Travis

that's probably the case as i'm not finding anything.

Another question for the UTV Board populace, anyone know if a plexi glass hardcoat is available for purchase? I know They sell windshields with a hard coat to prevent future scratches but is it cost effective or even possible for a average Joe to do this?

It's done it with 3 different solenoid, but that is a good idea. Test, don't assume.

So i guess if the ignition switch don't work i'll start on new wires for the starter circuit and connections.

I ordered a knock off ignition switch the other day, supposed to be here in a few days.

I looked up the original MSRP and it was $14,199, at 628 hours, if it has been well taken care of and fluids changed when they're supposed to, i'd say it should have plenty of life left. You can probably get another 1,000 hours out of the engine, at least. And it's not like Polaris is going out anytime soon so parts should be readily available when it does break down.

did you replace the head gasket?

the Original MULE windshield is 20 years old, and has seen better days. It's filled with tiny scratches. and it's foggy while day driving and hard to see at night with the lights on. Well, Novus 2 fixed that! https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=novus+28oz&qid=1615663960&s=automotive&sr=1-4 my windshield looks almost 99% new, i was astonished at the difference. i tried it on a small area first to be sure of no adverse affects, and then did the entire both sides of the windshield and it looks great! I highly recommend it, and it's way cheaper than plexi or Lexan sheet. post some pics later.

okay so this is funny, Starter clicked today, so i decided to, while the was held in START, to wiggle some wires around, first i started where the ignition switch plugs in, no worky, then wiggled and pulled at the relay, no worky. i got back to the solenoid, to wiggle the trigger wire. the trigger wire was warm and the solenoid was HOT. i couldn't lay a finger on it. starter was warm, but it felt like residual engine heat. so, wonder why the starter solenoid was that hot? the whole time of wiggling wires, before i discovered it was hot was about 10 seconds. the relay was also a bit warm. i felt of the main + and - cables on the battery and they were cool. EDIT: Went out to start it again, and it hit, so i held the key down for about 15 seconds and it didn't get hot, like before.

new cable there also

i also checked voltage on the 2 wires going from the key switch plug in, to the relay plug in, when i turn the key on, it shows 12.45 volts, when i turn to start it goes up to what the battery reads currently, 13.2. same for trigger. of course who knows how many amps it's getting, its probably not a whole lot of amperage, its only 18 or 20 gauge wire. so probably around 4 amps or so? One thing i can say for certain, is after replacing the big main + cable, a few weeks ago, the issue is nowhere near as persistent as it was for awhile.

Same for the trigger wire from the relay plug in to the end of the wire at the starter.00.1 ohms

I ohmed the 2 wires that come from the key switch to the relay, Both showed 00.1 ohms, Keep in mind this didn't test the key switch as the switch plugs in to the harness, so i had to in plug it and measure from the female harness end to the relay plug in end.

Not sure, your best bet would be to contact your local Coleman/HiSun dealer. However, my Mule calls for SAE 90 (hypoid, API GL5) in the manual, however kawasaki sells 80W-90 gear oil for it.

Howdy!

LOL!

I don't think i posted this, but the other day when it acted up, i unplugged the trigger wire, and got a screwdriver and went from the BIG + on the Starter solenoid, and shorted to the trigger TAB on the starter solenoid. And of course that big + is able to provide more amperage than the trigger is. it started right up. and the way this starter system works is when the trigger gets voltage, it pulls the solenoid in and the solenoid has a piece that pushes the starter gear out to mesh with the flywheel, now of course the flywheel and starter gear aren't going to be properly aligned every time, so the starter gear is free to spin one way independent from the starter shaft. If the solenoid is getting enough power through the trigger, it should be enough force for the gear to move enough to mesh with the flywheel, i think instead the trigger isn't pulling the solenoid hard enough and when it isn't meshed just right, it can't overcome that friction. I could just start doing like Fred Flintstone.... cut the floor board out of it, LOL

That's what I'm thinking next, I'm going to look at the wiring diagram , see if I can figure out which wires supply voltage to the relay, and ohm the wires, and then check voltage on it. New keyswitch from Kawi is $70.00 so ill probably slap a CCP part on it.

Well it's probably not the relay, got the new relay in, it plugged right in, no modification required, and I had to turn the key 3 times for it to finally engage and turn over. (This was also the first time starting it today)But ill leave it on for now and keep the old one.

Do you think this exhaust would fit my mule? 2001 MULE 550 KAF300C5 model. LOL

no problems today.

check out PowersportsID, they have a wide selection of All terrain tires.

Yeah, those starters are kind of heavy to be chunking around, lol!