Kawasaki Mystery Engine Model Number ...Can you solve it?
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By FTG-05
I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
What other makes and models should I be looking at?
Thanks for the help!
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By TjB
My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts?
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By rsar
So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price. Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for. Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.
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By Graffy
Im new to the UTV world but not new to the fabrication world. Me and my friend have been focusing on designing and building a rallye-type setup with a custom chassis and a single seater. With suspension design at a good point, we want to start work on the chassis; however, there is one big hiccup in the way, and that is the powertrain. We've been going back and forth on this for quite some time now and realized that we cant find any great options. We want the engine to be behind the driver and mounted between the seat and the rear axle with a transaxle setup. We aren't going to need any power for the front wheels, as this is an RWD application (Toyota MR2 style setup). It also needs quite a small engine; I would love for it to be 100+ hp and possibly be turbocharged down the line, but power isn't a huge deal right now. Right now its a battle between a UTV engine X trans or a bike engine with a diff.
Although crotch rocket engines are super cool, they aren't built for high-torque applications, and a differential setup for one can range up to $6k, which is pretty ridiculous for our initial budget. (We are not going chain-driven as we have bad experience in that area.).
That's what leads us to UTV x Snowmobile drivetrains. I was initially surprised to find out how much power they have and realized it could be a great option with how they are designed for high torque applications. It is a difficult situation to find a good setup.
The transaxle needs to be either a manual or a sequential setup. And although there are some great engine options, with my limited knowledge in the UTV world, I have yet to find a transaxle that fits or works well with those engines.
So my questions are this: Does anyone know of a good combo or might be able to lead me down a direction? Could it be damaging to an AWD transmission if nothing is connected to the front output shaft and only the rear diff?
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By SpaceGhost
As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?
Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)
Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6.
It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks.
The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires)
The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride.
They will be coming off.
Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained.
Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return.
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