Trooper Won't Start

[BeeZee62]

Well, I've been really busy for the past month and haven't had an opportunity to go for a ride. Had the time today, went out and my Trooper won't start. All the electrical accessories work, the fan runs but when the key is turned to the start position there's nothing. I've checked all the fuses and they're all fine. I thought maybe the battery was a bit low so I charged it up .. still nothing so I bought a new battery .. still nothing.

Any ideas folks?

[Kinarfi]

I've had that happen to me, but never at home and I just kept trying the key and wiggling the key, I suspect it is something in the key switch, but I have had the solenoid click but not start also, again I just kept trying and eventually it worked and kept working for quite a while, it's been one of those problems that you can't fix until it becomes permanent.

Kinarfi

[jamesrulz]

Does the engine crank and not start or not crank at all? If it does not crank check for power on the small wire that goes to your started sylinoid when the ignition is in the start position if there is power there its your starter if not work your way to your ignition switch.

[ksimpsy]

I have had this problem I even put a 650cca battery in but what i had to do is take a metal object (pry bar) and jump the 2 posts on the starter. just a bump will do it then try the key it should work. Make sure you don't touch the bar to anything like the intake, only the main power and the solenoid wire. there will be sparks and im sure you guys figure im a dummy but what i have found is that when the starter sits for awhile (especially if your in mud and water) it sticks the brushes and wont do anything but for some reason a good solid 12V to the solenoid will jar it loose.

Kevin

[Kinarfi]

Sound about right actually, maybe disassembling the starter and making sure everything is free (brushes) should be on the to-do list.

[BeeZee62]

Thanks for all the responses folks ... I've gotten it started. I placed a screwdriver across the two contacts on the solenoid et voila ... it started!

Now my problems are overheating and low oil pressure. All fluid levels are at the proper marks. I went for a short 3 mile ride on nice level ground and the engine temperature was almost redlining. At idle the oil pressure is almost non-existant yet comes up when I rev the engine. This trooper is really starting to get on my nerves ... except for the fact that when it is running, it's alot of fun.

Any ideas on overheating and low oil pressure?

[mouser58]

If the gauges are electrical and everything was normal the last time you rode it, gauge problem. If they are manual, sending units probably bad.

[ksimpsy]

the temp sending unit reads 20-30 C hotter than it actually is. the oil pressure sounds like mine before. i put it to the sending unit because now i have waaayyyy to much oil pressure. i think the motors on these things is the last of our worries.

Kevin

[ChrisG]

So don't worry about the oil pressure light? My light came on strong yesterday after washing it, this morning the light was a lot dimmer. I haven't had a chance to look in the problem yet. Any ideas??

[Guest Lenny]

So don't worry about the oil pressure light? My light came on strong yesterday after washing it, this morning the light was a lot dimmer. I haven't had a chance to look in the problem yet. Any ideas??

I don't think I would just ignore it. I would at least confirm everything is all right. However I do agree with Ksimpsy. I had a problem with my radiator that not everybody had. The fan cowling was up against the radiator so the outter corners of the radiator weren't being used. I had to space the fan out with spacers and my heating problems went away but I haven't run it hard in 110 degree weather yet either.

Lenny

[ksimpsy]

I have noticed that the light comes on after it gets washed or wet it will go away on mine after it dries out. I would like to get a whole different set of warning lights and switches that are more weather proof.

[BeeZee62]

My gauges appear to be working fine ... when I first start up everything seems normal but after running for a while the temperature gauge is almost in the high end red .... when I come to a stop with the engine still running the oil pressure is almost at zero. I don't believe this should be the case. If anyone can let me know what their normal readings are that would be beneficial. Thanks

Barry

[Guest Lenny]

My gauges appear to be working fine ... when I first start up everything seems normal but after running for a while the temperature gauge is almost in the high end red .... when I come to a stop with the engine still running the oil pressure is almost at zero. I don't believe this should be the case. If anyone can let me know what their normal readings are that would be beneficial. Thanks

Barry

I was having the same thing happen to me when I first got my Trooper. Ran fine until I ran it hard then it would show overheat and low oil pressure. Since I moved my radiator fan and trimmed its cowling, I havn't had those symptoms show up and I ran it pretty hard a few times. The only thing I haevn't done is run it hard in 100 degree + weather. Maybe I'll find out next weekend, going to coral pink sandunes.

Lenny

[Russ]

I have had the a time when a trooper wouldnt start, but you could here the solenoid clicking. If the battery falls below 12 v it sometimes does not have enough juice to pull the magnetic plunger hard enough to complete the circut to the starter. I would make sure the wires are clean and tight on the starter and that you have a fully charged battery. I have only had one heat up if the fan quits running and we run in muddy timber, I have found on 2 units, the plug for the fan was not geting a good conection. When you would turn the key on the fan would work but as you drove it sometimes it would not. I found the bad plug right below the radiator. All of the units we get usually show the oil pressure very low at idle and about 40p when your foot is on the gas.

[ChrisG]

Can you post pictures of your cowling Lenny? I have an overheating problem too but I attributed it to the location of the rad. It is pretty tight around the fan though, a little mud threw it off balance enough to hit the cowling and make an awful noise. Its funny how ALL the Joyner buggies have the rad out in the open but the SXS's don't. Right now this is on the top of my list. The grass, mud and dandelion fuzz aren't helping the heating situation either!

[Guest Lenny]

Can you post pictures of your cowling Lenny? I have an overheating problem too but I attributed it to the location of the rad. It is pretty tight around the fan though, a little mud threw it off balance enough to hit the cowling and make an awful noise. Its funny how ALL the Joyner buggies have the rad out in the open but the SXS's don't. Right now this is on the top of my list. The grass, mud and dandelion fuzz aren't helping the heating situation either!

Hi ChrisG, On mine the fan inside shroud was real long. Stock it was only 3/16" away from the radiator. I moved my radiator out aprox. 5/8". To do so, I cut 5/8" x 3/4" wood strips that I screwed to the frame holding the fan. I also cut about, If I remember correctly, 3/4" off the shroud that goes around the fan. If you look with a flashlight at your fan from the rear, you'll see a black cowling that funnels the air to the radiator. My cowling ended 3/16" away from the radiator. In mine, I cut the end of that funnel shorter so it ended farther from the radiator. There are 2 different shrouds. Mine was long, and reaching towards the radiator putting it within 3/16" from it. This severely restricted cooling air from getting to the 4 corners of the radiator. The Troopers at my dealers were about 3/4" shorter so maybe they caught this problem. When I was done, the 3/16" gap changed to aprox. 1-1/2". I don't have pics, but when you look at the sde of my radiator, what you see is the radiator, a 5/8" layer of wood then the aluminum fan mount frame.

Hope this helps.

Lenny

[ChrisG]

Sure does, thanks.

[FlyCanadianGuy]

My gauges appear to be working fine ... when I first start up everything seems normal but after running for a while the temperature gauge is almost in the high end red .... when I come to a stop with the engine still running the oil pressure is almost at zero. I don't believe this should be the case. If anyone can let me know what their normal readings are that would be beneficial. Thanks

Barry

Obviously if the oil is becoming VERY hot it will be hard to keep oil pressure, as the oil will become less viscous. My temp gauge usually shows normal even after prolonged rides (my rad is moved though) and my oil pressure shows low (almost 0 ) with the engine at idle when it is at operating temp. I have checked the oil time and time again, and its always at the perfect amount, so I have a feeling the gauges on these are not that accurate. Once I idle up the engine past 1500 oil temp comes back up to operating range (30-40psi)

Can you post pictures of your cowling Lenny? I have an overheating problem too but I attributed it to the location of the rad. It is pretty tight around the fan though, a little mud threw it off balance enough to hit the cowling and make an awful noise. Its funny how ALL the Joyner buggies have the rad out in the open but the SXS's don't. Right now this is on the top of my list. The grass, mud and dandelion fuzz aren't helping the heating situation either!

I really really wish I knew how to post pictures on the board. The simple fix is a rad relocation (as many here have already done) the hard part is creating custom braces to protect the rad incase of a roll-over. Im still in the process of making that. I have mounted my rad about half-way up the rear roll-cage and have not had issues (YET) with the water pump being unable to push fluid through the extra plumbing and up to the higher rad. The rad sits roughly where the drivers head would be for height.

[ksimpsy]

Obviously if the oil is becoming VERY hot it will be hard to keep oil pressure, as the oil will become less viscous. My temp gauge usually shows normal even after prolonged rides (my rad is moved though) and my oil pressure shows low (almost 0 ) with the engine at idle when it is at operating temp. I have checked the oil time and time again, and its always at the perfect amount, so I have a feeling the gauges on these are not that accurate. Once I idle up the engine past 1500 oil temp comes back up to operating range (30-40psi)

I really really wish I knew how to post pictures on the board. The simple fix is a rad relocation (as many here have already done) the hard part is creating custom braces to protect the rad incase of a roll-over. Im still in the process of making that. I have mounted my rad about half-way up the rear roll-cage and have not had issues (YET) with the water pump being unable to push fluid through the extra plumbing and up to the higher rad. The rad sits roughly where the drivers head would be for height.

I just built a roof over my rad when I moved it. I figure it should be fine considering it is below the roll bars for the most part.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2339851360104844937yxWjbS

[FlyCanadianGuy]

I just built a roof over my rad when I moved it. I figure it should be fine considering it is below the roll bars for the most part.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2339851360104844937yxWjbS

Why does your rad look so different on the front? Did you add some kind of metal mesh to it? Also, which way do you have your fan going? Blowing THROUGH the rad or PULLING air through it?

[ksimpsy]

Why does your rad look so different on the front? Did you add some kind of metal mesh to it? Also, which way do you have your fan going? Blowing THROUGH the rad or PULLING air through it?

I have door screen over the front to keep out mud and bugs. the fan is pulling right now but i reverse the wires for winter, it actually works OK for a heater. Do you not have trouble pulling coolant from the overflow tank when the unit cools? i couldn't get mine to suck so i had to move the tank.

[Kinarfi]

Here's what I did to space the radiator out, 2 1/4-20 nuts and 2 washer with a fender washer on the inside. I put the original screws back in their hole and rolled the fan to give me new metal to to drill through. Then seal it up with some pipe insulation foam or something similar and black tape. No heat problems for me.

Also notice the plug for the O2 sensor that shorted out, blew a fuse and left me stranded, before I fixed it.

If I ever get around to moving my radiator, I think I'll use the roll bar tubing for my water tubing and just weld fitting to the top and bottom for connections.(maybe)

Kinarfi.

[firmskid]

I just built a roof over my rad when I moved it. I figure it should be fine considering it is below the roll bars for the most part.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2339851360104844937yxWjbS

I tried to look at your rad and roof pic but there is a cat food add infront of it. when i tried to x out of the add I was redirected to some cat pics, go figure. Would still like to see your mods.

[FlyCanadianGuy]

I have door screen over the front to keep out mud and bugs. the fan is pulling right now but i reverse the wires for winter, it actually works OK for a heater. Do you not have trouble pulling coolant from the overflow tank when the unit cools? i couldn't get mine to suck so i had to move the tank.

If I try to reverse the wires on mine, it blows a fuse instantly. I havent had any cooling issues yet, but could you show me a pic of where you re-mounted the overflow incase I need to. Thanks!

[ksimpsy]

If I try to reverse the wires on mine, it blows a fuse instantly. I havent had any cooling issues yet, but could you show me a pic of where you re-mounted the overflow incase I need to. Thanks!

cant help you with the fuses, but if you go to the link in my last post you can see the overflow right there.

[BeeZee62]

Well, now I've lost all power. The battery is good, brand new in fact. There's power to the backside of the master switch but no power to the solenoid. I've tested the wires going to the solenoid for continuity and they're good.

Any ideas?

[Guest Lenny]

Well, now I've lost all power. The battery is good, brand new in fact. There's power to the backside of the master switch but no power to the solenoid. I've tested the wires going to the solenoid for continuity and they're good.

Any ideas?

Check the ignition switch. See if its providing power to the trminals that activate the started solenoid. if not, switch is probably bad. I would also run some wires directly to the solenoid from the battery. This should enguage the starter motor and run it. If not, run a heavy wire directly to the hot side of the starter. It's got to be one of 4 things, open circuit in the wiring to the solenoid, bad ignition switch, bad solenoid or bad starter. If it's a bad starter, I would pull it off and open it up to see if the contacts are good and working and if activating the coil sucks in the plunger. Do a process of elimination.

Lenny

[BeeZee62]

Check the ignition switch. See if its providing power to the trminals that activate the started solenoid. if not, switch is probably bad. I would also run some wires directly to the solenoid from the battery. This should enguage the starter motor and run it. If not, run a heavy wire directly to the hot side of the starter. It's got to be one of 4 things, open circuit in the wiring to the solenoid, bad ignition switch, bad solenoid or bad starter. If it's a bad starter, I would pull it off and open it up to see if the contacts are good and working and if activating the coil sucks in the plunger. Do a process of elimination.

Lenny

Thanks for the Advice Lenny. I traced all the wires back from the ignition. Out of curiosity, I bypassed the master switch and I regained power ... reassembled properly and the power was still there. But it still won't start. I used a screwdriver across the two terminals on the solenoid and there's no spark at all.

Yesterday when I had the solenoid apart there was a fine coating of grease on the inside. Is it possible that its simply not grease by an electrical conductor of some sort? I think I wiped it clean ... wondering if that could be the problem.

[Guest Lenny]

Thanks for the Advice Lenny. I traced all the wires back from the ignition. Out of curiosity, I bypassed the master switch and I regained power ... reassembled properly and the power was still there. But it still won't start. I used a screwdriver across the two terminals on the solenoid and there's no spark at all.

Yesterday when I had the solenoid apart there was a fine coating of grease on the inside. Is it possible that its simply not grease by an electrical conductor of some sort? I think I wiped it clean ... wondering if that could be the problem.

The grease shouldn't be a problem. Short of going through a long explaination of how to test the starter and solenoid, why don't you pull your starter and try going to a Auto Zone of other national auto parts store with it. They typically have a tester right in the store that can test it for you for free. Lets start there if we can and let me know. If this isn't possible, let me know and I'll try to step you through testing it yourself.

Lenny

[BeeZee62]

Well I thought I had the starting issue all sorted out but it started happening again. Turns out the starter itself was bad so I had to replace it. Works great now. Thanks for all the help and advice though folks, greatly appreciated.