Tinman

Plus, you need to learn how to weld... EDIT by Kinarfi - - - - I need a lot of things, Plus, somewhere I said no criticizing or I would delete your post, actually need to learn MIG welding, better, but at least the cracks and separations are gone / buried.

Thanks again Lenny. I'll check all connections this Friday. I'm wracking my brains trying to think this through, especially because when the RPM gauge was acting weird the engine itself was revving fine except for the idle issue. In other words, the RPM gauge wasn't reading the revs properly and it appeared that whatever was causing the issue was also affecting idle. At the moment, it's working fine, which makes it near impossible to find. On an internet search, I did find the IAC failure affecting the RPM and idle on a car, but the car was over-revving and there was little mentioned as to the cause.

I did Kinarfi, and I know I can disconnect the IAC (By the way, can anyone post a pic of it?). The issue is that I only have idle problems when my RPM gauge gets jerky, which tells me something more serious is going on.

Can you send me that Kinarfi? For some reason, I can't copy the diagram... [email protected] AND, I wish I had seen this before I ordered the fuse box.

My T2 stopped idling today, but something else happened that I haven't found on any thread: The RPM gauge was erratic. It seemed jerky at times, and this happened at the same time my idling went. As I returned home, sometimes the guage / idling worked fine, sometimes not. Any ideas?

A relay is an automatic switch that is used when you need high current (such as to my rad fan) but do´t want to run heavy wires all along the circuit. The fuse box behind the seat has them - they're little squares with 4 prongs. (many relays have 5) My fan relay melted. I'm buying new high quality relays and connectors that come with a little tab to hang them from, plus I bought this (but am still waiting for it to arrive): http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649 I liked the dust cover. Getting a fusebox from the junkyard means that it won't be waterproof and you'll need to splice in your lines to the existing ones. When I'm done, I'll have a neat row of relays and this. It's possible your ECM wire inside your fuse box and behind your fuse has melted (like my rad fan wire did) and has soldered a few strands on to the next wire. By the way, if you upgrade your relays (which I suggest) you can get 5 pronged ones too - just make sure the number on each prong matches from the old relay to the new

Just an added thought: I also used apexi fuel and boost controllers when I played with my turbocharged cars. They were easy to install and manage, allowing on the spot changes. In this case, a fuel controller would likely work really nice, and look cool too, what with the digital gauges. This REALLY brings back memories...One day....

Lenny, I always used dynajet powercommander for all my fuel injected bikes, and was offhandedly wondering on how I could get one for the trooper. The setup was super easy, and I'm sure you could get one for an engine with 4 injectors, instead of the 8 all my bikes had. Software is super easy, and the wiring was relatively simple. The module keeps a record of the 02 readings, allowing for adjustments. I haven't phoned dynajet simply because its out of my budget, and there are more important things to do before I fiddle with power settings, but still... I do remember the dynajet costing me about 300... Noc, you have to find the short. It'll only get worse. I'm goin Lenny's route - I've ordered a bew fusebox to replace the rear seat one and will be hanging all my relays off the back wall. NOTE TO ALL: Replace all your fuses with decent stuff, from bosch or whatever. My problems started with crappy fuses that didn't burn out when they should.

I wouldn't quite go that far Rocmoc. First Kinarfi has to build a T2 like Lenny's. Then he can dethrone him. Still, ain't it great that we non-mechanics can do stuff like this?

Wow! Thanks for posting, I'll be visually checking my frame on a regular basis.

So, any pics?

"Cracked" by this you mean the frame? Or worse? If its the frame, Grab a bottle of decent wine, enjoy with wife, then enjoy wife. Start over in the morn. If its worse, I know where we can get explosives...

Lenny, you DAWG! That thing must fly! Did you change the gearing on the tranny to compensate for extra boost at your low end, or is the gearing stock?

So that means you got rid of the aluminum shroud that the old fan was bolted to... Did you see an improvement with the new fan w/o the shroud? You mentioned intercooler. Are you running a turbo? Ir is this an oil cooler?

Huh. Never thought of that. I'll check wiring tomorrow when I use it again...

How do you run the fans - as a pusher and puller on each side of the rad?

I've double checked everything I can think of, and can't find the reason for the fuse to keep melting, except for the fact that all I can buy here are cheap chinese fuses. It could simply be this. The fan motor was very hot after about 10 minutes of use. This might be normal, or not. I have nothing to gauge it against. It was uncomfortable to hold, but not impossible (I have thick calluses). To date: Replaced burnt ends, moved one fuse out of fuse box (damaged box) Tightened fuse clips upgraded fan fuse to 30A (still really hot) New fan relay (bosch), also gets hot checked wiring to fan - nothing Have purchased: New fan new fuse box will be purchasing decent relays and moving relays and fuses over to new box / setup

Lenny, does the fan motor you purchased on ebay tell you the amps it draws?

Huh. k. $100 plus shipping for new fan... makes me think. Might try a longer ride tomorrow to see if anything goes funny...

Well, that puts my mind at ease. I'm guessing that in this case the shaft might not have been heat treated properly.

No green on the terminals, and other than burned wires, nothing seems to indicate water...

Near as I can tell, both the fan and fuel pump wires get too hot inside the fusebox. The new fan relay feels hotter than the other relays too, but it could simply be the fan pulling more amps. Things have gotten hot enough to damage some wiring and fuse connectors, which in turn heat things up even more. I'm adding external fuse holders to see how things turn out. I'm suspicious that the fan is pulling too many amps, possibly from some internal short, but I can't be sure. Just in case, I'm ordering this: http://www.ffdynamics.com/FFD14B.html QUESTION: When i start my engine, my fan turns on and stays on, which is weird. When a water temp sensor fails, the fan usually stays off until the engine overheats.

Is the stock rad fan known to fail? Trying to decide if I should replace. Everything is working now, but the fuse did blow...and relay...(likely water entering - won't happen again)

WOW. Fascinating. How the hell did you do that? And more importantly, will it happen to me?

Ahhhhhh... I'll check that too come tomorrow...