2014 Massimo 1100 check engine light
-
Similar Topics
-
By barticus73
I am looking to buy a small UTV to do work around my property and priced a brand new Massimo T-Boss 560 through Lowes @ $10,500 out the door or a Dealer provided CFMOTO Uforce 600 at $11,500 out the door. Are there any glaring reasons to go with the Uforce 600 at an extra $1000? Is one model more reliable than the other? Any input greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Jerry
-
By barticus73
I am looking to buy a small UTV to do work around my property and priced a brand new Massimo T-Boss 560 through Lowes @ $10,500 out the door or a Dealer sold CFMOTO Uforce 600 at $11,500 out the door. Are there any glaring reasons to go with the Uforce 600 at an extra $1000? Is one model more reliable than the other? Any input greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Jerry
-
By Tim n Deb
Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas, stalled and died and would not start. Towed back to house, New plug added this past month, plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good. Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt. Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died. Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it. But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start. Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right. Any and all help apprecated. Thank you
-
By Chile
2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity.
Question 1: When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
Question 2: I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance. I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention. I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
Thank you all in advance,
Chile
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.