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Latest Posts
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Gotcha, well keep us updated when the new coil shows up -
#6 Coil showed .5 and 6.98, so it seems to be bad. Concerning step 8 I could not find any connections wrong. Also, I tried a continuity test on the plug wire and there wasn't any. I found a coil and wire on Ebay for 30 bucks. At Coleman Powersports they were around 100 dollars. -
My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears? -
I forgot to mention that when the sound starts (as if the gears are skipping, or something like that, it's really loud) and when that sound starts I have to brake in place and then the sound disappears and when I start again everything is normal, it happens when I drive in H, it seems that the sound is coming from between the rear differential and the gear shifter, but I'm not sure. Sometimes it is not heard for a long time, I can drive for a couple of hours and it is not heard and then suddenly that terrible sound appears. -
Ok next up step is #6 on the instruction pictures I posted above: Checking the ignition coil. The ignition coil you can find by following the spark plug lead. Test primnary and secondary as directed in the picture above step #6. As far as step 8: Contrary to the manual I don't believe there's a magneto coil on these EFI units, the ignition coil is driven directly by the ECU. This step should be something like "verify crankshaft position sensor" but thats going to require an oscilloscope or HUD Ecu hacker & Cables & a PC. You can at least verify that the sensor is plugged in correctly. Plug is the wires coming out of the passenger side of the crankcase. Should be a 4 pin square plug (IE 2x2) Let me know what you find and we can continue from there
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