By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
Am starting a major transformation of a ndw Mule Pro FXT to turn it into a Reliable Scouting & Hunting Vehicle. Interested in first finding the absolute best off road forum that has great participation the more technical areas like planning accessory wiring, ground clearance options and bracket lifts. Someplace where people who know how to do stuff, participate. Is this a good forum for more technical stuff and where there are Mule owners who upgrade and work on their machines? My project is taking a new Mule Pro FXT and taking it through a complete project from adding lots of electrical, adding a fuse block, ground block, OEM heater, dual battery system, gun rack, sound system, nav display, inverter power outlets, 360 degree LEDs, cabin lights, W/S, phase 2 upgraded tires, full cab, rear W/S, and so on.
Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing.
I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem.
I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position. I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
1 1/2 years ago I was riding along in my 2018 Coleman 550 Outfitter when the CVT belt broken. Just prior to that I was having some shifting issues that I now understand can be part of the clutch. Finally a few months ago I sent it in to a shop who put in a new belt as well as a new wet clutch (drum, one way bearing, etc and an oil change) He fired it up and it turned on fine, sounded fine and I took it home. It was an auto shop but not a UTV specific shop. So get it home and after a half hour or so it started making some noises with my 10 year old driving it around. I get home and he said theres noises again and I played around a bit. Within a short bit of trying to drive it around I started having noises that I now understand was my One Way Bearing being destroyed. Aka metal noises from the bearing falling apart. Of course, after the cost of $800 to take it to a shop plus $200 in gas, trailer rental etc to take it in and back (it was a friends shop that was a bit of ad istance) I was quite ticked and pushed the UTV back into my garage and left it for a while. Then this past weekend i watched a bunch of Youtube videos along with a mechanic friend to pull things apart. We found the spindle was loose, opened it up further and found the one way bearing fell apart in my hand and the little bearings were already worn, no longer round and this was from less than a hour of use. THerefore leading me to believe it had very quick failure after the new wet clutch was put in. We looked things to look for damage further. Nothing really scratched/grooves etc so I ordered a new OEM bearing and we put it in, sealed it back up, followed the specs of everything and was 110% sure we put the One Way Bearing in correctly. We rode it around for a hour, sounded fine. Next day used it, sounded fine for a half hour. Third day I turned it on and let it idle a little bit and found that I was hearing metal scraping again like I did right after getting my utv back from the shop. Therefore I am 99% certain the One Way Bearing is about to break again (already breaking) Its a brand new OEM belt. Nothing looks off on the spindle. I do not know for sure if the shop touched the inner race for which, in my understanding, the One Way Bearing spins. I know I may be sounding ignorant here. I am not a mechanic by any means but I have learned a bit with the recent Youtube videos and attempted repairs. Whatever that "ufo" looking object is, we replaced the bearings (those black things that spin) I replaced the whole "Ufo" lol... as the original had some wear/tear that prevented it from spinning perfect. Nothing currently
visibly looks off... and the issue is mostly when the machine is more in an idle. It was at an idle when the One Way Bearing sorta went kaput the last time. THe noises is at an idle... but if I can get it drive, its fine. It also affects the ability to shift the gears.
I know I will have to replace the One Way Bearing again... I just dont know what might cause the issue that is destroying the bearinga nd so quickly. Again, this all started when the belt snapped when I was going about 15 mph down a road on a warm day. It has higher miles. The wet clutch was in bad shape and its replaced. The paperwork says "wet clutch assembly kit") Is there something that the belt can do to cause damage that might not be as visible but would directly create an issue that lets the bearing get ate right up?? Help me! I hate this machine and I really want it to run well ... so I can sell it and find something else haha..