Jarrad

Hello all my old friends, it has been awhile since I have talked to anyone from here. How are things going in the joyner world?

I would not mind southern co or Phoenix area. I have friends in both.

Wish I could, but I have no ride, and I have a race to attend in Louisiana the 27th-29th. Maybe next year, but you never know, maybe bob will send jimbo there with a new Joyner or a arctic cat. Stranger things have happened

You should know there is never anyone like me

Yes methanol and nitro and a special mix of oils 30% nitro, 61% methanol, 9% oil. I bought a used motor, and when it comes in I am going to shim the head to lower compression a bit, go 2 steps colder on the plug, then try a 45% nitro 48% methanol, and 7% oil mix, since it is not my race motor, if it blows the rod out the bottom, not a big deal, but if things work well then I will work it on over to the other engine.

Ford product on a Joyner? Well there is at least one part that will be reliable I will grab some photos and vid of my truck after it stops raining and dries up a bit. I have been experimenting with mixing my own fuel, turning out well so far, although my garage work shop looks like a mad scientist was turned loose in there

Well I am just working away on boats, I picked up a new hobby, racing rc cars and trucks, I have managed to squeez 3.75hp out of my 0.21 CID engine on 30% nitro, so that's been keeping me busy, also we had another addition to the family 2 months ago so that takes up the rest of my free time. Other than that life's great on my end, how about everyone else?

Merry Christmas to you all, I hope all finds you well

I myself could slam dunk a set in about 2 hours provided I had the proper shims. Ymmv

Not that hard. Worst part is shimmimg the lifters for proper clearance

In my experience, the constant engaging and disengauging is the switch it's self when bouncing makes momentary contact. The switches are bad bad bad in the joyners.

I got photo's of everyone from last years get together. Say the word those who are in them and I will email them to the respective owners

According to chery the engine is designed to have low oil pressure at idle. Around 10-15 psi, to keep too much oil accumulating in the head, emissions reasons. 28 does not seem too low, my suburban idles at 8 psi with 25 on the high end hot. I don't see a problem.

An update, the marine industry is going great. We had a pretty hard freeze this year and alot of people forgot to winterize thier boat. Bad for them good for me. I am on my 3rd engine this last week and another 2 to go. Lots of cracked blocks and broken heads.

It is a sad day for sure, good luck in your adventures where ever they carry you

Lenny, Jeff, And Rocmoc I sent you guys an E-mail with some good info

Here is some info you requested

I accept cash, checks, credit cards, and ice cold beer

The problem you run into is when you turn the wheel the rim hits the tie rod

Then I would not worry too much on it. Whenever the engine is running there will always be a fine mist of oil in air. Going into it intake, like most vehicles do the mist will enter, hit the wall of the intake and start to form into bigger drops that could pool in the intake. I don't see as it being a problem, clean it out and run it.

I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

Everything I say is true. I can only stand by so long and watch an injustice being done to the community that has treated me so well.

And why don't you go ahead and tell everyone where those tapered ball bearings come from that you claim as your own? JMC motors.