Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ain't been doing much, just working around the house and the property. Also been working on a lift gate for my fiancee's Jeep Grand Cherokee. Her's has a lot of rust damage. Just trying to stay busy and stay cool at the same time.

  • Like 1
Posted

Been out doing some light tree trimming on the UTV.  Especially branches that tear my hat and glasses off as I mow around them on the ZT..  Getting warm and humid here in Michigan.  I don't do well anywhere above 80 degrees or 70% humidity.   Now back in the basement "office" checking in on UTV Board.  😀

  • Like 1
Posted

The wife loves to mow, so who am I to stand in the boss’s way? Bad thing is she gets the zero turn and I get to trim and weed eat. She loves to mow so much I volunteered her to mow a new to the hood neighbors yard in their process of moving here. We will mow their yard most of this year. They have six mowable acres and we have six too. Twelve acres to mow, old age, and 100° temps means I drink a lot of water, Gatorade, and beer. 
Gottta learn to keep my mouth shut when volunteering her yard mowing love!

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Posted
On 6/29/2024 at 5:37 PM, Joe Breaux said:

lol  We only get low 70% humidity in January cold fronts...We wake up to 96% every morning ..Last year we actually had Heat index in the 120s for a month.. Its hot down here in the swamp.🥵

I work on a ship that travels between Houston, Southern Lousiana, and Florida...miserable all summer. I dont know how you guys manage it. I never seem to find the right balance between staying hydrated and peeing constantly. I have worked asphalt barges in Lousiana in the summer too. 300 degree cargo means the temperatures on deck are even hotter since it radiates through the steel.

Much nicer at home in Maine the other half of the year.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just finished rebuilding a small deck on a side door.  UTV used as a work and saw station.   Humidity high and 85 degrees.  Very little air movement in the work area.   Done now, both the job and me.  Cool basement office awaits a few hours of nice cool temp.   

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By malenurse13
      We've got the old Kohler motor out and the new Predator 459cc in!
      But before we put the motor in there. I took some pics of the old wires. I'm hoping y'all can help me figure out what all these are for and what we need to keep. 
      There are a lot of inline fuses. And all the labels we can read say "12v pos" or "regulator/rectifier."
      Main thing I'm looking for:
      1. Wires to connect the stock ignition to the starter on the new motor
      2. Wires for the headlights
      If anyone can help me identify what all these wires are for, I'd appreciate the help!

    • By malenurse13
      We bought a used American Landmaster TW450 with a Fuel Injected Kohler 440 on it. Today, I bought a Predator 459cc 15.8hp motor from Harbor Freight. But before we put the new motor in, it's pretty obvious, the stock throttle length is NOT long enough. The stock throttle cable from gas pedal to the end is only 32 inches!
      We need at least another 10-12 inches to get to the throttle linkage on the new motor. What can we do??
      Is there some way to modify the original throttle to add some length? Or do we have to buy a brand new cable?
    • By Tommy2bits
      Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says....
      For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range 

    • By ChiefKen
      I had read in a pass post that there was a modification for the gEarsheft level to help prevent slipping out of gear. 
      I check the parts list and the assembly is out of stock. 
      Is there a design for the modification? 
      Mine has been working fine up till the last week or so., and getting worse. 
      I have made the cable adjustment and it still will not stay engaged unless I apply pressure to the knob. 
      Has the modification been mass produced or is it design, up and weld?
      thank you all for any information you can supply. 
       
       
      Update 30Sept2025
      I contacted Alpha Sport. Com and asked if they had shift lever in stock has the modification made to their stock.  They are unaware of any modification. 
      I  made the modification myself. All went well, with the help of all the nots and photo in this group.  Thanks to all their hard work. 
      The installation went well, too, except for one thing. The cable mount in the engine compartment, are (2) 19mm (might be wrong on size) nuts holding the cable in place, in front of the lever. Once I made the modification, the connection to the lever is very tight. Did I miss something. I believe the angle is too tight. Please advise
×
×
  • Create New...