John Taylor

Got my Massimo T-Boss 550 back. It took a while, almost 2 1/2 months. The problem causing it to be locked in 4 wheel drive was the front Wheel drive Servo. The shop I took it to is the only shop in my area that works on them. The shop seemed to be really busy, as every time I called to check in I had to leave a message. Only answer I got was "waiting on parts" I finally drove to check up thinking it may have disappeared. When I got there It was sitting outside, but the shop was full with all brands, plus three Massimo's . The owner was loading up a trailer to deliver to their owners. Yes, he does pickup and deliver. His employee told me they had tried to unlock the front end with no luck. The new part was in, but they thought they would have to return it since they said they checked the old Servo and it did actually work when tested not installed. They wanted to show me. Well when they tried to show me the old unit, which only had 27 hours on it, did try to work. Well it didn't . They put on the new one and low and behold it worked. I test drove it, worked. I am hesitant to use the wheel drive completely locked up, but the few times I have tested it, It works. Glad to have it back and I am back to spraying my fence lines. The weeds had gotten out of hand. To many miles of fence line to spray with a hand held pump. All caught up now. Fingers crossed that this was a fluck !!! The shop owner said he will be becoming a Massimo dealer in the near future. They are good units if gone through and serviced before the sale. The ones sold strictly through a certified dealer should have all the minor adjustments done with all oils checked and everything lubed before sold. Cost from an ATV./UtV dealer may cost a couple hundred more, but worth eliminating the issues.

I Tried the everything I read and yes I do also own a 4X4 Truck with the electric switching for 4 wheel drive. I do understand you can reverse to help it switch back, but nothing has worked with my 2023 T-Boss. I called Tractor Supply and they referred me to a mechanic that they us for their warranty jobs on these machines. It has been two weeks and I gave the mechanic a call and the answer was that he was so busy he hadn't gotten to mine yet. On drop off he checked all the fuses and relys . All checked out. He said he though it was the front 4 wheel drive Servo, I don't know, but makes sense since it is almost impossible to drive the way it is now, only wanting to go straight or if you turn slightly it suddenly turns all the way, then almost impossible to get straight again. I only have 27 hours on it, but from what I am told it is out of warranty according to sale date. I loved the machine until this. Not only low hours, but an easy life. Only used to spray weeds on fence lines on property, mostly in low gear. Not even using the SUV Battery to power the sprayer, I use a marine battery to power the sprayer to save the SUV Battery. Looking forward to getting my machine back in working order. At my age I didn't want to spend over $15,000 for a machine that I probably won't use for more then 5 or 6 more years. Before this one I had a 2005 Kawasaki Mule which gave me great service until it was replaced by this machine which had so many supposed to be easier to use features. Everything on the old Mule was mechanical, only issues was battery changes, oil changes and tire changes and near the end showing rust.

I hatve owned my T-Boss for 16 months. For my use which is very light, I was very happy with it. The only issues I had with it so far was having to tighten all the bolts. Most were loose. I assume the assemblers just didn't recheck once completely assembled. Yesterday, it all changed. I was spraying weeds on my property. One area was slightly wet which I noticed once I was in it. Not to make it worse I put it in 4 wheel drive. I went through the small area with no problem. The issue happened when I went to get out of 4 wheel drive. I couldn't get it out. I checked the fuse and the relays . All checked out good. Still same issue. I even removed the relays hoping it would disengage itself. No results, reinstalled with still no results. HELP, HELP, HELP, I HOPE SOMEONE HAS AN ANSWER . At this point I cannot use it, as it is just about impossible to steer. If I could get it back to two wheel drive or disengage the front drive to make it steer easier, it would be usable for me. I am not a mud rider, just need it for light work and pleasure.

Valve adjustment! Or timing

It probably is one of the rely's . It was my problem. I have been running mine wired on the one good rely. I just have to make sure the headlights are off when I cut it off or the way I have it wired cutting off the switch doesn't cut off the headlights also. They stay on and I have to cut them off with the light switch. For safety I put in a toggle switch that kills everything. Before that I had someone turn on the headlights while I had it parked just about killing my battery. I was lucky it turned over just enough to get me started again. I haven't replaced the rely's yet because I don't know what caused them to go bad suddenly. I think I may have a short somewhere in the wiring. Looks Like I had a rat or squirrel or rat chew some of the wiring. Works and runs well on one rely, but know I'm pushing my luck. My charging system seems to be erratic since though. Sometimes my hour meter works and sometimes not. When it is working my battery is charging when it doesn't battery isn't charging. I hook a battery tender on it when parked and I haven't had problems with the battery cranking as long as the headlights aren't used for to long. At my age I don't do much night driving. Best of luck!! Will be watching for the results in your search of a fix!! John Taylor

A battery tender it the ticket with these Mules. I go several weeks at times without using mine and since I have started using a battery tender, my battery is usually ready to go. My Mule is a 2005 model and am on my third battery. Probably could be only two, but I did replace the original battery after I put my winch on, upgrading to a battery with more reserve amps and cranking amps. I felt the original battery didn't have the amperage to operate my 3500 lb. winch in a hard pull. I just bought a cheap 3/4 amp battery tender (not the name brand) at Tractor Supply on their reduced section. Actually bought every one they had once I saw that they did work. I have one on each of my riding mowers, my tractor, 4 wheeler and my Mule. All work great, unfortunately I haven't seen them since at Tractor Supply. These do not charge a dead battery, just keeps your battery topped off and ready to go. They do not harm the battery in over charging like a higher amperage charger left on does.

No, rear end and engine oil fill isn't the same. Pick up the seat and look for a round plastic plug probably 4 inches around. Pop it out and you will see a dipstick, it has a rubber end, pull it out and that is where you put the engine oil in. The drain plug or plugs are under the engine. You can remove either one and drain the engine oil. You will have to jack the mule up. I put mine on jack stands for better viewing. You will see the oil filer in front of the engine and the oil plug is in the general area to the side or below. I cannot remember at the moment. But, no, engine and rear end oil aren't the same on the Mule. Most of the smaller 4 wheelers are, but not the Mule. Hope you didn't get this to late.

Apparenty bottomed out my Mule and pushed the rear brake line out of place causing it to rub on the bottom of the engine and wear a hole in it. I Looked into buying a new line, but thought the asking price from Kawasaki was very expensive so checked with my auto repair shop. I knew there was a place that they had brake lines specially made for older vehicles that the lines were discontinued. I had a big hold and only a small piece of line holding it together on one side. They said they would not attempt this on an automobile line, actually not legal to braze an auto line, but did braze my Mule line, blew it out and pressure tested it to over 100 lbs. of pressure and was good to go. Put it back on, has been over a year and still holding. Make sure the rubber grummits that hold it in the clips that hold the line in position are in place. I had to make new ones for mine since they had been lost. I cut about 4 inch rubber hose, and split it to go around and made sure they were secured in place. I also zip tied the line in place as another precaution to make sure it stays where it is suppose to. It isn't just a Mule issue, a friend has a Ranger and has torn his brake line apart more then once.

Webserf Your main jet is plugged up. Run Sea Foam in it and it may clear up. If not remove the carb bowl and float needle valve and use a needle or straight pin and clear the main jet.

I bought a 610 Mule used about a year ago. Wife and I really enjoy it and so do our grandkids. I have a hard time using it seems like someone is always riding it. It has been good so far. I changed the battery, was in need of a battery with more reserve power to operate my winch. I have had a starting problem in the past couple of weeks. Sometimes all it does is click when I turn the key and acts like I have a dead or weak battery. Upon checking the battery it is not the battery. I had been using boaster cables and boasting it off with my truck. The last time it did it I was out and no vechile near. I gave the started a wack with my hammer and it turned over. Once home I took the starter apart and all looked almost like new so I cleaned up everything, connections and lubed the bendix and installed it back again. Working so far but not sure my problem is solved. Usually it happens when I have trailered it and no where near home. Will update on this later. John