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New manual available from Coleman


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For whats its worth, I emailed Coleman about getting my MSO and the guy there was able to send me a current manual for my buggy, the one it cane with and the one on Tractor supplies website seems to be for an older model. Nothing seems to have changed except for the column mounted controls.

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14 hours ago, tsheh4 said:

For whats its worth, I emailed Coleman about getting my MSO and the guy there was able to send me a current manual for my buggy, the one it cane with and the one on Tractor supplies website seems to be for an older model. Nothing seems to have changed except for the column mounted controls.

What model year is your 400? Does it have the rearward slanted cylinder, doe the manual indicate the correct location of the spark plug (under the cargo bed) and air filter (under the seat)?

Was it "Steven" that you contacted at Coleman--I have found him to be quite helpful...

Is it titled HS400UTV-5, like this:

HS400UTV-5_OMTitlePage.thumb.jpg.be802c85f6b8ba3b5d0b164f624a7c63.jpg

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Steven it was, and mine was built last October 2020. Rear slant cylinder, and the front of the manual looks like that, spiral bound instead of glue bound. I haven't looked too much into the technical side of it, just that the controls are referenced right in the new one he sent. 

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My Coleman UT400 was built on 07/17/2020 according to the manufacturer's nameplate. I got  that same manual from Steven--it's real close but still has a number of errors and screw-ups, such as placing the spark plug under the seat and air filter under the cargo bed (the maintenance procedures echo this).

HS400UTV-5_OMPlugnAir.thumb.jpg.4b3c1d2ec497fa21285f82f64be352ae.jpg

 

I like your 3D stuff, what printer do you have? I've got one of the plain ol' original Elegoo Mars, 120 x 68 x 165  (LxWxH) build space.

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Yeah even the service manual has some goofs in it still. I went to do my break in service and there is a separate oil listed for the transmission, which, correct me if I'm wrong, is lubricated by engine oil in my machine. Colemam/Hisun would have a hit with these things if the would get their QC and documentation together. I bought mine on a pretty good discount at Tractor Supply due to it being returned. Shift linkage was out of wack and the fuel gage didn't work..... tightened the bolt on the transmission that holds the end of the shiftcable (it was nearly backed out) adjusted the linkage,  and pushed the plug on the fuel sender in until it clicked and she was 100%. Oh, and tightened about a dozen other loose fasteners across the whole unit.

The 3d printer started as $100 El cheapo tronXY. I have since redesigned and upgraded the hot end to make it to where I could print abs, pteg and nylon, and rebuilt it to use a 200x275mm heated bed. A new board and a new housing for it all is in the works

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You are correct, the tranny is in the crankcase and lubricated by engine oil. The fuel gauge not working has been reported bu far too many--here and elsewhere, I suspected it was a simple fix. Mine had the "final assembly" loose bolts I expected and problems shifting into reverse; but other than that it's been great--got 720 miles and 55 hours on it now.

My Elegoo is a MSLA resin based printer and after almost a year of testing I have finally found a resin mix that is suitable for making actual mechanical components for practical purposes (ALL of the "cheap" [around $30/kg] "ABS-like" resins suck. They are too brittle to be of any use when fully cured--but I have been mixing Siraya Tenacious ($65/kg) and Weistek Toughness ($58/kg) 50/50 with any cheap crap and had good results.

Your switch plate just fits on my build platform:

3DSwitchPlateCBox.jpg.58786aa4527816c3d6e2f1f4f3ac1d38.jpg

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Very nice! I I have heard great things about the resin printers, I sure would consider one knowing how many hours I've spent tinkering with my FDM printer getting the settings right. I have gone to mainly PTEG as my plastic of choice, as most of my projects are outdoor in nature and it holds up better than PLA. Not to mention it doesnt fume up my shop room like ABS.

The switch plate is rough at this point but functional. May consider closing in the sides for aesthetic purposes. I left them open for ease of access. I put little 3/4 inch Velcro pads in behind the three square areas to allow it to be removed easily for future projects. All the wiring runs to an extra fuse block mounted to the frame above the drivers side shock, which feeds from the battery leads on the winch relay. Currently I only have 4 switches in use, cargo area lights, interior lights, an aux power port in the bed for running a sprayer or whatever, and an additional cigarette lighter plug up front. May add some other goodies in the future. 

IMG_20210424_211741.jpg

IMG_20210424_211654.jpg

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Also.... check the bolt that holds the shift linkage down that goes down into the transmission if your having issues with reverse still, mine was almost backed out all the way. I played with the linkage several times trying to get it right until I figured that one out. Tightened it down, adjusted the linkage to where the neutral light lit consistently with the shifter in the right place, and it seems to be spot on. I have 22 hours on mine now, (15 on it when I bought it from Tractor Supply) heres to hoping it stays right.

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Here's a couple shots of mine--I had to "re-brand" it as an LSV (Low Speed Vehicle) to make the State of Florida happy (they had to do a physical inspection, I figured it would not hurt to badge it as an LSV) and get it registered:

(made it into an "Outfitter LSV" with 3D printed badges--just used that gray 3M double-sided tape to stick the low-speed placard  on; we had just been calling it "the thing"--"Thing 1" was what my great-granddaughter thought it should be called. I thought "Thing 16" as it's a "4x4", but my wife said no one would "get" it...

BackEnd_2021-04-27-00.thumb.jpg.bf2024a138aa8c5a872b238ae9e3e5ff.jpg

I have a thread re: the Briggs muffler/cheap noise reducer--works great with the end-cap perforations opened up to 5/32" (from 1/8" OEM, a 56% increase). Took it off a few days ago, just made it louder--no power change at any RPM--put it back on to make myself less obtrusive...

 

LeftRear_2021-04-27-00.thumb.jpg.a00aef9ee107c2caa4b8a0363928c231.jpg

The flag decal is the "Bonnie Blue Flag"; of the Republic of West Florida and an early flag of the  secessionist States during the War of Northern Aggression.

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I am jealous of you Floridians. Up here in Oklahoma, regardless of having a lot of liberties compared to a lot of other places, they are pretty restrictive with road laws. Pretty much have to take it out to the national forrest roads or be engaged in "animal husbandry." Good thing I have a few cattle I guess.

I did see your post on the muffler mod, it is now on my to-do list.

Might watch out with that flag, some yankee might look up what it is and invent a way to get offended.¬†ūüėČ

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When did you do that i guess the law changed last year addaed as manufactured , unless you build one ??

So you can drive it on roads with double line with 35 mph or less correct

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1 minute ago, Sam5 said:

When did you do that i guess the law changed last year addaed as manufactured , unless you build one ??

So you can drive it on roads with double line with 35 mph or less correct

yup, must be posted 35 MPH or less...

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CliffyK, I will not say a word. I live north of  defuniak springs., Fl Walton County.  I was planning to get a bill of sale from my friend in WV for a wrecked unit.  I am at my Dad property and I am buying a 2009 from a friend It is a 2009 Sunl 700 - Yahama Rhino clone. Made by Hisun 

I was going to modify the throttle so it can only go so fast. Since it is from out of state no title avalible, it should not be an issue, i hope. I live 1 mile for the AL FL border in farm county. 

Thanks Sam

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