cliffyk

2 hours ago, Patty said:

We have a Buck UTV about one year old. It makes a loud whining sound when you accelerate, regardless of what gear. (We have carefully checked and replaced all fluids, twice since we got it. ) The noise persists. Any tips on what this is caused by?

What specific model (year and engine size)?

You need to check the fuel pressure in addition to compression and spark--it should be 31 to 39 psi while cranking the engine ...

7 minutes ago, Lance Darbonne said:

Thanks Guys, the thing that was puzzling me was that the injector was sending fuel, but the spark plug remained dry, which is why i asked about valve timing, but it does make sense what cliffyk said.

When i pulled the injector, it didn't really send a fine mist, but wasn't a solid stream, but it is sending fuel.   What would cause that fuel not to go into the cylinder?

That is perplexing--Check the spark and compression. Is there a smell of gas in the cylinder? I have seen "no-start" EFI systems where the fuel just ran down the cylinder wall and into the crankcase--does the oil smell of gas?

17 minutes ago, Travis said:

dimensionally wise it looks like a fit, however it shows to have metric thread and the pic cliff linked is 3/4-10 'merican thread  

 

I was incorrect, it is M20 x 1.5 see my post above...

That looks like it might work, I was mislead by an eBay listing to believe the thread was 3/4-10--however I just measured the good filter I have--it is indeed M20 x 1.5. I corrected the dimensioned photo posted above...

Make certain they understand the need for a recessed (1/4" or so below the gasket) thread. In many motorcycle forums a common tale is "I bought an  "XYZ" brand filter at my FLAPS and that threaded on, but leaks like a sieve ...

7 minutes ago, Joe Breaux said:

Their English not too well  

My Chinese too worse...

i was bored and just reviewed the ad copy for the tie-down rings--who writes this stuff?

Oh yeah! Iron wouldn't rust...

As I alluded to above, with an engine that was  running reasonably well before a starting problem valve adjustment would likely be the last thing I'd check--just yank the plug and test the compression. If an intake or exhaust  valve is not closing tightly the cranking compression will be rather low (likely <100 psi)...

It is common on motorcycles and the like for the oil filter adapter to be secured with a largish central nut:

It is also common for many automotive oil filters to have a projecting mounting thread incompatible with such an adapter (like this FRAM filter--where the thread "bottoms out" before the seal):

.

Here are the dimensions of the Hisun filter (note the "concavish", recessed below the seal, mounting thread):

I got a properly fitting filter from Amazon for $10...

23 minutes ago, Lance Darbonne said:

Massimo 500 wont start.  Pulled the injector and when i turn the key it sprays a lot of fuel, but the spark plug is dry.  What would be my next step?  Valve adjustment?

You need three things to run an ICE: fuel (a proper air/fuel mix), compression and a spark at the correct moment. One of those is missing. 

Easiest thing to check next (if you have not yet) is for a spark. OHC valvetrains rarely wear themselves tighter (s o tight as to not close and not allow some compression)--not what I'd check next...

52 minutes ago, tsheh4 said:

Let us know how the lab report comes out. Just did my first change at 22 hours and it wasnt bad, a little dark but still fairly clean oil. 

My front diff wound up with tractor trans - hydraulic oil because thats what I had a huge pail of laying around. As far as I understand it is very similar to atf, maybe a hair thicker, but still thinner than gear oil (the hypoid oil you refered to is just gl3 4 or 5 rated gear oil as far as I know) or 30 wt motor oil.

Don't know about the tractor trannny stuff in the diffedrential? That's made for hydro-static transmissions--a whole different beast...

While the viscosity of 80 weight gear oil  is similar to 20-30 weight engine oil--that's about the only similarity, among other differences, gear oils have EP (extreme pressure) and other anti-wear additives not found in engine oils. Viscosity is actually just a small part of the story--engine oil works OK with spur gears, but is not good with the higher sliding loads produced by  spiral cut bevel ("hypoid") gears with offset axes

GL-5 is a "hypoid" rated oil (hypoid refers to the gear tooth profile --that's what most axle reduction gears are--those who toss out flap such as "hypoid oil" are Fast & Furious magazine mechanics who don't really know what they are talking about). I changed my engine oil out with STP 20W-50 Pro conventional at 17.7 hours, still clean on the dipstick at 55 hours.--good oil, ran it in my 2003 Mustang Cobra for almost 200k miles...

Here's a couple shots of mine--I had to "re-brand" it as an LSV (Low Speed Vehicle) to make the State of Florida happy (they had to do a physical inspection, I figured it would not hurt to badge it as an LSV) and get it registered:

(made it into an "Outfitter LSV" with 3D printed badges--just used that gray 3M double-sided tape to stick the low-speed placard  on; we had just been calling it "the thing"--"Thing 1" was what my great-granddaughter thought it should be called. I thought "Thing 16" as it's a "4x4", but my wife said no one would "get" it...

I have a thread re: the Briggs muffler/cheap noise reducer--works great with the end-cap perforations opened up to 5/32" (from 1/8" OEM, a 56% increase). Took it off a few days ago, just made it louder--no power change at any RPM--put it back on to make myself less obtrusive...

The flag decal is the "Bonnie Blue Flag"; of the Republic of West Florida and an early flag of the  secessionist States during the War of Northern Aggression.

That bolt was tight on mine, but i have questioned that locating spring's condition--shifts into reverse reasonably well now with the engine warm...

You are correct, the tranny is in the crankcase and lubricated by engine oil. The fuel gauge not working has been reported bu far too many--here and elsewhere, I suspected it was a simple fix. Mine had the "final assembly" loose bolts I expected and problems shifting into reverse; but other than that it's been great--got 720 miles and 55 hours on it now.

My Elegoo is a MSLA resin based printer and after almost a year of testing I have finally found a resin mix that is suitable for making actual mechanical components for practical purposes (ALL of the "cheap" [around $30/kg] "ABS-like" resins suck. They are too brittle to be of any use when fully cured--but I have been mixing Siraya Tenacious ($65/kg) and Weistek Toughness ($58/kg) 50/50 with any cheap crap and had good results.

Your switch plate just fits on my build platform:

My Coleman UT400 was built on 07/17/2020 according to the manufacturer's nameplate. I got  that same manual from Steven--it's real close but still has a number of errors and screw-ups, such as placing the spark plug under the seat and air filter under the cargo bed (the maintenance procedures echo this).

I like your 3D stuff, what printer do you have? I've got one of the plain ol' original Elegoo Mars, 120 x 68 x 165  (LxWxH) build space.

14 hours ago, tsheh4 said:

For whats its worth, I emailed Coleman about getting my MSO and the guy there was able to send me a current manual for my buggy, the one it cane with and the one on Tractor supplies website seems to be for an older model. Nothing seems to have changed except for the column mounted controls.

What model year is your 400? Does it have the rearward slanted cylinder, doe the manual indicate the correct location of the spark plug (under the cargo bed) and air filter (under the seat)?

Was it "Steven" that you contacted at Coleman--I have found him to be quite helpful...

Is it titled HS400UTV-5, like this:

I have been meaning to write this up for some time. As delivered (in late October 2020) my 2020 UT400 had the expected number of loose "final assembly" nuts and bolts, but even after tightening down everything it still had an annoying metal-on-metal rattle--one f those that was quite audible but difficult to locate. it sounded like some chassis or suspension component but I could not pin it down. So, I took to carrying a large rubber mallet with me and stopping and banging on things when it really got to me.

Eventually I tracked it down to the rear uprights for the roll cage moving about on their mounting posts. The left and right rear cage posts slip onto forged steel hubs welded to the frame and were cross-bolted with some very pretty 10 mm dia. binding post type fasteners having an 8 mm threaded internal shank (the Service Manual says they should be torqued to 48 lbf·ft but when I tried all I got was a violent and quite loud "pop" as the head ripped off the female end):

Examine the torn apart section and it's obvious why it could not handle 48 lbf·ft.

Here's how it mounts, from the service manual; 

So, I replaced both binding bolts (pretty but not up to the task) with a plain ol' 10 x 1.25 x 50 mm class 10.9 bolts and self-locking nuts; and had at torquing it again--no problems, the cage upright squeezed up tight on the forged post and the rattle was gone making me a "happy 'UTVer'"...

What you describe is a classic plain Jane CJ5 Jeep...

34 minutes ago, KentC said:

I suppose this would also be applicable to the Massimo Buck 400?

The MSU400 (which is a re-branded Hisun HS400) probably--the Buck 400 maybe not. After Hisun (Chongqing Huansong Industries (Group) &nbsp;Co., Ltd.) cut Massimo loose for poor customer service in 2018 they scrambled to find other suppliers--according to the EPA emissions certification database the 2018 through 2020 Buck 400 was made by the Taizhou Nebula Power Co., Ltd.  (<-- this is a link to their Alibaba presence, probably where Massimo found them).

The EPA certification sticker on your Buck should tell you who made it:

You need to check with Massimo...

This from Amazon ($199) says it fits 2006-2009 Left or Right. Replaces OEM# 611-04071A, 911-04071A What exact model is yours (it should have some "4xxx" model designation)?

Look in to a local automotive CV joint repair shops--there's more about this stuff that's the same than different, some sharp mechanic may look at it and say "I know what that is!"...

i think they are gone, their last EPA certification for the T4 was in 2016.

Here are 2020 Google Earth images of their 1650 E Riverview Dr. Ste 110 Phoenix, AZ 85034  location:

Per Import Genius their last shipment T4s from Asia was in February of 2007...

It appears you may be able to order on from the manufacturer; CHANGZHOU JOYNER RECREATIONAL VEHICLES CO.,LTD. if you are really in to self-abuse...

Joyner appears to be yet another example of a relatively successful ATV dealer who had a delusion of grandeur and launched a corporation to brand and market some attractively priced (for them) import ATV/UTV (probably located on Alibaba) but lacked sufficient resources ro pull it off long term. According to various corporate  records (mostly D&B) I found the  Changzhou Joyner Recreational Vehicle Co. has 50 to 100 employees with annual revenues of $1, 000,00o to $2,600,000--hardly a manufacturing giant.

Hisun USA has revenues of $9.25 M, not Yamaha or Kawasaki class certainly, but a lot more staying power. Chongqing Huansong Industries (Group) Co., Ltd. (Hisun's parent company has 1000+ employees, 9 subsidiaries and makes 70% of their parts (probably better than Ford or GM).

I'd look elsewhere...