Quantcast
Jump to content

Kinarfi

Steering Linkage Problem

Recommended Posts

Copied from another post.

EVR JR wrote in another post:

Ok here is the story, I was running about 40 mph down a wash bed at night making a slight right when it felt like the car was sliding then it took a sharp left and i tried to correct it without any response, I wound up into a dirt wall that was straight up . I hit with the left side of the car and flipped onto the right side of the car. We had to start walking in the dark to fing help.

It turned out that the steering shaft bolt that holds the shaft to the coloum some how stripped in the center were the bolt hangs out of the splined portion, the coloum has a flat notch that the bolt goes thru and is supposed to be held in place since the bottom of the coloum is round. My right lower control arm wound up getting and one of the hiems pulled apart, when the car flipped it landed withall the weight on the right front wheel before landing on its side.

The next moring we drilled out the coupler and put a longer grade 8 5/16 bolt and lock nut. The longer bolt alloys more surface contact on the coloum shaft since its engaging the shank of the bolt rather than the threads.

I also plan on drilling thru the shaft and putting a 1/4 bolt in it which will not allow the shaft to collaspe,. I found that even with out a bolt in the couppler the splines stay engaged but the shaft will collaspe. This will be a saftey feature if the coupler ever has a problem.

sorry for the long response. the problem with the steering shaft is pretty much the same as the problem with the ball joints, the bolt doesent engage far enough. But a larger bolt and lock nut and a bolt to hold the shafts to gether wil fix it.
Thanks for sharing, something we will all look at since steering the thing is kind of important. Someone else had a steering shaft issue a few months ago and took care of it. With two now, I am definitely looking more closely at the shaft again as I did give it a passing look last time.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

ERV JR, Thanks for the good and important tip. I'll be redoing mine before any more driving. I think you should start a new topic on this board and repeat what you posted about the steering problem. It's just too important to have it hidden down within another topic.

Good Job

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lenny, you showed me what you did to eliminate the rattle in you steering column, can you post a photo of that in this topic, the hose clamp you used would also keep the shaft from collapsing, prevent this problem, or at least slow it down.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lenny, you showed me what you did to eliminate the rattle in you steering column, can you post a photo of that in this topic, the hose clamp you used would also keep the shaft from collapsing, prevent this problem, or at least slow it down.

Kinarfi

kinarfi, go to Ebay and enter 200302043085. This is my listing which shows it quite well. Go ahead and copy if you like. You could contain the brass bearing (you could use UHMW too) by drilling and tapping for screwing surround plates to your existing top cap to hold the brass rather then machining a groove as I do.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys I would just like to add that you make sure to check the bottom coupling on the steering box because on mine it did the same thing as the upper. i would imagine you all will but cant hurt to say it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lenny, you showed me what you did to eliminate the rattle in you steering column, can you post a photo of that in this topic, the hose clamp you used would also keep the shaft from collapsing, prevent this problem, or at least slow it down.

Kinarfi

Kinarfi, after re-reading your post I saw that you were talking about my steering column shafts and not the steering box. So I went out and took the pictures you wanted. The first one shows where I inserted a 1/8" wide x about 4" long peice of pallet steel banding strap. This was to take out the play between the two shafts to eliminate the rattle. Your right, it should help in preventing the sliding of the outter shaft onto the inner shaft. However, look at the second picture. This picture is of the upper steering shaft at the universal joint. You can see that it has been sliping. Also, the spleen looks a little damaged or sheared on part of it. This is what ERV JR brought to light and yes mine is trying to come apar too. THIS WILL BE FIXED BEFORE ANY TROOPER USE FOR SURE.

2294921570104282158intIQM_th.jpg, 2976600220104282158MCjgHj_th.jpg

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my very recent work to center my steering wheel and make my buggy tern left or right equally, which it never has, I rotated the spline one notch and re tightened the bolt better, but will keep and eye on it. I plan on adding the shim and hose clamp as Lenny did.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I plan to drill thru and bolt both shafts together,above were Lenny placed the clamp

Don't know what size bolt you have in mind, but you might consider small hole with a rolled pin, leaving as much original metal as possible. and place it about a 1/4" below the outer shaft, in case there needs to be some movement as the wheel turns. That way, it shouldn't be able to fall apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Don't know what size bolt you have in mind, but you might consider small hole with a rolled pin, leaving as much original metal as possible. and place it about a 1/4" below the outer shaft, in case there needs to be some movement as the wheel turns. That way, it shouldn't be able to fall apart.

the SHAFT the rack is mounted and the coloum doesent move either, look at the way a rhino is , they have a one piece shaft

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are some of the factors that need to be looked at when it comes to how tight our buggies turn? While working on my steering, I decided that if we replace the 10 inch bar (That's a guess at length) with a 12 or 14" bar, We would have tighter turning radius. If we did that, what else would we run into? Click on the photo! then go full size

2132996300104282158GoemnQ_th.jpg Very Bad Idea - Kinarfi

edited 2-22-09

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I issue is, What is the critical failure angle of the CV joint for the front drive axles. If you turn too far the CV can fail in the same matter if the suspension having too much shock travel. Until someone pushes the limits and we know what that angle is, it is just a WAG (Wild Ass Guess).

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What are some of the factors that need to be looked at when it comes to how tight our buggies turn? While working on my steering, I wwondered if we replaced the 10 inch bar (That's a guess at length) with a 12 or 14" bar, would we have tighter turning radius. If we did that, what else would we run into? Click on the photo! then go full size

2132996300104282158GoemnQ_th.jpg

Answered my own question, I extended the Hook on the steering assembly as much as I thought possible and found that it WOULD bind up the CV. My assumption is that we are getting as much as the CVs allow. Guess I'll just live with it and have fun doing so.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2307330740104282158epPNJg_th.jpg

I think I got rid of some of play in the steering system, I put a .025" shim between the Gear Rack and the Capping Plate, heated the ends and bent them up so they stay with the cap and the Gear Rack slides against the shims, I'm hoping the shim metal makes a better bearing material than the Alum Cap.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone know what the setup for the steering assembly, specifically the distance between the stops?

My story continues under the topic of Laser Alignment

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • POLARIS RZR PARTS FOR SALE..POST HERE

      If anyone has any parts for sell Please list here by REPLY. I would like to see this RZR forum get moving a bit.Its worth a shot.

      By mayorOFsalem, in UTV Off-Road Classifieds - Buy & Sell

      • 14 replies
      • 7,381 views
    • Pug battery post melted

      I noticed the battery post was melted when the pug wouldn't start... With the pug off, just placing the cable back onto the battery creates tremendous Heat with in 5 seconds or so... I had just taken off all the connections and clean them with a wire brush just a few months back...Including battery cables and wires for the starter solenoid.  Could this only be a short or bad connection or is there something else?..could the cells of the battery be doing this or maybe the rectifier/regulator? The rectifier from visual inspection doesn't seem to be melted or discolored!

      By Doc Holland, in UTV General Discussion

      • 0 replies
      • 78 views
    • Follow-up to previous post looking for Joyner H2 for sale ...

      Anyone who is selling a Joyner R2 Renegade ... I can be reached @ (561) 886-8518 or "[email protected]" .   Thank you ... Ralph

      By Ralph Brescia, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

        
      • 0 replies
      • 153 views
    • Post your Likes and dislikes of your trooper

      Likes: Engine, differentials, axles (old style that are huge!), leg room,  manual, built in lug nut/parts trays in the hood, untapped potential, looks (even after 9 years!), rear selectable locker, tube chassis, steering box mounted in front for better control,  trailing arm suspension, beefy front a arms which are factory reinforced, factory suspension seats, factory 5 pt harness, overkill bolt sizes, wheelbase, mine has been very reliable! Dislikes: Stock shocks, gauge quality, brakes, odd sizes of insanely huge chassis bolts, fuel tank brackets, small transmission output shaft, weight, upright position of stock seats, stock air filter,  quality of suspension and steering joints, stock roll cage strength.  I'd like to point out all your name brand company's have the same and sometimes even more issues and that's what keeps the hundreds of aftermarket companies in business. Wish Joyner had more aftermarket support...

      By 2scoops, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 1 reply
      • 355 views
    • Mule 550 Starting Problem only after running

      Hello All, thanks for looking at my situation. I am new to the UTV world, but not small engines. Hoping you can help and I thank you in advance for your support / suggestions. My neighbor gave me his old 550 mule, which needed some TLC. It is a late model 2003 or earlier Kawasaki Mule 550, not sure of the VIN as I cannot locate it, and then did re-paint / powder-coat it. However I was able to get the right new parts as they matched the old ones. I have replaced the entire electrical chassis wire harness (headlights to tail light) Brand new battery new starter relay same voltage regulator - not sure if this has failed - may need to test resistance battery reads 12.8 volts start and solenoid work note sure about the Neutral Safety Switch - I pulled it, (light green wire from harness attached) - what appears to be drop of oil on tip. After I take the battery tender off the Mule, turn the key it starts up just fine and runs well. After using it for sometime or letting it run, after I shut it off, it will not start again via the key. I turn the key and nothing, no clicking, dimming of lights, nothing. It is as something i is blocking the starter trigger wire. If I remove the starter relay and test for voltages I get 12 volts on 1 prong and about 1 volt or so from the starter trigger wire (red / black) - if I turn the key, that wire registers 12v. If I jump the blades and turn the key - it starts no problem / every time. This also works, with the starter relay plugged in, if I turn the key and touch the metal top of the relay on the chassis , you will here the starter clicking and engage and eventually it will start. I find this odd as it started this morning, cold with no issue. Is it a bad brand new relay? a bad regulator? the NSS? I am drawing a blank, I called a few guys I know over at the local power sports service center and they could not think of anything. Thanks for your help Mike

      By mtarallo, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

      • 1 reply
      • 2,193 views
×