Quantcast
Jump to content

Electrical Issues


mikemc53

Recommended Posts

Hi gang, need a little help here. I'm posting here instead of the specific UTV forum because the questions /problems I have are probably not specific to any particular model or brand and sorry for the length but wanted to give some background. For the record, my UTV is about 10/11 years old and it is a Trail Wagon 200, which I believe became American Landmaster. I've had it since it was new and I only use it in the summer/fall as I live out of state the rest of the year. It's lightly used for small projects around the property and to run out to the mailbox about 1/2 mile away. Winterize it every fall and remove the battery which is place on a battery minder. Never had any issues until late last year when the battery (I believe it was the second one) died and I bought a replacement. Well, the replacement died in less than a week so I figured I had some other issues. Checked everything and found no apparent shorts or bare wires so I returned the battery and bought a different make. Same thing, about a week and it was done. I hooked up my tractor battery to it and it was fine but it was not really a good fit so I tried one more time with a proper fit battery and it lasted the rest of last season and up until now everything was fine. About a week ago I was driving and it sputtered, one time, so I payed no attention and added some Sea Foam. A few days later it was running and started sputtering real bad - barely firing -  and it definitely seemed electrical. It sputtered for about a minute and would not move and then smoothed right out and ran fine. But, after I shut it off it was done. I checked the battery and it said it was around 11V so I figured I had better find this electrical problem. The battery charged right up to a bit over 13 but every time I tried the key...nothing and the battery showed low again. Pulled out one of my tractor batteries, which was fully charged and the same thing. No lights, no start but I do have power at my auxiliary accessory plug and when I disconnect my ignition switch (3 wire) I have power coming to it. I get no power across the terminals of my brake interlock, but I don't know if I am supposed to have it there. Something dumps the batteries down to around 11, though I do still get that 11V at the accessory plug and coming into the ignition. No lights at all and no sound from the solenoid or starter, though I thought that one time I heard a very faint click back there somewhere but only once.

Any help is appreciated. I am not sure how to check the regulator, solenoid or starter so suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shop battery chargers at ChromeBattery.com

Sounds like you have a pretty large short.

I'm not familiar with that model so this will be real general:

I would hook a voltmeter to the batt and start removing fuses and replacing one at a time. That should help to track down the short circuit. When the vtage pops back to "disconnected batyery voltage" you have figured out which circuit the short is on. Once you figure out which circuit it's on you can go from there.

I would recommend using an ammeter in series, but if the draw is dragging the batt down to 11v instantly it's probably well in excess of the 10 amps most meters can handle.

Any chance the manual has an electrical diagram in it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been trouble shooting similar problems on my PU truck. I came across a method to test for parasitic current draw by measuring voltage drop across your fuses. You need a good digital voltmeter that can measure millivolts and a chart for your fuse type and amp rating.  When you get a voltage reading above 0, there's a current draw. then look up the voltage read on the chart for that specific fuse.  On a UTV I'd think the draw with the key off would be pretty minimal over all. For my truck, the suggested total parasitic draw to keep the computers running with the key off is something like 50 milliamps or less, a UTV is probably less. If you find a high draw, then you've isolated the problem circuit. The technique description and charts for the fuse types can be found here...  https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/how-to-perform-a-parasitic-draw-test/

Caveat, I just found this information, and haven't tested my truck. But, having an electrical engineering background, I find the theory solid.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's some good ideas here in this thread. But I think that everyone has missed the part about how it's dying WHILE  it's being driven.

That means that it's not putting out enough power to run itself.

A short that big, would easily drain the battery very quickly. It would be dead as a doornail after a couple hours, creating a no start situation. My idea is that you should check for power at the source. See if it's generating enough power to keep it running.

Check the voltage at the battery, while it's running. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By redneckred
      Got a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700x (I believe) from a neighbor that had it sitting in his yard undisturbed for over 2 years.  We pulled it across the road to my house with the transmission stuck in low.  I tinkered and discovered the fan gear assembly had frozen up from not being used, specifically the part that slides/turns in the housing.  After freeing that up, the transmission shifts fine.  I put a fresh battery on it and discovered 12.2 volts going to the solenoid, and with the key in the on position, 12 .2 volts on the starter side of the solenoid without turning the key to the crank position.  I discovered at the starter the same results of a constant 12.2 volts in the on position.  Cranking, the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid and at the starter drops to 11.72v.  Shouldn't there not be any voltage on the other side of the solenoid  or at the starter if the key is not in the crank position?  And with the constant voltage at the starter and it not turning, isn't it safe to assume the starter is frozen/burned out?
    • By Phil S
      I have a Massimo Buck 450 and last winter I had the snow plough added by my dealer. After about 15 minutes of ploughing the plough went down but would not lift up. Upon inspection, it appears that the winch is permanently in the free-spool. When you try to wind back in the spool just spins. It is out of warranty and upon looking at replacing I am not sure how I would go about it.
      Has anyone had similar issues?
      Has anyone replaced it with a new winch? is so what model and how was it installed?
      Any help is welcomed.
       
    • By SteveMO
      Folks:

      I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming).   My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
      I've been using a  pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.

      Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.

      I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse.  If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do.  This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.

      So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:

      Gotta have:
      2 passenger (1 row)
      selectable 4wd
      Power steering
      Selectable gearing (not CVT)
      Power-assisted dump bed
      Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime.  Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
      Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight.  Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.

      Really want:
      Selectable locking diff
      Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension.  Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
      Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
      Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds.  Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".

      Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
       
    • By jewettperkins
      Does anyone know the part number for the stator and flywheel on the 2015 intimidator 750 gas? It has a kohler Ech730-3036 engine. 
    • By Robert B
      Going down a 20 deg hill engine is holding UTV back. Then something releases like going into Neutral and makes a loud clacking noise. Have to use brake to slow UTV down. Then once level it shifts back into gear. Have done shift extension does not pop out of gear.
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...