Jarrad

You guys know you like the trooper better

I have all those manuals and more rescued from tjusa before it went down. I also have all the stuff from the dealer only section.

I am working on that at the moment. Maybe a little bit coming but working on getting the stick specs for cam right now once I have that then we can see where we need to make improvements. Another thing I need to do is get some putty and measure valve to piston clearance in stock configuration to see how much lift we can add without risk of contact

Yes the new Joyner shocks will transfer weight much more efficient. And cures the problem almost wholly

If I don't have it I can get it.

Here is the first engine apart.. nothing to see here but a bunch of ingested dirt

On 1/23/2011 at 10:49 PM, Kinarfi said:

This ought to relieve your worries and it sure made my job a lot easier, hey snow man, are all the oil pans glued on with silicone, I've often thought that my rig was one that was returned or something.

 

All the previous pictures will have a broken picture symbol because I deleted the album and started over because everything was out of order, but only the last few mattered plus I gave them all a new name.

Any way, it's out and on the table, tomorrow the head comes off, as soon as I read up on how to release the tension on the timing belt. probably in the manual, but if someone wants to post it, I'll read it.

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Oh ye, check the last 4 photo for my timing resetting trick.

I may have a problem, I was planning on NOT pulling the pulley of the end of the crank shaft if I don't have to. Is there a way to remove the tension on the timing belt with out pulling the pulley and lower half of the timing belt cover?

Go ahead and pull the lower pulley.. once you get bolt loose then pully will slide off in your hand. that way you can see your lower timing mark.. also loosen the bolt on the tensionerand it will loosen the belt. I don't see any reason since you have the engine out and apart not to replace that timing belt.

They are all Siliconed on there is no gasket. Most car manufactuers do this to save money and create a better seal. I will usually remove the head in the buggy then lift the engine out by hand with a little help from a worker. as far as timing goes don't worry about it, just once you pull the belt try not to rotate the motor incase you have a valve in a downward position. The motors are suppossed to be interference motors, although you couldn't tell by my incredible luck at the meet lastyear. The timing marks on the engine and pulleys are cleary defined. We have one engine out right now at the shop and another coming out this week, customer brought us a unit with 60 miles on it that he dunked in the water and hydrolocked it. Some hillbilly tried to fix it, had cam timing all off and everything else. but the kicker is he did not notice the #3 piston was .120" below #2.. sure sign of a bent connecing rod. I will have to get pictures of the carnage as soon as he gives us the ok to pull it out and apart.

The problem is They did not use the same wiring color day to day

I have not done it, but I have felt same thing. Maybe check the nitrogen in your shocks make sure they are topped off, then check your preload.

Why not move them to one post called greatest Joyner info forever

Wonder what it would cost for some billet steel ones

Sounds good

Yes only 4 bolts and 2 starter bolts. Also remove the crank sensor so it does not get damaged. You may have already I have not looked at your pictures

EDIT -- Kinarfi -- Don't forget the clutch cover bolted to the transmission on the underside.

I have a motor out right now let me post a few pictures in a bit

Are these modified stock ball joints?

Not sure if that came out wrong or what, I was not trying to sound condescending or anything but that is about the simplest terms he could have put them in

Not sure if that came out wrong or what, I was not trying to sound condescending or anything but that is about the simplest terms he could have put them in

Those are sand spider right hand axles. I assume they fit some euro ford but there is no part number to try to cross

He did. It is a complicated system without any knowlage, but it still a hard thing to comprehend sometimes. I myself have been lost numerous times. But like he said if you can get it all working correctly it works great, but say if we add displacement on a sd system you have to rework the be table, where as a mass air system will work it's self out. The both have thier pros and cons and for a racing application the sd system shines, where a mass air system is geared more for the average Joe

I saw that. I am trying to put everything up but my storage is limited. After I toss out all the broken diffs on the floor it is all being moved there

Axles anybody?

That looks easy enough to do. Makes me look at all those 4 and 6 piston calipers Off the harleys we convert into trikes in a whole new light

What I would like to see is a mass air conversion kit for a joyner. I know the SR2 sand rail at the shop with the 2.0l chery motor is a massair fly by wire system.

The way Lenny makes it sound and the way it should be is that it is user tunable. I would not have a add-on ecu unless I could play with the parameters myself. Kind of like we did back in the day with our mustangs and a program they called tweeker. It allowed everything to be end user adjustable. Much like the megasquirt where you can adjust timing, injector pulse width, so on and so forth. The real problem with modifying a Joyner 1100 is that they use a speed density system, where as a mass air system is more acceptible to mods without adversely effecting performance. Mass air actually measures the incoming air and adjusts where a speed density system measures rpm, air temp, coolant temp, barometric pressure, manifold pressure, and a dew other things and guesses at what to do based on a pre programed code in the ECM. Once you change something like stroke or cam or anything else it then does not really know how much air is coming into motor so therefore it cannot compensate. This is where mass air systems shine and why every major car company has used it since the 90s. No more guessing. Now the engine knows exactly how much air is incoming and can adjust accordingly.

Jarrad