Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad.

Replace relay if faulty.

So the 12v at pin 86 with ign turned to acc- what are you saying is the control circuit? 
 

the fuse panel by 12v battery or the instrument panel at dash?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

ok so what i have found out by trial and error 

Did lithium conversion 48v battery - when doing conversion had only 12v battery hooked up and couldnt get anything to work - hooked up only 48v battery and disconnected the 12v battery and could get the dash to come on and had power to wheels but kept burning up 12v relays i was trying to use ( come to find out the 48v charges the 12v battery but the small battery is for the wench)

thought i had a ground wire that was shorting out - took down wire looms and traced wires - all looked good

The 12v relay i was previously referring to - needs to actually be a 48v relay because it pulls off the 48v system (and in the manual states 48v relay)

Hope this helps someone!

Posted
22 minutes ago, jgray33 said:

ok so what i have found out by trial and error 

Did lithium conversion 48v battery - when doing conversion had only 12v battery hooked up and couldnt get anything to work - hooked up only 48v battery and disconnected the 12v battery and could get the dash to come on and had power to wheels but kept burning up 12v relays i was trying to use ( come to find out the 48v charges the 12v battery but the small battery is for the wench)

thought i had a ground wire that was shorting out - took down wire looms and traced wires - all looked good

The 12v relay i was previously referring to - needs to actually be a 48v relay because it pulls off the 48v system (and in the manual states 48v relay)

Hope this helps someone!

Sorry, I missed the post before this one. The problems I've seen with lithium conversion has been compatibility issue with voltage regulator/rectifier.  

Yeah, makes sense that 12V relay will pop to protect circuit when installed in 48v circuit.

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