aefron88

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

There's no choke on the newer hisun/coleman UTV's. They are fuel injected. The older ones were carberauted, not sure what year they switched maybe 2015-2017ish?. The older coleman branded manual incorrectly shows a choke lever on the dash, as well as some other antiquated info. Cold start issues could be a bunch of things, I would start with valves and plug (they're right there together), move on to fuel, fuel filter, and injector, and if still having issues I would check the ECT sensor. I have heard of some failing. If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it will not inject the extra fuel required for a cold start. In the downloads section of this site there is a fairly comprehensive factory service manual for these available.

look in the downloads section on this site for coleman/hisun theres a full wiring diagram for this unit for the HS400 with diagrams of the connectors. see if you can match it to one of the connectors on the diagram.

There are 3d interactive instructions in the Bilt App unfortunately you'll need a smartphone or tablet to access them. If you have any questions feel free to post here. Most of it is pretty self explanatory except how the roll cage bolts together.

There are some configuration settings that can be changed, I believe idle speed is one of them. It can also adjust fuel mapping if you really want to squeeze those extra 0.2 ponies that these things are likely capable of, but I'm not brave enough to play with that.

You just need the VAG-KKL and the 6 pin adapter. Those I can confirm work, other ODB-II solutions may or may not work I have not tried them.

Just out if curiosity how many miles/hours did you put on it? What exactly are they saying the issue is? Frequently commercial use shortens or negates warranties so that doesn't entirely surprise me.

Again, Can you post a picture so we can guess what tube you are talking about?

There's no cat on these things. If I had to guess the engine temp sensor is bad and once warmed up is giving a wrong temp, causing the fuel map to not adjust. Here's my post about how to get the diagnostic tool working for around $25 in parts. You can see what each sensor is outputting so you don't just throw parts at it. I would expect in your fase the engine temp sensor to be reading cold when the coolant is actually warm. Get the tool going and see what it shows and post and we can help you troubleshoot further from there.

Generally speaking that will be the case for any vehicle, same as your car/truck. The antiroll bar is to control body lean during high speed turns, and lower the risk of rollover. If you are careful to not make high-speed turns you should be fine. Offroaders routinely disconnect their roll bars, and some higher end off road vehicles actually have electronically disconnectable ones (so you can keep them connected for the road, and disconnect when offroading)

Can you fill us in from the start so we can help you properly? So I'm assuming (correct me if i'm wrong) you had a no start and decided to change that stuff? What exactly was it doing? It cranks over properly when you turn the key? What is the battery voltage before you try to start it?

Yep likely stretched. Buy a new chain and compare lengths and I bet the new one is shorter.

The NOID tester just catches the quick pulse and gives you a flash of light. A lot of meters won't catch the voltage with that quick a signal. Some high end meters will, and oscilloscopes will too. You can also reset the ECU with Hud ECU hacker and the cable... I wrote this thread explaining how to set up HUD ECU hacker and get the proper cabling

Sounds like it may still be somewhat misadjusted. I know some people have reported doing the FSM adjustment, but kind of in reverse to get it to work, I believe there's an old thread by cliffyK where he states that's what it took him to get it to work. There's nothing else that would cause this that I'm aware of other than the shift cam not quite being thrown far enough. I'm just passing on information on this, I have not needed to adjust mine or add the extended throw modification and so far mine has been fine.

Absolutely a NOID light set (or just a single one for these style injectors) will give you an idea that the ECU is telling the injectors to fire. There has been a history of injector plugging on Hisun engines, up until a few years ago they didn't even have an inline filter so all the tank crud got stuck in the little screen inside the injector. You can also buy cheap ebay/Amazon fuel injector testers that give a firing signal to the injector and bench test them yourself to make sure they flow and have a somewhat reasonable pattern. You can also buy a cheap fuel pressure gauge to check that you have enough pressure on the line. You should be able to buy all three tools for a little over $100 and run thru the entire fuel injection system if you want to.

Bharms, I see you marked my post as a solution. Does that mean the wire clip was loose? Please fill us in so the next guy knows.

Good to hear. There are a few parts that seem to be problematic, like the timing chain, on these motors. I figured if I ever need to cross that bridge I would try and see if the Yamaha timing chain would fit as a more reliable replacement.

I would just use and toss, maybe try to clean em at home. I don't know that there is a "quality injector" to be had on the market. You said it yourself one of the cleaned and flowtested ones won't even get your engine to run. So either there's an issue with that shop tested injector, or there's another issue going on that a different injector is masking.

Shifter modification info if the adjustment doesn't work.

Geoff, the first step I would try is the cable adjustment linked in my post above. It can be touchy so you may need to got thru it multiple times. If that doesn't work the next step would be to modify the shifter lever. There was a post just a few days ago with pictures explaining it. It does require welding so if that's not within your skill set you might need to take it to a shop.

What do you mean by "relearn procedure"? ECU reset? How did you perform this? Did this start with an outdoor temperature change? IE it ran fine when it was warmer out but now that it's cold it dies at idle. If you give it a little gas does it stay running? I'm wondering if the coolant temp sensor might be giving a false reading which would adjust the fuel map to where it won't idle

Let us know if you find parts that fit. I believe it's a rhino 450 clone, but not sure if engine parts are swappable,, AND I've yet to read any definitive reports of anything swappable. The engine tune is adjustable via HUD ECU hacker software, which is free. Just need about $25 in cabling and the time and knowledge to play with the fuel mapping. Here's my explanation on how to get HUD ECU hacker working on these rigs and what you need That having been said its a 400 so you wont likely squeeze much more out of the engine.

There are a bunch of options on amazon. I don't have a specific recomendation as I havent needed to swap one, yet. I probably wouldn't bother paying an injector shop to clean a $40 injector, but maybe that's just me.

Someone already answered your question in the coleman forum:

There's no MAF it's a MAP/intake air temp (pressure as opposed to flow) sensor. I would replace that torn up o-ring and lightly lube them with silicone grease (avoid regular petroleum based grease as it can cause the rubber to swell) Since you've already replaced the plug and checked the air filter, have you ever checked the valve lash? I would start there. If the valve lash is in spec I would check the injector next, it may be partially plugged. It's also possible you have a sensor feeding bad info into the ECU which would effect fuel mapping, like the sensor noted above, but aside from fixing the orings that will be harder to track down.