Steerable Rear Wheels

[Kinarfi]

We seem to be an inventive bunch! how hard would it be to put the front hubs on the rear so we have a steerable rear wheel? Would that make for some tight turns?

Kinarfi

[ricksrb]

We seem to be an inventive bunch! how hard would it be to put the front hubs on the rear so we have a steerable rear wheel? Would that make for some tight turns?

Kinarfi

Kinarfi,

Now that we may have the front steering issue resolved you want to tackle the rear????(LOL) Whats next a convertable top??? HHMMMM..maybe not a bad idea...(LOL) the rear wheel steering would really benifit the T-4.

[rocmoc]

Kinarfi, tires would hit the swing arm. Would be difficult to do with the independent config we have. Steering BRAKES would be the way to go. Good for everything but hard surfaces.

Rick, maybe a articulated body for the T4 would be easier.

rocmoc n AZ

[ricksrb]

Kinarfi, tires would hit the swing arm. Would be difficult to do with the independent config we have. Steering BRAKES would be the way to go. Good for everything but hard surfaces.

Rick, maybe a articulated body for the T4 would be easier.

rocmoc n AZ

I think i will just stick to the what i do now in tight situations,the wife gets out and lifts the rear end to manuver around the tight spots.(LOL)

[2scoops]

We seem to be an inventive bunch! how hard would it be to put the front hubs on the rear so we have a steerable rear wheel? Would that make for some tight turns?

Kinarfi

I like the way you think Jeff.

Obviously we would have to redesign the rear swing arm and it would need to be a hydraulic driven actuator. Hmmm, that would be sooo sweet. IMHO an A-arm rear suspension would be optimal. I wonder though, in the 3-link design I am already contemplating, if one of the lateral links couldn't also act as a tie rod. The rear wheels wouldn't have to turn a great amount to greatly increase the steering radius.

Would you want it to work in tandem with the current steering or be on an independant lever?

[Guest Lenny]

Kinarfi,

Now that we may have the front steering issue resolved you want to tackle the rear????(LOL) Whats next a convertable top??? HHMMMM..maybe not a bad idea...(LOL) the rear wheel steering would really benifit the T-4.

When I redo my top bars, it is going to be a convertable with sort of a humped rear fastback design. This way when I do an enclosure, the rear deck will be covered too. That way, in cold weather, my dogs will be indoors with Jeanne and I. Lets see, a roll bar capable convertable, that ought to be interesting to come up with. Rear wheel steering would be slick but complicated. I like the wife getting out idea.

Lenny

[nocturnalsixer]

I like the way you think Jeff.

Obviously we would have to redesign the rear swing arm and it would need to be a hydraulic driven actuator. Hmmm, that would be sooo sweet. IMHO an A-arm rear suspension would be optimal. I wonder though, in the 3-link design I am already contemplating, if one of the lateral links couldn't also act as a tie rod. The rear wheels wouldn't have to turn a great amount to greatly increase the steering radius.

Would you want it to work in tandem with the current steering or be on an independant lever?

If I was going to do rear steering set up I would have a extra lever in three position..first position for both front and rear steering to work in tandem, then position two lock out the rear steering so it would be only front wheel steering, then third position would be for "crab walk" where both front and rear would point to same direction that way we can crawl/walk sideway like a crab if needed in some situation

[rocmoc]

If I am/were going to get that serious I would step-up to a real rock crawler. The Trooper does a great job, with modifications, doing the what is was designed for. Never good to take an apple and try to turn it into an orange.

rocmoc n AZ

[Kinarfi]

If I am/were going to get that serious I would step-up to a real rock crawler. The Trooper does a great job, with modifications, doing the what is was designed for. Never good to take an apple and try to turn it into an orange.

rocmoc n AZ

I hesitate to use the word lemon, but being as my compression on cylinder one is 0 except for when it's revving up, then it's 120, so I need to do it over, 2 & 3 were 75, then my tester broke, so I think I'll just go buy one and start over.

But maybe we can change lemons into oranges.

I was looking at mine after I started this post and it looks like 10 or 15 degrees would work with the current swing arm. but I don't think I'll even mess with this idea.

Kinarfi

[nocturnalsixer]

I hesitate to use the word lemon, but being as my compression on cylinder one is 0 except for when it's revving up, then it's 120, so I need to do it over, 2 & 3 were 75, then my tester broke, so I think I'll just go buy one and start over.

But maybe we can change lemons into oranges.

I was looking at mine after I started this post and it looks like 10 or 15 degrees would work with the current swing arm. but I don't think I'll even mess with this idea.

Kinarfi

U rebuilt the engine once already right? Did u made sure to position the piston rings where gaps doesn't line up and is 120 degree from each other to prevent easy route for blow by?

I believe that trooper is a excellent foundation to build a rock crawler from a trooper just replace the front and rear whole suspension and put Dana 44 in front and rear and build up a 3/4 link coil over solid axle suspension similar to Jeep and u got a smaller than Jeep crawler

[Kinarfi]

U rebuilt the engine once already right? Did u made sure to position the piston rings where gaps doesn't line up and is 120 degree from each other to prevent easy route for blow by?

I believe that trooper is a excellent foundation to build a rock crawler from a trooper just replace the front and rear whole suspension and put Dana 44 in front and rear and build up a 3/4 link coil over solid axle suspension similar to Jeep and u got a smaller than Jeep crawler

Yes, ring gaps do not line up, I'm suspecting one of my valves is way out of adjustment, when the people that did my head and valves tried to adjust the valve, they ground off some of the valve stem to get the correct clearance, but that doesn't work with the chery engine because there is not enough stem above the keeper assembly.

Maybe someone can come up with an extended stem and we can replace all the shim puck with the same thickness plus a few thin shims (.002+.004+.008+.003) and then just file or grind the stem to get the valve clearance we need and as they wear and get out of tolerance, we could remove some thin shims under the puck to bring it back into specs, I hear that as they wear, the valve clearances get too tight.

Rock crawling is not really my thing, sand is OK occasionally, but mostly I like mountain roads, an ideal trail would be just wide enough for my Trooper with ups and downs and twist and turn and lots of flora and fauna, but not wide enough a 4x4 truck and until I get my front shocks redone for a smoother ride, a little on the smooth side. My present stock shocks are way to harsh on rocky ground and it seem like they compress some, then slam back to fully extended with no dampening, ICK.

Kinarfi

[rocmoc]

Lemons to Lemonade, Maybe !

I an not a fan of the mountain/fire/logging roads. It doesn't require much of a 4X4 so something with a enclosed cab & AC is preferred, like a CAR. LOL !

I like to medium rough stuff with a crawling section every so often to slow down the pace.

rocmoc n AZ

[nocturnalsixer]

Lol I like logging roads and I have taken my trooper into woods where only quads and dirty bikes can go no truck or tractor could penetrate the woods at all and went over fell logs no problem it did very good for me I only like high speed for fields and gravel road to get from one spot to other spot and AC/cab isn't important to me yet lol it do get hot/humid in Iowa in summer recent summer it was as high as 115/120 and sticky it was terrible if u didn't have any breeze on you.

I think maybe silver bullet motorsport might have valves for u or maybe u could take measurements of valves and order stronger better ones? Those shim packs I heard cause more trouble than help down the road from my automotive class teacher, i'm currently in diesel/medium heavy duty trucks class ill ask the teacher in that what he thinks of those. He's a whiz at engines

Also i'm not a fan of taking some amount off the tip of stem

[Kinarfi]

Yes, ring gaps do not line up, I'm suspecting one of my valves is way out of adjustment, when the people that did my head and valves tried to adjust the valve, they ground off some of the valve stem to get the correct clearance, but that doesn't work with the chery engine because there is not enough stem above the keeper assembly.

Maybe someone can come up with an extended stem and we can replace all the shim puck with the same thickness plus a few thin shims (.002+.004+.008+.003) and then just file or grind the stem to get the valve clearance we need and as they wear and get out of tolerance, we could remove some thin shims under the puck to bring it back into specs, I hear that as they wear, the valve clearances get too tight.

Rock crawling is not really my thing, sand is OK occasionally, but mostly I like mountain roads, an ideal trail would be just wide enough for my Trooper with ups and downs and twist and turn and lots of flora and fauna, but not wide enough a 4x4 truck and until I get my front shocks redone for a smoother ride, a little on the smooth side. My present stock shocks are way to harsh on rocky ground and it seem like they compress some, then slam back to fully extended with no dampening, ICK.

Kinarfi

I kind of hyjacked my own thread, Oh darn! Found my problem, I checked my compression with the engine running and notice #1 plug was sparking around the top of plug seal / boot part of the long spark plug plug, I guess that's what you could call it, any way, got to looking at it and pulled the soft rubber piece off and it had a nasty little carbon track that was taking the spark away from my plug, so I scraped it off and wire brushed it and then cleaned it and put it back together and then applied silicon spark plug boot release and put it back together and problem is gone.

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