Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys, have any of you had a issue with the front wheel bearings? It sounds like my passenger front one is bad. It pops and creaks when driving. When I have it up on jacks it creaks about twice per revolution of the wheel when I spin It by hand. It only has about 310 miles on it.

Posted

Hi guys, have any of you had a issue with the front wheel bearings? It sounds like my passenger front one is bad. It pops and creaks when driving. When I have it up on jacks it creaks about twice per revolution of the wheel when I spin It by hand. It only has about 310 miles on it.

While you have it up on jacks, try wiggling it side to side, if more than just a little, 1/16", get it replaced, it seems they always pop and creak when they're going bad. I've replaced the rear bearings twice, the first ones looked like they had been hot on under water, ugly, and the second set failed in under 200 miles, I had ordered the roller bearings, but they were slow getting to Silverbullet, so I had to use ball bearings while waiting for the roller bearings.

read this post, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2304-rear-wheel-bearing-gone-bad/page__view__findpost__p__11258

Kinarfi

Posted

Thanks, I do have a bit of movement so I'll go ahead and replace. I was just surprised they failed so quickly (probably shouldn't be surprised). With all the popping it was making on the trail I was worried it was a cv joint.

Posted

Thanks, I do have a bit of movement so I'll go ahead and replace. I was just surprised they failed so quickly (probably shouldn't be surprised). With all the popping it was making on the trail I was worried it was a cv joint.

call silverbullet for your bearing, they're an odd ball bearing and he's the only source for the roller bearing that I know of.

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/turbo800/silverbulletbanner.jpg

Posted

Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call.

Another source at least for the rear bearing, not sure about the front, is Casey at JMC Motors 480-545-1693. I know they have the rear bearings at $50 or so. They are the tapered roller bearings which don't need the grease seal. If Silver Bullet doesn't have them this would be a good second source if you need to get it quickly.

Posted

I just checked the manual and it calls for the same bearing on all 4 corners, I thought so but I did check,but beware, the seals are not the same on both sides of the bearing, the manual says it has an outer diameter of 65 mm on both seals, but that is wrong, it shows different values, 48 & 45mm, for the inner diameters and all are 8mm thick, I think I stated the correct sizes in my bad rear wheel bearing post.

Kinarfi

Posted

The seals are just added protection. The bearing has a seal. If you can't get the seal, just be careful & reuse. BMW does not use the additional seal but of course the quality of the bearings BMW uses maybe a bit higher.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

Thanks guys, I'll be careful when I pull the seals just in case I can't find another set. I'm glad to know that all bearings are same size, sounds like I'll probably be replacing the rest shortly.

Posted

Thanks guys, I'll be careful when I pull the seals just in case I can't find another set. I'm glad to know that all bearings are same size, sounds like I'll probably be replacing the rest shortly.

I know the bearing is a odd size but I'll bet that the seals are a standard size that can be gotten at your local power transmission supplier.

Lenny

Posted

I know the bearing is a odd size but I'll bet that the seals are a standard size that can be gotten at your local power transmission supplier.

Lenny

Yes you can get them but I had to wait almost a week for them to be shipped to the local seal supplier and the shipping cost me more than the seals did. Here is a link that will help with getting the seals and the install, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2258-technical-articles-in-this-forum/

rocmoc n AZ

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC

    • By paul allen
      right front axle cv joint boot keeps getting torn up from the inside out....the stock one was damaged from a stick...i have replaced  the axle 4 times with aftermarket axles that fit fine..after 4-5 miles of riding even on grass.the outer boot get torn up from the inside out...all 4 brand new alxes...bearings are fine nothing bent everything fits just fine....nothing seems to be binding.....any thoughts?????
       
       
      thanks...pa
       
    • By Sidewinder
      All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.

    • By fikey
      I am about 6 months in to owning my 520. It is used mainly to run back and forth to our barn and shop. Occasionally, I run it up and down a few fairly steep hills on the property. One day, as I was going up one of the hills, the motor started sputtering and a tremendous amount of smoke was coming out of the exhaust. I was near the top and it made it (sputtering) up. Once back on the flat, I made it home. I loaded it on the trailer and took it back to the dealer. They said they checked everything out and found no issues. Over the next month or so, I only had occasion to go up hills once or twice with no issue. Then one day, again as I was going up a hill, the engine sputtered, giant plume of white smoke and then the engine died. 30 seconds later, started up and made it to the top. Repeated the route (down and up) and the same thing happened again. Called the dealer and their head of service said he would come out and wanted to see it first hand. He came out a few days later and repeated the route several time and it never happened with him in it. I had videoed the whole thing on one of the times it happened to me, but since it happens intermittently, could not produce it when he was here. I told him that I had checked the temperature, the oil level and the antifreeze level after each occurrence and they were normal. I asked him to call Kubota and ask what the possibilities were and that I am not fond of it dying on the hill and blowing the smoke and I didn't want to wait until something catastrophic happened to figure it out. When I followed up, they had no answers (which doesn't exactly please me). Any ideas? The attached photo was the start of the smoking. Didn't know how to upload the video of the whole thing, but it fogged the whole area.

    • By MilSurpYinzer
      Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
      I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
      A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
      A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
      Tire chains for the winter
      And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
      Bumpers because duh.
      I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
      Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
      Thanks so much!
×
×
  • Create New...