Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just replaced the OEM Discovery batteries in my 2017 E1 with Trojan T-105's.   The dealer reprogrammed the charger for these batteries.    I use the E1 almost constantly around my farm,  but seldom put more than a  a few miles a day on the rig.   As I don't need long range, it was recommended I stay with lead acid batteries as the cost became a significant factor.    My question is it is better for the batteries to charge my E1 every night or to run it a week or so and take the charge down  a ways before recharging.

Posted

As long as you aren't discharging below 50% on a lead acid it shouldnt make much difference.

I'm not familiar with those specific batteries and charging setup, but there are other issues that come with using multiple lead acid type batteries. One is that you will need to periodically do an equalization charge to keep the batteries equal. This is true with any multi-battery lead acid setup. Typically on a multi battery solar home this is done monthly and is accomplished by charging at a slightly higher than normal voltage, should be similar on a battery powered vehicle. The other concern with leaving it on the battery charger all the time would be electrolyte evaporation. If it's a wet type battery you would want to check and make sure the cells are full periodically.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If its had the correct algorithm put in then the DeltaQ charger has a balancing phase. Although that overcharge can be a bit to aggressive as on the Rangers which also use Trojans, and many people suffer because the batteries gas a lot, that rusts out the base plates and chassis (I just replaced a section of rusted through chassis on a Ranger)  You must also water the Trojans to repace the lost / evaporated water on a regular basis. If not then they really wont last long at all. Thats one reason why Hisun went for the Discover , as they dont need maintenance, which many people just dont do. On the deltaq charger there is a small rubber cover on the drivers side front, above that is a display. If you push the plastic cover above the display (Above as in going up from the ground, ) you will eventually feel a small clicking push switch. Dont push too hard just move about that area until you find it. Then while pushing the switch, plug in the mains, it will then show a P123 number. note that number and let go. Thats the algorithm thats in use. Post that on here.  And dont leave it too long before charging as its easy to let them get too low, you (or someone else jumps in and thrashes it and hey presto you have badly flattened batteries. The rot sets in as soon as you start to over discharge and pull high currents, especially if the watering hasnt been done adequately.  Juts work out what works for you ideally dont let it get below something like 50 to 60 % especially in the winter. In summer try and keep it out of the heat when charging that lessens gassing (its cooler to start with). Heavy discharge is not good for any Battery, deep discharge included. And especially when new.  The Trojans are also a bit less Ah than the Discover, although they both express the Ah in different ways. The Trojan is around 15% less capacity. So again dont expect the range you once got. 

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By Sammy
      Runs fine just putting around the yard. Get it out on the road and about a half miles it runs out of gas. Let it idle for a few minutes and it will run for another half mile and do it again. Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Does anyone know if I can get rid of the factory fuel pump?
    • By jertex
      I bought a 2017 Stampede 900 last fall that was new, old stock with less than 5 hours on it thinking that I would be getting a relatively trouble free UTV as compared to buying a used Polaris or CanAm, or Honda, etc. It's been a little quirky, but reliable. What I thought was just a minor issue with this model, the difficulty in shifting between R, N, L, H, etc., was just a characteristic of this model is now a big problem. I had to climb two very steep trails to get to the upper meadow of our hunting property, which seemed to stress the UTV more than usual since I was carrying some lumber to work on a platform for a hunting blind, and when I went to shift into park, I felt something give and it would not shift out of low, but it did move up into high gear.  I couldn't get it to shift at all at that point and the shifter felt mushy for lack of a better word. I was able to get it down to the lodge and when I investigated, I discovered that the straight, metal tube portion of the shift cable had bent to almost 90 degrees (see pics). I'm positive that it had already had some deformation that had happened previously and it had the right amount of resistance to bend to the point where it was unusable. 
      I have two questions:
      1. I suspect that there must be some other issues that makes this UTV difficult to shift, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if someone could enlighten me on what could cause this to be difficult to shift?
      2. Have any of you had this happen and if so, how difficult is it to replace the shifter cable?
      Any other advice is welcome, this is the first UTV that I've ever owned, so I don't know much about working on these or maintaining them. I'm relatively capable when it comes to working on my own vehicles in general, and I'm not afraid to take things apart and get my hands dirty.
      Thanks in advance for any insight, I'll be traveling most the day so I won't get a chance to look at replies until this evening.


       
    • By OBL
      program will open in old Bud program only/ but will not go in BUDS 2 to let use program ECU problem working on has new engine/ new fuel pump/ injectors/ lines/ sensors/ crank sensor maps/ and new throttle body and injectors. machine starts runs a minute dies/ on 3 rd  try says key not recognized /we put other key in and same thing happens/wait 10 minutes, you can go again/ is there a back door in the program/ also might mention unplug temp sensor and map sensor , it will run a few minutes longer / then die again.
    • By Hoppy one
      I replaced the stator on our Bennche 500 because it was not charging. It ran as long as you kept the battery charged. I replaced the stator now it’s not firing. The only problem I found was a wire in the new stator for the crank position sensor was in the wrong place in the plug. I switched it around but still no fire. Putting a meter on those wires and cranking the motor showed no voltage from the crank position sensor. Something I did or a bad “new “ part? Thanks for any ideas.
    • By Pop Bob
      I’m ready to buy a second machine. I looked at a Gator and a Mule. They are larger than I want. Something more trail size will be better. That being said, I do not wish to purchase from a big box store again. Can anyone recommend a good dealer who sells Hisun based machines?
      Also, any thoughts on a machine with enclosed cab, HVAC, and modern electronics
      Pop Bob 
×
×
  • Create New...