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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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By Outlaw Redneck
Hello all. I have a 2005 Joyner sand spider 650 with the dreaded broken output shaft on the transmission. I got ahold of a 2007 joyner commando 650 for cheap that had a bad motor but a good transmission. I got it because everything i read said that the transmission would work but it seems that it will not. Due to the commando being 4x4 it has a selectable locker and a small ring gear using a "idler" gear to turn the ring gear which make the output spin the wrong direction. Is there any way that I can make this thing work? I really dont want a commando, I like the buggy but if the trans wont work then I can only put my motor in the commando. Any help would be appreciated. I have the ring gear from the original trans but the shaft is broken and the shaft from the commando wont fit the ring gear it doesn't appear.
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By jugliner
I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed. It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage. I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up. I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter. I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging. I reset the ECU after every component swap.
I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps. The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped. BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
Thanks.
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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By johnney
it started bogging down when under acceleration. so first i replaced the carbeurator, no change. now i replaced the wet assembly and no change. what am i missing. is there a sensor or something im missing. HELP, HELP, HELP
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