Quantcast
Jump to content

Trooper engine problems

troopert24x4
 Share

Recommended Posts

troopert24x4 Rookie

troopert24x4

Posted
Posted

I washed my trooper at the car wash after some fun mudding and now it does not run right. It really doesn't seem like a miss, it's like it is loosing connection or something. Even at idle it runs fine for a minute and the it starts missing but eventually it will clear up. When I drive it, I could be on the gas driving straight and the motor cuts out for a second or two and then goea again. This was on Saturday 5/2/09. I put some fuel additive to get the water out of the fuel, cleaned the air filter, and put electrical connection grease on all of the connections to the fuse boxes and engine. I also put connection grease on the spark plugs and distributor. I'm stuck and I don't know what else to check. I know a couple of other people have had this problem so I hope someone can give me some good advice. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Shop battery chargers at ChromeBattery.com
brostar Proficient

brostar

Posted
Posted

I was thinking straight off, water around the spark plugs. Going on what you have said, it is water somewhere. How about the fuses themselves. Have you taken them out, wiped them dry and sprayed WD40 or CRC? Also check the battery leads and wires coming immediately from the battery and the connectors there as well as any big fuses that you might find in this cluster. This has caused similar problems before and it was water.

Cheers and good luck with that, Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
troopert24x4 Rookie

troopert24x4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I appreciate it. The spark plugs were the first thing I checked. I pulled all of the fuses out and greased them too. I didn't dry anything before I put grease on it but I did notice the fuse boxes were wet. At one point I was up to water to my waist and it blew the radiator fan fuse. All of my battery connections are tight so I might just have to let everything dry out for a week or so and then go over everything again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Russ Explorer

Russ

Posted
Posted

I cant tell you where the connection problem is but I went through the same thing as you. I took every plug apart and put die electric grease in them and have not had a problem since. There are alot of plugs around the engine that are very hard to get to. We pulled the engine in one and greased everything. I think that the two that give the most problem may be the two O2 senser plugs that come off of the pipe. Take those apart and fill with dielectric grease and see if that helps, you may have to cut some ties to get to them. If those dont read right, nothing works right. If your going to be in the mud alot you may also want to drill a hole in the bottom of the fuse box behind the seat so water and mud can get out and we also sealed the top of the relay box on the passenger side because when you splash water or mud it will fall right on top of it from behind the dash. It needs a flap covering the back of the dash so water and mud will fall back down to the ground and not on the electronics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

I had a simular problem but it may not be revelant as mine wasn't after washing or water exposure. Did pretty much the same thing, sometimes it would go and others not so good. Turned out to be my gas filter being plugged somewhat. Must have gotten debree in it when I did my gas tank mods. Cleaned it out and it runs ok. I didn't suspect a gas problem because sometimes it would run ok for bits and peices.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BeeZee62 Enthusiast

BeeZee62

Posted
Posted

I had a similar problem and it self-corrected. However, fuse panel in the passenger side foot-well was completely submerged. I'm going to relocate that fuse box to the other side of the firewall, up on top behind the frame bar. Of course I won't be doing this until I install my liftable hood. I'm planning on enclosing the area with high density foam as well as sealing off the air vents on the fuse box cover. To the best of my knowledge, fused don't generate heat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
troopert24x4 Rookie

troopert24x4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I messed with it for an hour today and I still have the same problem. I forgot one connection on the engine so I thought that might have been the problem. NOPE!!! The engine is not cutting out as bad as it was but if I give it full throttle or if I am on a bumpy road, it cuts out more then. We have the same idea about the location of the fuse box. I hope it will fix itself because I have done just about all I can do without taking it to the shop. How long did it take for your trooper to correct itself BeeZee62?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

check the wire harness for the O2 sensor where it is tied to the radiator at the top passenger side, it may be such a short duration short that it's not blowing the fuse, Paiute 3 and I both had problems with the way the harness is tyrapped to the radiator bolt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
troopert24x4 Rookie

troopert24x4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL that is the connection I forgot about. Yes, I noticed it is extremely tight. I use extremely loosely. Should I just remove the ziptie? Was this causing yours to "cut out" too? I'm going for a big ride Memorial Day weekend so hopefully I can fix this problem before then. Thanks for all of your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted
LOL that is the connection I forgot about. Yes, I noticed it is extremely tight. I use extremely loosely. Should I just remove the ziptie? Was this causing yours to "cut out" too? I'm going for a big ride Memorial Day weekend so hopefully I can fix this problem before then. Thanks for all of your help.

Definitely remove the tie rap, it holds the wire against the radiator and wears through the wire, what it did to me was kill the engine, then it came back so I continued on with my ride, then it blew the fuse and messed up a neat trip at the Paiute Trail area and I had to be towed in, and then blew it again later because it wore through and shorted out, you were probably lucky and shorted a signal wire out instead of the power wire and that messed with the computer. Hope that was the cure to your engine problem and if you have a plastic mount bracket on connector, drill a 1/4" in the radiator support and push the mount tip through the hole. Haven't had a problem with it since. If I can find my photos of the fix, I'll post them.

Kinarfi

Found 'em 2424850630104282158GxfOVz_th.jpg 2439176430104282158yMTWOl_th.jpg Be sure to check the back side of where you drill and if I remember correctly, I had to use a right angle drill because thing were tight there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Robert B
      2021 UTV 400 going downhill something releases to "Neutral" loud Clacking noise.
      By Robert B
      Going down a 20 deg hill engine is holding UTV back. Then something releases like going into Neutral and makes a loud clacking noise. Have to use brake to slow UTV down. Then once level it shifts back into gear. Have done shift extension does not pop out of gear.
    • moto mutts
      North Rim UTV Fun Run Story
      By moto mutts
      Exploring the Grand Canyon's Majesty at the North Rim UTV Fun Run
       
      Embarking on a journey to the Grand Canyon promises breathtaking vistas, but what we encountered during the North Rim UTV Fun Run organized by UTV Offroad Adventures was nothing short of awe-inspiring. The natural splendor we witnessed transcended our wildest expectations, leaving us in perpetual wonder. 
       
      The weather was amazing! Upon our arrival at the Kaibab Lodge, we were immediately captivated by the serene setting. Nestled within a picturesque pasture with the national forest as its backdrop, this lodge was a true oasis. From the deck, where we savored cool beverages, we gazed upon the lush green grass and towering trees that stretched into the horizon. The experience was nothing short of breathtaking, offering a refreshing escape from the sweltering heat, and a chance to inhale the pure mountain air. And let's not forget the culinary delights that awaited us—mouthwatering food that was the perfect complement to the surroundings. As the evening wore on, the lodge became a hub of camaraderie, where stories flowed as freely as laughter. The Saturday night raffle event was a highlight, filled with lively exchanges and tales of the day's exhilarating rides.
       
      Speaking of the rides, both were nothing short of spectacular, showcasing the North Rim of the Grand Canyon's awe-inspiring beauty from every angle. It's a humbling experience to ponder the creation of this national monument, and it truly transports you back in time.
       
      We were joined by over 70 UTVs and 125 adventurers, all seeking the thrill of exploration amidst nature's grandeur.
       
      Bright Angel Point: A Scenic Marvel
      One of the rides led us to Bright Angel Point, renowned as one of the most picturesque spots on the North Rim. Sitting at an elevation over 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, this vantage point offered a mesmerizing panorama. To the east, the stunning Bright Angel Canyon unfolded, while to the west, Transept Canyon stretched majestically. Below, within the canyon, we could hear the roaring of Roaring Springs, a pristine source of water gushing from a cliff face 3,100 feet below the rim. The trails were a testament to nature's artistry, and each stop along the way was a spectacle in itself. This loop was around 80 plus miles and shared multiple astonishing overlooks.
       
      Point Sublime Trail: A Serene Oasis
      Our second ride took us to the Point Sublime Trail, a hidden gem known for its majestic views. This trail, less traveled by many, allowed us to enjoy the tranquility of the wilderness, punctuated only by the awe-inspiring vistas. It was a place of pure serenity, where the silence enveloped us, offering a chance to embrace the peace and quiet while savoring the views. Along the way, a chance encounter with a coiled snake added a touch of excitement to the experience, reminding us of the untamed beauty of the natural world. This loop was also around 80 plus miles with some of the best overlooks the Grand Canyon has to offer. 
       
      Acknowledging Our Sponsors
      The success of the North Rim UTV Fun Run owes much to our dedicated sponsors, whose unwavering support ensures the continuation of these remarkable adventures. We extend our sincere thanks to Nash Powersports, Realty Providers, Rugged Radios, Shock Therapy, DRT Motorsports, Dirt Warriors Accessories, Kemi Moto, MRT Tires, McDermit Designs, Campfire Sports, Bob Moses Ceramic Coating, Gorilla Whips, Gorilla Offroad, Aftermarket Assassins, Rowley White RV, Memphis Audio, Factory UTV, Arizona Color Wraps, AJE Powersports, Macs Tie Downs, and a special acknowledgment to Shred 3D for their invaluable contribution as an event sponsor.
       
      A Date for Your Calendar
      For all adventure enthusiasts, make sure to mark your calendars and bookmark UTVOFFROADADVENTURES.com. Be prepared to sign up for your next off-road escapade, as these events unfold each month, promising thrilling experiences that will keep you coming back for more. If you seek further information about upcoming events, don't hesitate to reach out to [email protected]. We look forward to seeing you on our next adventure.
       
      The North Rim UTV Fun Run isn't just an event; it's an opportunity to immerse yourself in the awe-inspiring beauty of the Grand Canyon, share unforgettable moments with fellow adventurers, and create cherished memories that will last a lifetime. Don't miss out on this remarkable experience! This event is set for July 5-7, 2024. 
       
       
       
       

































    • HighSon
      Some recent Hisun Sector 750 mods
      By HighSon
      Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy.

      Locking gas door.

      Rear view mirror.

      Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin.

      Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view.  Tailgate protector.

      Folding armrests.

      Overhead utility rack.  Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too!

      Folding rear seats.

      Dust cover and seat protector.
      If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post.  But know that everything requires some level of fabrication.  The utility rack was all custom built.  Cheers!
    • kev
      Coleman 400 splitters badly after 10 mph
      By kev
      Hi all  I have a 400 cc Coleman quad it's made by hisun I had a year it was great now it splitters badly after 10 mph . It does get better when it's not but just borks out . Can any1 help it's year is 2018 
    • Dan_Lockwood
      Front Right Tire Camber Adjustment
      By Dan_Lockwood
      If you pay any attention to your UT400, you have probably noticed that the right front wheel tips in at the top a LOT.  The left fronts seem to be about right from what I've seen.  I look at them all when I'm at different stores just to see if they're all that way, and yes, they all seem to be that way.
      There "should" be adjustments on either the ball joints or the inner pivot points, but these are solid, not way to adjust them.
      I have the UT400 up on my 2-post lift and the right spindle seems to be around 3-deg tipped in at the top and the left spindle is about straight or maybe half a degree tipped in.  This is at full suspension drop, not ride height.  I took the shocks off and rotated the spindles from bottom travel to full max up travel, way more than the shocks will allow.  The higher the spindle lift, the more tip in there is on both spindles.  This is true because of the unequal upper and lower A-arms.  It's just the nature of of the dual A-arms and them being unequal in length.
      I took the inner pivot 8mm bolts out and inserted a lot smaller 1/4" bolts and pushed the lower A-arm inward and the angle on the spindle decreased.  I then took the top inner bolts out and did the same thing, but pulled out instead.  This got the spindle equal to angle of camber on the left side.  I used the offset in the holes to see how much I need to go on the lower alone.  I was also concerned about bottoming out the axle assembly because the spindle centerline will not be a bit closer to the front diff.  But as it all turned out, it was not close to bottoming out.
      I cut about 1/4" out of the two 1" A-arm tubes as they were welded to the lower ball joint mount casting.  I tack welded them back together and trial fit it all together.  That seemed to be about right.  I took it all back apart and welded it up solid.  Now it all looks to match the left side quite well.
      Also want to use this in our yard and the stock tires are NOT turf friendly, especially with the solid "spool" rear differential.  I found these on Amazon, 25x12-12" and 25x8-12" hard pack race tires as they're called.  They're 6-ply and tubeless.  The initial probably I had was that the size rating was not even close to the actual size.  They said, install and then recheck the diameters and I did.  They did get larger, but the rears are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the side wall stamping.  Instead of 25", they're 23.75" tall.  What I DON'T WANT are shorter tires.  I had already purchased the used wheels at 12" to match the original factory diameter, but in hindsight I would now opt for 14" wheels with 4x110mm bolt pattern and would have been able to find a tire in the 27" diameter range a lot easier and cheaper.  Live and learn they say.
      Here are some pictures of before and after.
       









  • Gallery Images

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...