Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently ordered some parts for my 2017 MSU 500 and when they came there was a brochure included that gave some hints for making Hisun motors run better . Most of them made sense but one suggestion was to raise the oil level by 3/4qt. (bottom of dip-stick threads) to improve wet shoe clutch wear . I'm not yet familiar with the power train on UTV's (but I'm a-larnin') but this goes against what I was always taught about overfilling oil levels. These guys seem to know their stuff (Motorcycle Doctor ) but I'm wondering if anyone has any input on this .

BTW...They did have one good suggestion about blowing all of the old oil out of the oil cooler when doing an oil change.  When doing an oil change on my cars, this is something that I've always done ( I was taught by an old school mech. MANY yr=ears ago) but is rarely ,if ever , done in a garage. You'd be surprised at the amt. of dirty oil that you avoid adding to your fresh oil. Just remember to recheck oil level after running the engine and top off the oil.

Posted

I've ordered from those same folks, I've not had a problem with any of the parts I've gotten from them.  I did purchase and install their oil dip stick setup to raise the oil level.  The problem I have with it, is that there are no clear markings on the dip stick (they may have changed this since I got mine).  It lead me to over filling it and it smoking.  (There's a thread on here about that.)  Now I just fill it to where the oil is just showing up on the bottom on their dip stick.  One plus with their setup is that it's easier to check and add oil, you don't have to reach as far down in the engine compartment to get to it.

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A friend burned up his Massimo 700 wet clutch,  got a clutch kit from Motorcycle Dr.  he was tol, instead of two quarts of oil, put in almost 4.  It’s back together and runs quieter he said with over 3 1/2 quarts.  I think Craig (motorcycle DR) knows these machines really well, but I’m not hearing the extra oil from anyone else.  Seems like there should be some confirmation about it.  I’d like to know more, as I have the 550.  Owners manual calls for a little less than 2 quarts.  .  The manual also says 10-40 SL.  Nothing about wet clutch safe oil.  I hope  someone has more information about this,  

Posted

I burnt up the clutch in my MSU 700 (Tractor Supply special) at a little less than 3000 miles.  I was using Mobile 1 10w40.  Craig at Motorcycle DR said that I needed to be using a MA2 approved oil so I switched to another motorcycle synthetic oil that is MA2 approved.  We see how this clutch wears.  I fill mine to where the oil just shows up on the extend fill tube dip stick.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 9/29/2020 at 10:15 AM, mseawell said:

I burnt up the clutch in my MSU 700 (Tractor Supply special) at a little less than 3000 miles.  I was using Mobile 1 10w40.  Craig at Motorcycle DR said that I needed to be using a MA2 approved oil so I switched to another motorcycle synthetic oil that is MA2 approved.  We see how this clutch wears.  I fill mine to where the oil just shows up on the extend fill tube dip stick.

Just to be clear there are a variety of "Mobile 1"  Synthetic Oils. for example Mobil 1 , 4 Stroke Motorcycle Engine Oil Racing 4T Full Synthetic 10W-40  meets or exceeds the requirements of JASO MA2.

Posted
2 hours ago, Bill Hughes said:

Just to be clear there are a variety of "Mobile 1"  Synthetic Oils. for example Mobil 1 , 4 Stroke Motorcycle Engine Oil Racing 4T Full Synthetic 10W-40  meets or exceeds the requirements of JASO MA2.

Thanks for the info.

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

I got the hisun sector 550 with out the oil tube extension, when I change oil I don't empty the lines on oil cooler.

I got about 6000 miles on mine and add two quarts of oil when I change it and it is a little above the full line.

Over filling can cause damage on motor, causing seal's to blow from pressure I would think. Here's the oil I use and has worked well for my hisun.

Screenshot_20221031-061852.png

Posted

Good information.  Mine is 2019 model, and it came with the extension.  I too use full synthetic 10-40 oil for wet clutch.

you have a lot of miles on yours.  Do you change oil based on hours or miles?  I change based on hours.  Thanks

PS. Huge buck

Posted

I got over 500 hours on mine and change oil probably about every 500 miles, when I change oil it isn't real dark so probably change it before it's really needed, but this time it cost me $34.00 for two quarts of oil.

Used to get it for about 6 dollar's a quart.

  • Like 1
Posted

I know, it’s crazy how much oil has gone up.  I try to change at 50 hours.  Since I use it on the farm, it’s normally in low range based on advice from the Motorcycle DR.  I only run it in high range on the gravel road.  I’ve been happy with mine, but I avoid beating it.  It get plenty filthy.  It squeaks, I need to check all the zerk fittings and grease it

Posted

Yes I keep mine greased on a regular basis, especially the drive shafts, I use mine to carry corn to feed deer and most of driving is on gravel road, just changed tires on it so should get another three years on them, mine is a 2019 and just add to adjust valves because they didn't have any lash or play in them. Now it starts and idols like new.

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, Mark Bruce said:

I just bought a Coleman outfitter550 from tractor supply when I got it home I checked the oil and it appeared to be kind of waterery like it had water in it. Has anyone ever seen this before? 

Any water in your oil will turn it chocolate milky. It doesnt take much to turn it. after a couple % water dilution the rest of the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan, and refuse to mix with the oil at all.

If you dont have chocolate milky looking oil there is very little if any water in it. If you are truly concerned about the oil the cheapest fix is to change it.

They have recommended several grades of oil in these over the years, but cold it should be a 10 or 15 weight which is pretty thin. It will thicken when its warmer.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok.  A fellow named Motorcycle Dr recommended low range, unless running it fast on a street. I think his reasoning had to do with lubing the wet clutch.  Since I normally run it under 20 mph  on mostly farm fields, I normally run it in Low range.  If I go out on the gravel road, where I’m going 30-35 mph, I put it in high.  A friend had a 700 massimo (Hisun).  He burned up his wet clutch in under 100 hours.  He ran it hard, and most of the time in high range.  I don’t know the truth, still learning.  Don’t want to have to fix mine, I prefer using it! 😀

Posted
22 hours ago, Mark Bruce said:

I just bought a Coleman outfitter550 from tractor supply when I got it home I checked the oil and it appeared to be kind of waterery like it had water in it. Has anyone ever seen this before? 

Water in oil doesn't look watery, it looks like milk. If you aren't used to 10-40w at room temperature, its quite thin. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Mark Bruce said:

My bad I should of said it looked gray and kinda foamy after I drained it it looks greenish thanks 

Check again after you change and run for an hour. If it's clean then the original probably just sitting around in storage for awhile, if its milky, you have a gasket probelm. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Mark Bruce said:

What I'm really trying to find out is if anyone has ever had this experience with machines from TS 

Tractor Supply is just a retailer. It's unlikely they have anything to do with checking or filling the oil. Did you ask them?

Posted
22 minutes ago, Mark Bruce said:

Yes pretty much what your saying  does hisun put in some funky oil at the factory 

Don't know, I bought mine from Massimo and it came with nice clean 10-40w synthetic. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Bill Hughes said:

Check again after you change and run for an hour. If it's clean then the original probably just sitting around in storage for awhile, if its milky, you have a gasket probelm. 

Check your coolant.  Hopefully you don’t have motor oil in it.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rschrem
      Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks.  It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is? 
    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity. 
      Question 1:  When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
      Question 2:  I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance.  I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention.  I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
      Thank you all in advance,
      Chile
    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
×
×
  • Create New...