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By KidColeman
Hi All,
Just picked up a 2020 UT400 that my 80 year old father will be driving around the farm. We purchased the machine with a few "issues" and they lowered the price accordingly. Small stuff like passenger size mirror and back reflector was torn off by a Tractor supply employee, which we will order replacements for. Also after further inspection, whoever assembled it did not put a few bolts in the rollcage and aren't in the glovebox, so will be having to order those also.
Anyway, there are two initial things on the UT400 I'm not sure what they are or for. The first, there is a square white electrical connector with about 8 pins hanging form under the middle of the back bed - I don't see another one to match up or plug into it, so wondering if this is pre installed optional connection for like towing around a sprayer? Anyone know what this is? Also, there is a 10 inch black rubber hose that is zip tied to the back A frame on the passenger side. I watched the assembly video and it doesn't mention one, so don't know what this hose is for - anyone know?
Also, has anyone come up with a "fix" or work around for having to have the seatbelts plugged in or even in place? We aren't planning on using them and are figuring just plugging them in and wedging them behind the seats - didn't know if there is a way to just disconnect the "over 10mph gas starving" safety sensor.
Looking forward to seeing how this machine does for my father. I'm thinking about installing a suicide knob on it for easier turning for him, as it's a little stiff (compared to our Kawasaki Mule). Maybe with use it will loosen up some?
Thanks!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By mac66
Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet. Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price. Just curious.
Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Mater Help
I have a 2019 Bennche Warrior that I mostly use around my property for odd jobs. I also cruise the neighborhood and make short runs to the local pub and neighbors houses. The exhaust system is super loud. I was hoping to find something that will fit and work that is quieter. I have included a photo of the system that is on the unit now. Any ideas or recommendations?
Second question: Recently, it has become hard to shift from park to any gear if the engine is running. The shifter moves fine if the engine is off. It is almost as if the clutch (no pedal) is not disengaging completely. I have not tried to do anything to correct the condition yet but as it gets increasingly more difficult, I need to do something. Looking for a place to start. Nothing in the service manual that I can find.
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
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