Tinman

Thanks Lenny, you pull through as always. Actually, I think I found the issue, and it was after I checked against grounding as you suggested. It's dark now, so I'll work on this tomorrow. My new replacement bosch relay has 86 and 30 switched compared to the old relay. I plugged in the wires thinking I'd put them in the same spot without actually checking the pin numbers. I had no idea these can be different from relay to relay. In fact, while searching bosch relays on the web, every example I found has the pin numbers the same as the old joyner relay. My new bosch relay is def different...

In another thread, I mentioned my rad fan doesn't work. On my last trip out, the selenoid melted and the rad fuse melted slowly, causing the rad fan wire behind the fuse to overheat. Pulling out the wire (light blue/red) it's the same wire that works its way to the fan motor. I can connect it to the positive terminal on the battery and the fan works fine. Here's the issue - replaced the fuse and selenoid and the fuse popped. I'm guessing a short somewhere, but I can't find it. Here's what I did: I pulled the harness line all the way to the fuse box. This harness includes: fuel pump wiring, oil pressure sending unit Ground water temp gauge rad fan I continuity checked all these lines and cross checked them, seeing if continuity leaked somewhere else. No continuity leak anywhere. and a separate line branches out, which I can discount for a short for this reason:. I disconnected everything on the main line and connected everything but the pump one by one. The fuse never blows when turning ignition on except when the rad fan is connected. As you know, the plastic hose wrap is one piece, so to visibly check the wires is difficult, but I'm guessing there's a short in the rad fan motor. However, the rad fan works when connected directly. This leaves me stumped. Should I get a new ebay fan?

Change the rad fan to a higher end unit, and move or add a warning light to somewhere visible, instead of under the steering wheel. My fan just went today, with 2800 miles on the joyner clock. Luckily, the gurgling of coolant coming out of the reservoir let me know things were too hot before serious engine damage (I hope - checking tomorrow).

I had a test printed out about 5 years ago on Royal Purple and a number of other oils. Because of my high performance motorcycles, I was very interested in quality oils. Royal Purple ranked low on a number of factors. I have the info back home in Canada and out of reach, but I do remember that Amsoil synthetic ended up being my choice.

Now that everything is adjusted as near as I can, another issue has crept up. On 4x4, the rig pulls to the right bad. On 2x4, I'm fine. Did the upgrade front and back. Raised it up, and front end feels fine, both in 2x4 and 4x4. Any ideas?

Lenny, what's the story with the upgraded diffs? If you want, you can om me... Thanks

Haha. Good ol Lenny. I got mine off with an 8' pry. Nearly knocked my cheek off my face when it slipped the first time. Patience. And it helps if wife gets you angry.

It's kind of hard to see what its worth if they're saying, "It's great, Buy it!" but we have no idea what it looks like. It can be a work of art, or look like junk...

Done! Adjusted most everything, and need to lube my rear locker cable. NO MORE NOISE!!!

Skoda makes a new car with a 3 cyl diesel. The 1.2 litre engine makes 83 freakin miles per gallon. http://www.nextgreencar.com/view-car/27146/SKODA-Fabia-Estate-Diesel-Manual-5-speed I want the engine for my VW Spacefox. I know, the name is curious, but I was told they named it after Spaceballs. In all seriousness, yours is an awesome machine and you obviously know your stuff. When I worked in Canada, I had open access to all the (idle) machines in the tool and die shop I worked in, and had tons of fun fabricating pieces for my motorcycles. Now, I have a file and hacksaw, and a local machine shop with a half-dozen machinists with no tools, and unable to read them even if they could. I've worked on their machines at times, but they have NO MILLING MACHINE. How can they have a machine shop without a milling machine??? The owner doesn't even know WHAT IT IS. EGAD.

Not drooling that much, hehe. If I weren't here full time volunteering at my own cost, I'd be back home. With my Ducati.

To Rocmoc: When I took everything apart, I was astounded that tiny plastic gears (especially the one with the 5/16 drive gear) is what pushed a high tension pin in. It lasted 2k. I'm impressed. I expected it to last 2 minutes. This wasn't water damage, it was cheap design. I find better quality gears on toy cars, and it's uncharacteristic of the quality of everything else. Of course, this is IMO. Lenny is the tech guru, maybe he has a better idea of what these gears can take. To Joyner Performance: You can't expect anyone to buy something on word alone - i.e. it's great! You need to provide pics of what people will be purchasing. To Lenny: I'm still drooling over your machine.

Lenny, Kinarfi, Muchas Gracias! Will be doing this tomorrow. I'm sure this was the problem. For everyone else reading this thread, look up the pinned thread - it's a definite must do before anything gets screwed up in the diffs

That's a possibility that I didn't think of before. My 4x4 electric motor was failing. Now I have a manual system I made put in, but haven't tried it on 4x4 yet. Will do that Sat. Thanks Rick!!!

Ok, just the basics: On 2x4 everything is fine. Once I put it into 4x4, everything goes well for about 1 mile, then bang like a hammer strike on metal. This repeats itself, worse on paved roads, less on rocks. It sounds like it's in the front, but I can't really tell. At one time, the buggy was pulling to the right just before the bang, but now I get nothing. Figured it was the bolt holding the lower A arm not clamping properly. I've shimmed both diffs with Lenny's kits. I've raised the rear and checked for anything odd. Did same for front. Turn one wheel, opposite wheel turns in opposite direction as it should. Both front band back diffs feel fine. Checked alignment, and it checks out ok. Suspicious it might be front diff cus it only happens on 4x4, but don't know. Any ideas?

Ahhhhh. Makes sense. I thought it was yesterday, haha

Steve, it's near impossible to reach you - both by phone, and your deactivated email. I have a list myself of things I want, but... When you list the parts on ebay, can you send us a link?

[email protected] They've supplied tons of stuff to me. Very reasonable shipping.

Mopartist, are you still using the stock bolts holding your ball joints in place on your suspension arms? Change them before it's you loose a wheel.

I'm in RAIN and MUD country. Here are some mods I did to my fenders (cus of wife) doors (cus of wife) and... well, you get the idea. I removed the plastic covering over the engine and replaced it with checkerplate aluminum with a storage compartment and backward facing seat. Then I used the plastic cover for the fenders, which work well. The doors fold up and away, and the hard windshield can be removed in 3 minutes. I have a soft windshield to use in summer months which is permanently attached on the inside.

Do you have a webpage? I'd imagine you'd have to use a lever system at the differential, as the pin is springloaded to come out, not in. I already have a home-made system in place, but would prefer somthing better. I'd like to make sure of what I'm buying before I actually do purchase it. Can you send me a pic to my email paul_neto (at) hotmail (dot) com The other option is to put this listed for sale on ebay, and send me the link.

Can you attach pics?

Thanks Joyner performance, I'll take a look. I've received a PDF from joyner on the new system, as per attached file. It's in Chinese, but the diagrams are clear. It's an easy build, or oyu can order the parts by part #. I've decided to use a threaded rod to activate the pin. Once it's all done I'll send in pics. At the moment, I've cut the electric housing enough to allow me to turn the main gear BY HAND to connect or disconnect the 4x4. _TR1100.pdf

Tempting, but it still has the cheap plastic gears, right? Or has it been updated? I've worked a simple system to switch from 2x4 to 4x4. I'll be rigging it up in the next few days and will post pics. Why don't you put it up on ebay? I'm sure it'll sell.

I've already downloaded the 08/09, but the lockout doesn't show up - only the electric. I was hoping a later version would include the lockout, together with parts #s