Hoping someone out there somewhere can help.....2019 Massimo Buck 400S

[AaronD1982]

Onto the next problem, everything has been replaced in the charging system except the Flywheel Rotor, I have it torn apart all the way down to said rotor, but it is suggested that a specific puller is required, and a compatible rotor seems virtually impossible to find.  I can find many like it, but this one is mine scenario for those that get the reference.  For all I know I have the last Massimo Buck 400S on the planet and will never find another part again, but who knows.  Any ideas, help or otherwise that anyone might have would be greatly appreciated.

[Jaygyver]

Have you tried the Massimo listing to see if any one there can help?

 The forums here seem to be hit or miss on how busy it is so putting it everywhere you can helps.

 The one thing you can look into is swapping out the motor with a HF motor or what ever. There are a couple here that have done it without toooo much problems and the utube has a couple showing what they did also.

[Ben1098]

What is the problem you are chasing?  Charging systems are pretty well cut and dried.

Does the motor turn over and run AOK other than the battery going down?

[AaronD1982]

Motor starts right up no issues.  Idles fine, increases RPMs when accelerator is pressed fine....it just won't keep the battery charged when I put it in gear and turn the lights on, if I were to let it idle long enough with no lights and never putting it in gear it would eventually pop the low battery signal as well.  

New AGM Battery, New Starter solenoid, new voltage regulator and new stator. My son and I have it torn down to the flywheel rotor right now and once I locate the 35mm x 1.5 puller I am going to remove the flywheel rotor and try and locate the part number so I can look to replace it as well.  

At this point I just go down the line to the next possible issue and replace.  Wash rinse repeat.

 

[Jaygyver]

Have to go to the tube for small engine stuff myself but, have you made sure the -wires- are ok? Sometimes the connections can corrode all the way down inside the wire. I've had to replace a few over the years on different stuff, you would be surprised on how far down the wire the corrosion goes.

 Granted the machine isn't too old but you're talking overseas suppliers.

There are probably other brands on these forums that have similar issues so if you haven't already you might do a search for the same issues? May not be the same motors but they all basically use the same charging system./

Just throwing my 2 cents worth in.........

[Ben1098]

You need to do some checks before pulling the electrics.

Resistance test of stator  3 Ph "Y" connection...3 heavy wires coming out...all the same color.  The 3 windings have  common connection at the center.....just like a Y.  Measure the resistance from A to B.......B to C.......C to A.  None are marked....you label them (in any order you want) with a marker on the pigtail connector..  Resistance will be under 1 ohm and most  meters don't start at "zero" when the test leads are shorted.  If your meter starts at say 2.3 ohm with the leads shorted.....expect a reading around 2.8 between pairs at tested leads.

Check for Shorted stator windings (A  B  C) to ground......go to your highest resistance scale.....should read OPEN.

VOLTAGE  Live test....motor running at idle.....Meter to AC VOLTS.  Voltage output (Leg to Leg to Leg) should be in the 30 VAC to 50 Vac (at idle).  Increase throttle to half speed.......expect a higher output voltage....say 80 Vac.  Be careful as this can really ruin your pants.

CURRENT Load test......motor at idle.  Using a 120 V "banned" 60W incandescent light bulb for the load, connect to the A-B, B-C, C-A terminals on the pigtail.  light should glow.....bump up idle-----brighter.  You cam blow (over voltage) the light bulb if you go too high on the Rs.

If the above tests are good.....and you stated a new voltage regulator-----you need to check for the Regulator wiring connections.

+12 Vdc lead from the battery.  Use a test light with a 12 v bulb.  I changed one over with a old Chevy dome light (these get hot...remember how the snow would melt off the roof if the door lock iced up and the door stayed "open").  OR make one for a 2 A load from a brake light bulb ----1156/1157 bulb with a socket and pig tail leads will work.  Connect one lead to the Neg battery lead for this test.  Check the test light circuit by probing the other lead to the + battery post.....bright.  Move to the Regulator + output (heavy RED wire)  Move the test lead to battery connection at Regulator....bright again.....HOT side wiring is good.

GROUND lead from battery.  Same as above but connect to the Battery POS terminal this time.  Tap the NEG terminal....bright.  Tap to the frame/motor case......bright.   Move the test lead to the Regulator Neg (BLK) terminal.....should be bright.