Quantcast
Jump to content


Making changes


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm putting extra head gaskets on my engine to lower the compression ratio which has been way too high with the supercharger. Decided to pull the engine and tear it down to give it a lookover. Anyway in doing so, I almost got hopelessly tangled up in the maze of wires, hoses and lines around the engine. That was enough, tore it all out to redo it, that's going to be a job! Thought others would be interested in how I saw things.

A cable runs from the parking brake handle to near the rear of the frame to the master cylinder mounted on a 5 pound bracket(weighted it) from which the pressure line goes under the engine where it splits to two lines which run back forward to near the swing arm pivot points then back again on each side to the brake calipers. A fat 3 foot long hose runs from the fuel filter near the gas tank to the fuel pump which is on around the lower left side of the engine. From there a line runs another 2 feet to the fuel regulator from which another 5 foot line returns back to the tank along with a short 1 foot line going to the injectors. I'm not going to even attempt to describe the electrical nightmare. For the parking brake, I moving the master cylinder up to just behind the brake lever on a new aluminum bracket/lever arm and connecting it with a rod, no cable. The outlet at the master cylinder will tee and a line will go directly to each brake. The original bracket for the master cylinder and the plate it mounts on gets removed. The fuel pump will be mounted just behind the gas tank where I can get to it without standing on my head should I need to. The heavy hose will run just a few inches to it and the regulator will be just above it with its short return line then a 2 foot line will go to the injectors. I figure I can get enough for the left over copper after redoing the wiring to pay for, well, something really nice. I have a feeling that when all is said and done that I will be between 10 and 15 pounds lighter and the most exciting part is I'll and the cool air will be able to see my engine on the left side. I also made a new oil pan which holds a lot more oil and I can drain without removing anything or reaching way in. My oil seperator canister is also going on the rear wall of the panel behind the seat, again eliminating a lot of hose. I'll do pics when done.

Wow, I'm way behind on pics.

Merry Chrismas and Happy New Years to everyone. You are all a great bunch of people and friends.

Lenny

Posted

One suggestion about fuel lines, I used that clear, Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called, and found that it has a problem with the pressures on the Trooper, I had it develop a very small leak past the clamp where the screw type clamp overlaps itself. I think it would be wise to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line.

Kinarfi

Posted
One suggestion about fuel lines, I used that clear, Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called, and found that it has a problem with the pressures on the Trooper, I had it develop a very small leak past the clamp where the screw type clamp overlaps itself. I think it would be wise to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line.

Kinarfi

I had a fuel line let loose once and it sprayed gas all over the engine. Very dangerous. I'm going to braded steel reinforced lines.

And Rocmoc, I may have lots of time on my hands but can't seem to find any free time. Stay too busy. I was a millionair plus two different times in my life. Never managed to hang onto it too well. Then I retired and found out that it isn't about money at all but all about time. You work all your life so that someday you can get the time to play all day every day doing what ever you want. This is what I did when I was a kid, build things and now I get to go back to my childhood and do it some more. Life is great. And thanks, I may need all the luck I can get on this wiring venture. A little intimidating but exciting. Between this and the engine management system, my Trooper will be down for a WHILE.

Lenny

PS, I also changed the frame so now I can take the oil pan off without pulling the engine.

Posted

You are preaching to the choir. Ask anyone who know me the most valuable thing to me, except wife, cats & kids, is time. Even more so than money. You can not buy it on any market in the world. I can't find the time to play with or maintain hobbies or toys because of my adult responsibilities, bummer. The second is I work to play. Never grew up, stop every day at 3pm, the time school let out, and hate to work in the summer. The school system ruined me or was it they made the better me.

One of my greatest concerns is the deterioration of the rubber items on the Trooper, boots, covers & etc. Even tho mine is kept inside except when played with, the rubber is all starting to crack.

Just as long as you are having FUN!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

My rubber stuff is going too and I also keep it inside. All we can do is address things as they come and fix them to be dependable and long lasting. I think not keeping my millions made me a better person too. I havn't lost track of those things that really matter in life. Besides, if I would have actually bought that Turbo Carrera when I was young, I would probably be dead today.

Lenny

  • 6 months later...
Posted

One suggestion about fuel lines, I used that clear, Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called, and found that it has a problem with the pressures on the Trooper, I had it develop a very small leak past the clamp where the screw type clamp overlaps itself. I think it would be wise to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line.

Kinarfi

Let me rephrase that, I know it would be better to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line. My Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called just developed a 1" split and started spraying fuel all over the place. Sure glad it didn't burn. If you have it, replace it.

Kinarfi

Guest Lenny
Posted

Let me rephrase that, I know it would be better to stay with the reinforced black rubber fuel line. My Tygon or POLYURETHANE, Ether, or whatever it's called just developed a 1" split and started spraying fuel all over the place. Sure glad it didn't burn. If you have it, replace it.

Kinarfi

Don't worry about it Jeff, you have all your bad luck behind you. It won't burn. You should have clear sailing from here on out.

Lenny

Posted

Kinarfi, where is a match when you need it? LOL! Hang tough.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Man, that's a scary thought, not the fire but the building of a new one and correcting and fixing all the things I have done to this one. Might be fun though, to avoid the errors I made on this one.

Kinarfi :D

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rmillerdesigns
      Hello. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU 500. I was putting on a lightbar and i screwed up and didn't disconnect the battery so when i was taking of the positive cable to put on the power from the lightbar it sparked and now the utv has no power. I turn the key over and all i hear is a chirp. No lights or anything. Everything that comes from the battery to the jumper box up by the battery shows voltage but anything coming out does not such as to the winch or anything like that
    • By J Cardwell
      2024 villian overheating shuts down to crawl mode. If I turn it off for 30 minutes power returns to normal. 
    • By oakhill
      When I am moving forward on my Hisun 500, the motor accellerates up and down while I have my foot on the gas pedal.  It also is not idling very well.  Both symptons appeared at about the same time.  What should I look for?  Thanks.
    • By lmarkie
      I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
      Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
      Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
      Any thoughts?
    • By riggy400
      Bought a Coleman 400 UTV (pretty much a Hisun), the previous owner tried to replace the timing chain, couldn't time it properly and sold it to me. After some hours I figured out how the timing all is supposed to be set (I think/hope) and as I am reassembling, I noticed that the water pump gear was awfully hard to spin. I held the gear with my hand and spun off the impeller. I checked the bearing, spins great no obvious issues noticed other than this o-ring which seems to be out of place? When I remove this o-ring and reassemble the WP, it seems to spin nice and easy without a drag. I looked up the service manual (although very inaccurate info there often) and don't see this o-ring present. Am I missing something here or what? Any input? 
      This is not easy to access once the engine is back in the machine so would like to avoid having to deal with this if it becomes a problem.

×
×
  • Create New...