cliffyk

The Forum's hosting service had a fire and was down from 15:00 hours on April 4--but they were back by 09:00 on the 8th--see my post here...

I just reread your original posting where you "spoke" of "...a way to disconnect the "over 10mph gas starving" safety sensor. "

The "black box" that performs the limitation is located quite visibly under the hood, on an upper frame crossmember, next to the hydraulic bake fluid reservoir-- it if wired as shown below:

Note that it receives - (ground) active input signals from both the belt and reverse gear switches--that is because the 10 mph limiter function is also active when in reverse gear (this a only obliquely mentioned in the owners manual) . Cutting either wire (pin 4 [green/blue - reverse] or pin 5 [black/white - seat belt]) will disable that function.

The various Q-Link Frontrunner models are just re-branded Hisun "HS" models, like all Hisun products they are pretty good. Some of their early (pre-2005 or so) stuff was wanting, but the later (2016+) products are pretty damned good at their price point...

"yap, yap. yap" anecdotal stories of "Chinese crap", parts quality and availability are generally meaningless to me. Years back I had a two-month old $101,000 1998 Mercedes SL500 that spent a month in the shop waiting for a convertible top controller to come from Germany--though, after a bunch of bitching, cussing and yelling the dealer  did make my payment for that month...

Resellers like Q-Link usually buy partially assembled  products from manufacturers  at a pretty slim discount (typically just 20 to 25% off MSRP) and then to be competitive resell at some lesser discount. This does not leave them much room for profit, let alone parts inventory or sterling customer support--after a few years of dwindling resources even whatever crappy customer support they had offered goes away--that's why they don't last long...

5 hours ago, cwikscan said:

I had downloaded the service manual and followed it's procedure.  Simple and seemed to help but don't ask me how.  Place transmission in N then loosen the nuts on each end of the shift rod (right side is righty loosey.  Then retighten them.

Cool...

The shift drum in the tranny has detents and a spring-loaded ball that "snap" it into the selected gear--loosening and re-tightening  the linkage in neutral allows it to re-align itself with the drum's neutral position.

The 400 does have a wet clutch, but a completely different 1-speed + reverse transmission.

Your Cadet Challenger 500 is a re-branded Hisun HS500--also sold as the Coleman UT500 and Outfitter 500--what model year is it?

There is a Service manual dated September, 2009 available in the Forum's download section (click here). It has a section with detailed instructions for adjusting shifter (curiously titled "The Reverse Mechanism"), see page 265...

-cliff-

I would first suspect the parking brake pedal position sensor--it signals the ECU to "beep" if any gear other than neutral is selected with the p-brake engaged...

Great to hear it worked out!

-cliff-

Rode 5 miles or so on the beach today, it tracks better in the deep soft sand ruts, but the back-end still wants to squirm about in the worst of it. No traction issues, it just likes to shake it's booty a bit...

I wanted to add that while re-torquing the spacers I found the OEM "acorn" style lug nuts were very nearly "bottoming out" on the spacer studs--so I cut 1/4" off eaxh. I started with a SawzAll and a Starrett bi-metal 18 pt. blade--but only got about 1.3rd way through one stud before the blade was history (I.e. these studs are HARD alloy steel)--finished them up with a 4-1/2" right-anglegrinder and cut-off wheel.

I was surprised they were that hard...

6 hours ago, KidColeman said:

Hi All,

Just picked  up a 2020 UT400 that my 80 year old father will be driving around the farm.  We purchased the machine with a few "issues" and they lowered the price accordingly.  Small stuff like passenger size mirror and back reflector was torn off by a Tractor supply employee, which we will order replacements for.  Also after further inspection, whoever assembled it did not put a few bolts in the rollcage and aren't in the glovebox, so will be having to order those also.

Anyway, there are two initial things on the UT400 I'm not sure what they are or for.  The first, there is a square white electrical connector with about 8 pins hanging form under the middle of the back bed - I don't see another one to match up or plug into it, so wondering if this is pre installed optional connection for like towing around a sprayer?  Anyone know what this is?  Also, there is a 10 inch black rubber hose that is zip tied to the back A frame on the passenger side.  I watched the assembly video and it doesn't mention one, so don't know what this hose is for - anyone know?

Also, has anyone come up with a "fix" or work around for having to have the seatbelts plugged in or even in place?  We aren't planning on using them and are figuring just plugging them in and wedging them behind the seats - didn't know if there is a way to just disconnect the "over 10mph gas starving" safety sensor.

Looking forward to seeing how this machine does for my father.   I'm thinking about installing a suicide knob on it for easier turning for him, as it's a little stiff (compared to our Kawasaki Mule).  Maybe with use it will loosen up some?

Thanks!

I think the connector you refer to is the taillight plug--does it look like this?

The harness from the lights plugs into it.

The rubber hose is a "breather" tube for the rear axle gearbox.

Re: the seat belt interlock, I have devised a "thingy" that plugs into the seat belt socket and tricks the computer into believing the seat belt is connected:

I'll send you a PM with my address, send me a SASE and I mail a couple out to you.

I have a suicide knob--wouldn't be without it:

-cliff-

1 hour ago, Alex said:

Nice! They've been around for a while, but I think its only shared hosting, no dedicate servers. We have  a dedicated self managed server so typically we are renting directly from a company that has its own data center or metal boxes. 

That is correct--it's nice to be in direct control...

I have been using DirectNIC hosting  for my site (www.paladinmicro.com) for over 20 years without a hitch. They were in New Orleans during Katrina and were humping 55 gallon druns of diesel up 9 flights of stairs to keep their generators running--not down for even a millisecond--good guys. I haven't done much with my site since I retried in late 2015 but I get my email service from them and use it for file hoisting.

On Sunday the 4th @ 3:00 pm or so their hosting service lost power and a generator caught fire triggering sprinklers.  (Read more here...)

Poor design, "sprinklers" and "data center" do not belong in the same sentence. They did get it back up in pretty good time all things considered...

Unfortunately due to the rather crude shifting mechanisms in these things (sliding cogged collars) stiff shifting when cold is normal--'cold" being not hot, not cold as in "Brrrr". My Hs400 does it going into reverse on each day's first ride regardless of how I adjust the linkage. You can try synthetic oil--it might help. I'm going to use 5W40 synthetic at my next change.

-cliff-

You never know how much you'll miss something 'til it's gone...

Advise your hosting service to install a dry (argon/halon) fire suppression system. 99.44% of the time with wet systems the water does more damage than the fire--this is true in almost every industry, but more so in server rooms.

-cliff-

Are you referring to buttons on the instrument cluster?

Could be shift linkage adjustment, or a problem with the shift drum/forks/cogs in the transmission. The idle speeed is controlled by the engine managemeny computer--it should be 1400-1500 rpm. What idle speed are you seeing?

How many miles/hours on the beast?

Does letting the engine warm just a bit (30-60 seconds) help? 

What grade of engine oil are you running (synthetic or conventional--the ttansmission is in the engine crankcase, lubricated by engine oil)?

When was it last changed?

Sorry for all the questions...

23 hours ago, Travis said:

no problems today

Cool...

9 hours ago, The Wanalds said:

Update: to MODE / SET button question  UTV is a 2019 Coleman Outfitter. 

Not familiar with the "MODE/SET" functions on your beast--what exactly are they intended to do?

Rode 10-12 miles today (off road, and straddling the right-of-way on a "main drag'"), a very different ride--it appears the +8% or so increase in the rear swing arms' effective length due to the spacers has softened the ride quite a bit ( in a positive direction). I had not expected such a dramatic and noticeable change--haven't been on the beach yet, hope that's better too...

Unless Hisun has dramatically changed the rear reducer on the 2019 Outfitter 550 it remains that it is NOT a differential at all, but rather a "solid" , "spooler" type gearbox--it has no "differential".

This i the latest (2018) diagram I have:

Due to the narrow rear track no "differential proper" is needed--it would just add complication with no benefit--and in fact reduce traction in 2WD mode...

Post a photo of your beast's rear end (the UTV, don't get wild on us) and we'll know for sure...

Bombadier, Artic-Cat and Polaris are names cemented in my mind due to growing up in Maine--in the 50s and 60s those names were synonymous with "snowmobile".

IMHO, however like most  older well established "leaders" in the vehicle  industry they fell back and sat on their fat laurels while the Japanese and Asians took over market share with both price and quality. The Asians now dominate the market for recreational vehicles--this is best evidenced by all three of the above named brands now having Asian produced vehicles in their "line-ups".

The Asian makers are doing to the Japanese recreational vehicle  industry just what the Japenese automotive industry did to the American auto industry (another example of sitting on their fat laurels while the world passed them by (most 70s and 80s US cars were absolute crap).

The early Jap  cars were the "Yugos" of the day--I remember a neighbour buying a 1958 Toyota Crown. it was the joke of the neighbourhood. But, the Japs, like all Asians, are a proud people and their response to the laughter was to build better cars.   The US auto industry is a small fraction of what it was in 1960.

But I digress (as I am wont to do); getting back to the OP's concern, buying used is always a "pig-in-a-poke". something I almost never recommend to those like my step-son-in-law who has an almost negative mechanical aptitude and intuition. If however you are the sort that can diagnose and  repair the typical problems that all used machines carry with them then go  for it--you wil likely save a bunch of money but remember to keep some of those savings reserved for when the machine does break--and it will, they all do, even new ones.

Until rather recently I had no involvement with ATVS, UTVs and the like; though I've ridden motorcycles since I was 13  (some 61 years ago). After-sale warranty  support on bikes is terrible, generally blank stares and long waits for "the factory" to respond. My impression of the ATV/UTV industry (largely through forums such as this, and online reviews, is that it (the ATV/RTV industry)  carries this to new lows.

So my bottomline advice to the OP is: 

• Drive, and quite thoroughly listen to and inspect, that 2012 RZR. If you do not feel comfortable in assessing it's condition then find someone who does and bring them with you. Listening to it is vital--all machines will tell you when something isn't right but you need to be listening. My grandfather (The Scot Steam Engineer) always defined mechanical aptitude  as the "...ability to listen to a machine that you have never seen or heard before and determine if it is operating properly."
• Be extremely critical of any shortcomings or perceived issues--no matter how trivial. Use them as negotiating terms to get the best price.
• Remember at all times that  "The last time any machine starts and runs properly may well have been THE last time it will start and run properly." (again my grandfather's words)--this holds true for ANY machine, new or used.

-cliff-

The fuel pumps on these vehicles are generally prettuy stupid devices, their only job is to keep fuel line pressure around 43.5 psi (3 bar¹). When powered up they just run 'til the line pressure is as desired then shut down until the pressure falls as the engine consumes fuel. They are not intelligently monitored or commanded. by the ECU--they just do their thing if there is sufficient pressure in the line when powered up  they will not run, I think this is what you are observing. To test it you'll need to monitor the fuel pressure and make sure the pump runs when the pressure is less than 30 psi or so. Or divert the fuel line to a container and make sure the pump runs continuously with the key on--be careful though, at 40 psi gasoline can spray everywhere.

How many cc is your t-boss? As a 2020 it is a LInhai under the Massimo badges--I do not have much info on the Linhai machines yet. However the fuel pump relay is likely a little black box in the fuse block.

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¹ - 3 bar (43.5 psi)  is the pressure standard for fuel injector capacity ratings--most vehicle makers supply them with that pressure.

Long intro--bear with me...

I have come to realize that if I get 3500-4000 miles out of the OEM Wanda tires on my 2020 Hisun HS400 I will be doing quite well--I suspect this is due in large part to my being able to get it registered as fully "street legal" (in Florida) and use of that status to make trips to the gas station/beer store (2 miles West) ) and the beach (2 miles East) on a paved road (Florida State Road 206). Going to the beer store I have to straddle the right-of-way with two wheels on the pavement--going to the beach I am right on the road at 40-45 MPH.

In any event, at 620 miles I have already shaved 3/32" or so off the tread.

So, while cruising Craigslist I found a fellow sellin g brand new set of tire and wheels, take-offs from his son's new 2021 Honda Rubicon¹. A set of Maxxis OEM 25x10-12 and 25x8-12 tires just as I will need, on 4x110 bolt pattern wheels--for just $125.  The only quirk was that the offset on he rear wheels is about an inch shy of what my HS400 wants--no problem says I , that's why God invented wheel spacers.

So, next mission was to cruise Amazon and see what Prime could bring me--so I found a pair of 1" spacers for just $34 w/tax & shipping from some outfit calling themselves Freedom County ATV. The only issue was their crappy ad copy made no mention of stud size, just bolt circle--but as a Prime member I'll just send ;em back if they are not M10 x 1.25--it will be  on the vendor's dime.

 Got them today, they are M10 x 1.25 and are very well made--nicely machined and the fit and finish are  great, the studs are marked ass being metric class 12.9, best their is.

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¹ - The kid of course,--being a kid--had to run out immediately, empty his bank account and screw up the new toy's suspension with a "lift-kit" and bigger wheels and tires.

Anyway, here's my Amazon review:
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Got these today (2nd day delivery) and was very pleased with their fit, finish, and value--the reason for my 1 star rating is to see if I can get someone's attention re: their crappy ad copy--specifically absolutely NO mention of the stud size-- which is (drum roll please) M10 x 1.25.

This is a VERY critical specification and the vendor's not listing same, and other critical dimensions, is inexcusable.

I fiddled around the web for a couple of days attempting to determine the stud size (even left a message on Freedom County's website via their "Contact Us" online form--with no response > 48 hours later. I.e. do not expect much support from these people. I ordered them anyway thinking if they do not fit WTF, it's Prime I'll just send 'em back--which would be very unfortunate as it would waste everybody's time & money (time only for me).

This in unfortunate as the product is top notch and a great value. The M10 x 1.25 studs are marked as being metric class 12.9 strength, the highest their is--and greater than SAE Grade 8.

I have included other dimensions on the attached photos. They are not "hub-centric" on my Hisun HS400, however the base of the mounting nut bores are conical, matching the provided nuts; so they aligned nicely.

Again, I do recommend these spacers but it remains lamentable that he vendor did not provide complete specs and has no other method of contact other that their online contact "form" (annoying and silly things that seem rarely responded to).

BTW--turns out that the stud size is mentioned (just "mentioned" by another customer, not specified) in the 16th or 17th customer question.

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I do recommend them despite there likely being NO customer support--as these are just a $34  "either they work or they don't" product that doesn't really matter...

A final note. In playing about with all of this I found that the HS400 has a 44." front track, and 41" track at the rear? This may explain the odd squirmy tracking I have experienced in heavily rutted soft sand at he beach. I think I will install the spacers with the stock rear wheels to get a 43" track at he rear and see if it improves the tracking on the sand. If it does I will likely need to get a set of 2" spacers when I install the Rubicon wheels and tires--but the ding-dong outfit (Freedom County ATV) sells 2" spacers too...

Con for both:

Way the heck out of my "retired and living longer than I thought toy budget".