Quantcast
Jump to content


Making changes


Guest Lenny

Recommended Posts

I'm putting extra head gaskets on my engine to lower the compression ratio which has been way too high with the supercharger. Decided to pull the engine and tear it down to give it a lookover. Anyway in doing so, I almost got hopelessly tangled up in the maze of wires, hoses and lines around the engine. That was enough, tore it all out to redo it, that's going to be a job! Thought others would be interested in how I saw things.

A cable runs from the parking brake handle to near the rear of the frame to the master cylinder mounted on a 5 pound bracket(weighted it) from which the pressure line goes under the engine where it splits to two lines which run back forward to near the swing arm pivot points then back again on each side to the brake calipers. A fat 3 foot long hose runs from the fuel filter near the gas tank to the fuel pump which is on around the lower left side of the engine. From there a line runs another 2 feet to the fuel regulator from which another 5 foot line returns back to the tank along with a short 1 foot line going to the injectors. I'm not going to even attempt to describe the electrical nightmare. For the parking brake, I moving the master cylinder up to just behind the brake lever on a new aluminum bracket/lever arm and connecting it with a rod, no cable. The outlet at the master cylinder will tee and a line will go directly to each brake. The original bracket for the master cylinder and the plate it mounts on gets removed. The fuel pump will be mounted just behind the gas tank where I can get to it without standing on my head should I need to. The heavy hose will run just a few inches to it and the regulator will be just above it with its short return line then a 2 foot line will go to the injectors. I figure I can get enough for the left over copper after redoing the wiring to pay for, well, something really nice. I have a feeling that when all is said and done that I will be between 10 and 15 pounds lighter and the most exciting part is I'll and the cool air will be able to see my engine on the left side. I also made a new oil pan which holds a lot more oil and I can drain without removing anything or reaching way in. My oil seperator canister is also going on the rear wall of the panel behind the seat, again eliminating a lot of hose. I'll do pics when done.

Wow, I'm way behind on pics.

Merry Chrismas and Happy New Years to everyone. You are all a great bunch of people and friends.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One suggestion about fuel lines, I used that clear, Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called, and found that it has a problem with the pressures on the Trooper, I had it develop a very small leak past the clamp where the screw type clamp overlaps itself. I think it would be wise to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One suggestion about fuel lines, I used that clear, Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called, and found that it has a problem with the pressures on the Trooper, I had it develop a very small leak past the clamp where the screw type clamp overlaps itself. I think it would be wise to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line.

Kinarfi

I had a fuel line let loose once and it sprayed gas all over the engine. Very dangerous. I'm going to braded steel reinforced lines.

And Rocmoc, I may have lots of time on my hands but can't seem to find any free time. Stay too busy. I was a millionair plus two different times in my life. Never managed to hang onto it too well. Then I retired and found out that it isn't about money at all but all about time. You work all your life so that someday you can get the time to play all day every day doing what ever you want. This is what I did when I was a kid, build things and now I get to go back to my childhood and do it some more. Life is great. And thanks, I may need all the luck I can get on this wiring venture. A little intimidating but exciting. Between this and the engine management system, my Trooper will be down for a WHILE.

Lenny

PS, I also changed the frame so now I can take the oil pan off without pulling the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are preaching to the choir. Ask anyone who know me the most valuable thing to me, except wife, cats & kids, is time. Even more so than money. You can not buy it on any market in the world. I can't find the time to play with or maintain hobbies or toys because of my adult responsibilities, bummer. The second is I work to play. Never grew up, stop every day at 3pm, the time school let out, and hate to work in the summer. The school system ruined me or was it they made the better me.

One of my greatest concerns is the deterioration of the rubber items on the Trooper, boots, covers & etc. Even tho mine is kept inside except when played with, the rubber is all starting to crack.

Just as long as you are having FUN!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My rubber stuff is going too and I also keep it inside. All we can do is address things as they come and fix them to be dependable and long lasting. I think not keeping my millions made me a better person too. I havn't lost track of those things that really matter in life. Besides, if I would have actually bought that Turbo Carrera when I was young, I would probably be dead today.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

One suggestion about fuel lines, I used that clear, Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called, and found that it has a problem with the pressures on the Trooper, I had it develop a very small leak past the clamp where the screw type clamp overlaps itself. I think it would be wise to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line.

Kinarfi

Let me rephrase that, I know it would be better to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line. My Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called just developed a 1" split and started spraying fuel all over the place. Sure glad it didn't burn. If you have it, replace it.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Let me rephrase that, I know it would be better to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line. My Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called just developed a 1" split and started spraying fuel all over the place. Sure glad it didn't burn. If you have it, replace it.

Kinarfi

Don't worry about it Jeff, you have all your bad luck behind you. It won't burn. You should have clear sailing from here on out.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinarfi, where is a match when you need it? LOL! Hang tough.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Man, that's a scary thought, not the fire but the building of a new one and correcting and fixing all the things I have done to this one. Might be fun though, to avoid the errors I made on this one.

Kinarfi :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By mark walkom
      the regen braking on my e1 has stopped working unless (for eg) I am going down a hill in low and it's slowing things down to stick to the 10kph limit. when I drive and take my foot off the accelerator it's not initiating the regen to slow things down and instead just coasts at whatever speed it is at, or speeds up as the regen is not limiting it. the brake lights work, so it's probably not a fault with the sensor on the brake pedal
       
      hoping someone else might be able to provide some suggestions on things to check, as the mob that I bought it off seem to have gone silent on me
    • By Reynolds Rocket
      I have a 2017 Intimidator XD4 800cc 4x4.  It will run great and then it's like it goes into safe mode and only runs on 1 cylinder.  It's not fouling out the plug when it happens.  Some times when I stop and restart it, it works fine.  First I thought it was a spark issue, then a fuel issue, but I feel like it's a short in the wiring some place. 
    • By PossumTruck
      Greetings,
      I have a client that wants me to install a heater of some sort to aid in cold weather starting (she uses it at her business, has had issues starting the last few days in sub-zero). I would prefer a coolant heater to a pan heater (silicone pad), but I cant for the life of me find the diameter of the coolant hoses. Heck, I'm not even sure if it would work as well in this application given how long the hose is compared to tractors and trucks I have installed them in. 
      Any advice you could give me would be GREATLY appreciated. 
    • By lmarkie
      I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
      Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
      Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
      Any thoughts?
    • By redneckred
      Can anyone tell me how to get the engine codes to display on a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X?  I played with the gauges once and lucked up on this but can't remember what I did.  Will the codes automatically display if there is a code or do you have to cycle through the display?
×
×
  • Create New...