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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've read a couple people saying they found em out of spec from the factory. Just got my UTV recently and it's on my list here in the next couple weeks.

 

As far as tools should be easy: Allen wrench to pull the covers, 10mm box wrench for the lock nuts, a wrench for the adjuster, and a flat feeler gage set.

Pull the fan cover, pull the valve covers and spin it over check, and adjust as needed. The covers use an o-ring that should be reusable. Hardest part is going to be contorting my body to fit.

Posted
8 hours ago, aefron88 said:

I've read a couple people saying they found em out of spec from the factory. Just got my UTV recently and it's on my list here in the next couple weeks.

 

As far as tools should be easy: Allen wrench to pull the covers, 10mm box wrench for the lock nuts, a wrench for the adjuster, and a flat feeler gage set.

Pull the fan cover, pull the valve covers and spin it over check, and adjust as needed. The covers use an o-ring that should be reusable. Hardest part is going to be contorting my body to fit.

What size and make is you UTV? Also how many hours on it. Manual says check at 20 hours.

Posted

It's a coleman (hisun) 400. the engine/drivetrain & maine schedule seems to be identical to the 550/750s.

It's got a whole whopping 5 hrs on it. I had it for about 10 days before I had to go back to work on my ship. Be back home soon and planned on doing that and the first oil change in a couple more hours run time.

Posted

You could try bumping the starter, but engines will have a natural tendency to stop before or after TDC since TDC has the highest resistance due to the compression. When you spin it over by hand you will be able to feel the resistance.

Posted

Makes total sense. It shouldn’t be a big deal to perform. I’m looking forward in doing it instead of having to trailer it to a dealer and renting a trailer. Not looking forward in being a contortionist to gain access and visually seeing the adjustment locations. A mirror will probably help.

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