cliffyk

Got this...

1 hour ago, Travis said:

Do you mean an electronic copy or a Physical copy..

Either way, my email server can handle pretty big files, if you could load it to an archive--or just let me know where they are if you do it as Alex suggested...

The .swf files are "Shock Wave Flash", Adobe's original name for what became just "Flash". They likely just serve up the .jpg files in an indexed manner--I might be able to convert it to something else if you'd like top send me a copy of the CD...

-cliff-

The manual was a "flash" presentation?  HUH, usually they are just .PDF files. The real BS In all of this is that there is nothing inherently wrong with Flash, Adobe just decided they did not want to support it any longer, and MS and other being basically ass-wipes decided to not serve it up. And even if it does pose a security risk, isn't that my problem and decision to make?

I don't know, or care to know, squat about "golf cart" tires--I guess they'd be better for driving on grass. It's the nylon fabric that flat spots, if the thumping doesn't go away in a mile or two you need better tires, not a different tread pattern...

With big heavy tires like these it is not unusual for wheel/tire vibration to  appear at lower to medium speeds in rather narrow ranges. Also, keep in mind these are 4-ply nylon tires--they will develop flat spots when sitting in coldish temps (even at 65° to 70° F)  overnight. It can take a bit of driving for the rhythmic "thump, thump, thump" to go away. Modern steel belt car and bike tires are usually just 2-ply of polyester or rayon and do noy do thius.

I would document it and make the seller aware to cover your backside if it does become a problem "down the road"...

Probably not--over the years I have tried them with little success in motorcycle tires, they "sort of" work for a while but then break down into a fine powder inside the tire. Also it takes pretty good speed to get them distributed and these are big-ass heavy tires...

IS it 3 days "new to you", or just 3 days old?  How many miles/hours on it? If just "3 days new" I would not worry about it, it takes a while for the seals to seat...

That means the seal in the water pump is weeping a bit (that's why it's called a "weep" hole), but not failed--as it stops as the engine warms I would not worry about it too much--one could argue it to be "normal", but keep an eye on it...

Better define "vibrates"< could be a gearbox gear or bearing, or wheel bearings, a bad suspension or strut bushing, or an unbalanced tire/wheel?

We need more to go on, where does the drip originate?

I had to smash the bulb and use pliers to twist up the lamp base to get it out on the passenger side of my HS400. Thought I was going to destroy the socket--but it survived...

My only comments is why, what is the appeal:

Is it the 8% less torque to the ground, plus power lost due to higher rotational mass--the 27s, just the tires,  will weigh 8 to 10 lbs more each; the wheels another 4 to5 lbs. each--(probably another 47, so -12% in total)?

The 5% speedometer error (it will read slow vs actual speed)?

Re: spacers;

Is it the added stress to the axle bearings and all other suspension components?

Higher unsprung weight (12 to 15 lbs. per corner) guaranteed to deteriorate handling and ride;

Or that they will "look real cool"/

$110 each from AlphaSports--a bit better...

Amazon has a number of less expensive options if you feel creative...

It looks good--I think you accomplished a lot of improvement!

20 hours ago, Travis said:

These are the crimper/strippers i use

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-5-in-1-Automatic-Wire-Stripper-and-Crimper-GS-394/301925039?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_11_TOOLS_And_ACCESSORIES-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-New_Engen&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_11_TOOLS_And_ACCESSORIES-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-New_Engen-71700000072501775-58700006340111859-92700057208561306&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgtWDBhDZARIsADEKwgMXGYn1uUWeskfeoRcjEjDUoXrlL5CD2VjmFJPU7cJYuy_09dtUFDcaAiVvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

That is what a friend calls a "squasher", better is the staking type, best is full compression:

Here is another sort, for non-insulated terminals:

I use it when the insulation would be in the way...

34 minutes ago, Travis said:

Heh, never knew crimping the end of those would help hold. 

Learn something new everyday.

It was new to me less than a year ago--didn't know that plastic could be crimped...

Much better, but you need a better "full compression" crimping tool--like this from HF. It lets you crimp both the metal terminal to the bare wire and the plastic insulation to the wire;s insulation forming a strain relief.

Like this:

Close enough--my Hisun HS400 is 393 cc--but "T-Boss 550" out of 493 cc--IDK...

9 hours ago, TapBoss said:

Hey Cliffy,  he's got a slightly different model 550  than mine so 493cc.

It is most definitely a Linhai-550 then...

I wish Massimo (and others) would stop doing that--493 cc is at best a "500", stretching it to 550 in the model designation is a bit much. Years go I has a BSA 441 Victor. guess how many cc displacement it was?

8 hours ago, bjones said:

Thanks, I am somewhat familiar with this set up. Have a koler two cylinder engine on my 0 turn that would kill a plug after it got hot and it turned out to be the coil.  I put one of those inline plug tester devices on the cylinder and it  showed eractic spark. Do you think my coil could be weak?  I have suspected this but haven't replaced it. Thanks 

Same thing, though the Kohler might have two coils if it's a V-twin (jut one if it's a "boxer"). Using that same tester on the Mule  may reveal something. The resistance tests shown in the manual should be pretty positive.

$43 (w/ free shipping) on eBay for a new genuine Kawasaki part.--p/n 21171-7035 is what you want:

Interesting little beasts, these earlty mules--only 400 cc, not much HP (10.5 @2400)--but GOBS of torque at low rpm (22 lb·ft @ that same 2400 rpm!!!).

Peak torque on my 24.4 HP (@ 7500 rpm) Hisun 400 is only 17.1 lb·ft☹️--also @ 7500 rpm, which in reality is an engine speed the CVT will never allow (except maybe when "pedal-to-metal" on an open road somewhere). I suspect real Hp that actually makes it to te ground is more like 15-18. Rubberband CVT efficiency is just 40 to 80% or so depending on a number of factors (drive ratio, belt stiffness, etc.)  In  general hihger "gears" (numerically lower input--> output ratios) are the least efficient.

Here are some interesting charts from a great study "The analysis of an influence of rubber V-belt physical properties on CVT efficiency" by A Kot  W Grzegożek  and  W Szczypiński-Sala of the Cracow University of Technology:

(belt "A" is the most flexible tested, belt "C" the least)

Unless someone decides to push hard on her "naturalborn" citizenship status (both parents were not citizens)--in witch case (not a typo) Pelosi becomes President--and I would not want to be in between her and her potential Presidency...

Leaving the plug heat range aside--your 2007 Mule 610 (be it a model KAF400A7F, KAF400B7F or KAF400C7F) uses a magneto type ignition system in which the power to fire the plug is derived electromechanically by a magnet on the alternator rotor rapidly rotating past  a stationary single coil  ignition coil--a long winded way of saying it is independent of the vehicle's battery power. You could remove the battery and if you could turn the motor over fast enough (likely just 100 to 200 rpm) it would make a spark.

here are those components:

Here's a link to the ignition system description and test procedures from the service manual--this will let you adjust and test the magneto to determine the underlying problem.

-cliff-