I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
Does anyone know what the recommended fuel pressure readings are for an 1100 Sand Viper? I recently had the gas tank and fuel pump replaced and now the engine is very difficult to start and when first depressing the gas pedal the engine bogs down to the point of almost dying unless you quickly depress the pedal to almost full throttle. The readings I'm looking for are.
1. Pressure reading when key is turned on and fuel pump is engaged but engine is not started.
2. Pressure reading when engine is idling.
3. Pressure reading at full throttle.
Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1100cc T/2 that I am replacing all of the propeller shafts, ball joints, tie-rod ends etc.. I am also going to relocate the Radiator, air filter and exhaust for mudding.
parts I need
2 front propeller shafts/ Axles
Front and rear Hub Bearing kits
Mud flares for fenders
All Gage's except the speedometer and tachometer. I do understand that these two Gage's are fed from the computer and the rest from sending units. For the engine oil pressure, engine temperature, alternator, and fuel Gage's, I have checked fuses, sending units and wiring harnesses for loose or broken wires, and have even changed out one of the Gage's but nothing has changed. I have read forums and have not been able to gather any information to assist me. Any information or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
We have found it to be louse gauges.When we test oil presser we put a new new gauge and we have about 12lbs. of pressure at ideal.and usual 45 at speed witch is good.
So if you want the true pressure than you replace gauges.Same with the temp gauge.Just junkie gauges you can buy auto meter gauges for the same price.All you have to do is run a new wire or some times use the old wire from the original system.