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oil level on Hisun motors


rtate1050

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I recently ordered some parts for my 2017 MSU 500 and when they came there was a brochure included that gave some hints for making Hisun motors run better . Most of them made sense but one suggestion was to raise the oil level by 3/4qt. (bottom of dip-stick threads) to improve wet shoe clutch wear . I'm not yet familiar with the power train on UTV's (but I'm a-larnin') but this goes against what I was always taught about overfilling oil levels. These guys seem to know their stuff (Motorcycle Doctor ) but I'm wondering if anyone has any input on this .

BTW...They did have one good suggestion about blowing all of the old oil out of the oil cooler when doing an oil change.  When doing an oil change on my cars, this is something that I've always done ( I was taught by an old school mech. MANY yr=ears ago) but is rarely ,if ever , done in a garage. You'd be surprised at the amt. of dirty oil that you avoid adding to your fresh oil. Just remember to recheck oil level after running the engine and top off the oil.

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I've ordered from those same folks, I've not had a problem with any of the parts I've gotten from them.  I did purchase and install their oil dip stick setup to raise the oil level.  The problem I have with it, is that there are no clear markings on the dip stick (they may have changed this since I got mine).  It lead me to over filling it and it smoking.  (There's a thread on here about that.)  Now I just fill it to where the oil is just showing up on the bottom on their dip stick.  One plus with their setup is that it's easier to check and add oil, you don't have to reach as far down in the engine compartment to get to it.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A friend burned up his Massimo 700 wet clutch,  got a clutch kit from Motorcycle Dr.  he was tol, instead of two quarts of oil, put in almost 4.  It’s back together and runs quieter he said with over 3 1/2 quarts.  I think Craig (motorcycle DR) knows these machines really well, but I’m not hearing the extra oil from anyone else.  Seems like there should be some confirmation about it.  I’d like to know more, as I have the 550.  Owners manual calls for a little less than 2 quarts.  .  The manual also says 10-40 SL.  Nothing about wet clutch safe oil.  I hope  someone has more information about this,  

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I burnt up the clutch in my MSU 700 (Tractor Supply special) at a little less than 3000 miles.  I was using Mobile 1 10w40.  Craig at Motorcycle DR said that I needed to be using a MA2 approved oil so I switched to another motorcycle synthetic oil that is MA2 approved.  We see how this clutch wears.  I fill mine to where the oil just shows up on the extend fill tube dip stick.

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  • 1 year later...
On 9/29/2020 at 10:15 AM, mseawell said:

I burnt up the clutch in my MSU 700 (Tractor Supply special) at a little less than 3000 miles.  I was using Mobile 1 10w40.  Craig at Motorcycle DR said that I needed to be using a MA2 approved oil so I switched to another motorcycle synthetic oil that is MA2 approved.  We see how this clutch wears.  I fill mine to where the oil just shows up on the extend fill tube dip stick.

Just to be clear there are a variety of "Mobile 1"  Synthetic Oils. for example Mobil 1 , 4 Stroke Motorcycle Engine Oil Racing 4T Full Synthetic 10W-40  meets or exceeds the requirements of JASO MA2.

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  • 8 months later...

I got the hisun sector 550 with out the oil tube extension, when I change oil I don't empty the lines on oil cooler.

I got about 6000 miles on mine and add two quarts of oil when I change it and it is a little above the full line.

Over filling can cause damage on motor, causing seal's to blow from pressure I would think. Here's the oil I use and has worked well for my hisun.

Screenshot_20221031-061852.png

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I got over 500 hours on mine and change oil probably about every 500 miles, when I change oil it isn't real dark so probably change it before it's really needed, but this time it cost me $34.00 for two quarts of oil.

Used to get it for about 6 dollar's a quart.

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I know, it’s crazy how much oil has gone up.  I try to change at 50 hours.  Since I use it on the farm, it’s normally in low range based on advice from the Motorcycle DR.  I only run it in high range on the gravel road.  I’ve been happy with mine, but I avoid beating it.  It get plenty filthy.  It squeaks, I need to check all the zerk fittings and grease it

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Yes I keep mine greased on a regular basis, especially the drive shafts, I use mine to carry corn to feed deer and most of driving is on gravel road, just changed tires on it so should get another three years on them, mine is a 2019 and just add to adjust valves because they didn't have any lash or play in them. Now it starts and idols like new.

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14 hours ago, Mark Bruce said:

I just bought a Coleman outfitter550 from tractor supply when I got it home I checked the oil and it appeared to be kind of waterery like it had water in it. Has anyone ever seen this before? 

Any water in your oil will turn it chocolate milky. It doesnt take much to turn it. after a couple % water dilution the rest of the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan, and refuse to mix with the oil at all.

If you dont have chocolate milky looking oil there is very little if any water in it. If you are truly concerned about the oil the cheapest fix is to change it.

They have recommended several grades of oil in these over the years, but cold it should be a 10 or 15 weight which is pretty thin. It will thicken when its warmer.

 

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Ok.  A fellow named Motorcycle Dr recommended low range, unless running it fast on a street. I think his reasoning had to do with lubing the wet clutch.  Since I normally run it under 20 mph  on mostly farm fields, I normally run it in Low range.  If I go out on the gravel road, where I’m going 30-35 mph, I put it in high.  A friend had a 700 massimo (Hisun).  He burned up his wet clutch in under 100 hours.  He ran it hard, and most of the time in high range.  I don’t know the truth, still learning.  Don’t want to have to fix mine, I prefer using it! 😀

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22 hours ago, Mark Bruce said:

I just bought a Coleman outfitter550 from tractor supply when I got it home I checked the oil and it appeared to be kind of waterery like it had water in it. Has anyone ever seen this before? 

Water in oil doesn't look watery, it looks like milk. If you aren't used to 10-40w at room temperature, its quite thin. 

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3 minutes ago, Mark Bruce said:

My bad I should of said it looked gray and kinda foamy after I drained it it looks greenish thanks 

Check again after you change and run for an hour. If it's clean then the original probably just sitting around in storage for awhile, if its milky, you have a gasket probelm. 

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