tapered roller bearings

[2scoops]

I fixed my rear wheel bearing in 15 min. Took the rear wheel off and fond the two bolts that hold the spindle to the swingarm were loose. I fell a little dumb I spent $150 on wheel bearings, but also relieved that t was an easy fix.

For now anyway. My front left has about 1/8 inch of play at the top of the tire. That is acceptable for now.

[Kinarfi]

Bearing are in, no wobble, smooth, great, now I have to see why the right inboard CV was moving up and down with the engine idling, not 4 X 4, no locker, 3rd gear, used a 2X4 to stop the right wheel so only the left wheel was turning. also, I had the engine idling in neutral and the wheels were turning and when I stopped the left and the right kept turning, every once in a while the right would stop as if the locker was coming in and when i put it 5th and sped the engine up, 60 MPH, I heard a 'screech' similar to what I heard when I quit riding a few day ago and put it on the trailer, thinking I had lost a bearing, My thinking was wrong, both bearings were still operable, but needed changing.

I think my rear diff is malfunctioning, DAMN, hate it when that happens.

[nocturnalsixer]

Bearing are in, no wobble, smooth, great, now I have to see why the right inboard CV was moving up and down with the engine idling, not 4 X 4, no locker, 3rd gear, used a 2X4 to stop the right wheel so only the left wheel was turning. also, I had the engine idling in neutral and the wheels were turning and when I stopped the left and the right kept turning, every once in a while the right would stop as if the locker was coming in and when i put it 5th and sped the engine up, 60 MPH, I heard a 'screech' similar to what I heard when I quit riding a few day ago and put it on the trailer, thinking I had lost a bearing, My thinking was wrong, both bearings were still operable, but needed changing.

I think my rear diff is malfunctioning, DAMN, hate it when that happens.

Why not keep rear locked up to have less issues?

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[Guest Lenny]

The CVs loose on the output shafts allowing them to wobble. That can also cause banging noises. I didn't care too much about the wobble but I didn't like the noise so I fixed mine. My CVs now clamp tight to the shaft and require a puller to get them off.They come off easier now then when I had the retaining ring which I eliminated. I have pictures of what did but just havn't gotten around to posting them yet. I almost always keep my rear diff locked. Not only does it allow me to power slide turns easier, it climbs much smoother on loose stuff. When not locked, you can still climb most stuff but if one wheel gets on a loose spot or is trying to go over a loose rock, it wants to spin, spitting it out the back.That slows forward momentum. When locked, it tends to roll over the spot as the other wheel pulls it thru. Not only do you better maintain forward momentum its also easier om the drive train by eliminating a lot of impacting when the spinning wheel catches traction again. I typically keep it in 4x4, not locked in front, for the same reasons.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

I know that you've been working on this problem, what did you come up with?

Pretty sure my diff is messed up, I'll be pulling it today. What I saw was the CV was moving around even though the wheel was being held from moving, so I'm thinking the output stub axle is moving and not being held in place by the bearing. I'll know more later, and take photos

[Guest Lenny]

Sounds like the CV balls have come out.

Lenny

[charlie]

Lenny u leave ur diff "rear" locked most of the time I think I'm gonna start doing that! Still don't have a real smooth transition from lock to unlock but I havnt been riding much! Still looking for a cable

[nocturnalsixer]

Yeah i also keep my rear locked unless i gotta make very tight turns lol

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[Guest Lenny]

I'll take it oun on hard surfaces like paved roads.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

I was right, the differential had malfunctioned, broke the heads of 3 bolts and destroyed a bearing, the one in the middle, (I had fotos, but web shots quit) I meant to take a few more photos, but got carried away with getting it fixed, I had a spare diff that had a piece busted out of the main case, so I put the internals in this case. Headed for the dunes tomorrow, so I'll see how I did.
Lenny, remember how on the first kits we did, you machined a nut down to where if filled the hole on the ring gear. I think the use of a bolt without a shank may have been why the heads popped off. one of the bolts worked itself in more to where it was grinding aluminum off, sorry I forgot to photo it. I'll have some more photos after I get things cleaned up and have time, trying to get ready so Little Sahara Sand Dunes.

[Guest Lenny]

If I remember correctly, you didn't us the locking nut on the back side. Even if the head broke off, the rest of the bolt shouldn't have been able to move. Were the other bolts still tight? The bolt heads broke off just below the head. That isn't where any shear forces are present. I don't see how the heads broke off. I don't use a shanked bolt because nobody makes them with the solid shank short enough. It almost looks like there was something in the diff that clipped the heads and knocked them off. Did you use loc-tite between the ring gear and its mating surface? Did you use soap and water to clean the bolts and threaded holes along with the mating surfaces? It's important to use a cotton swab to clean the threaded holes in order to get all the oils out of the threads.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

If I remember correctly, you didn't us the locking nut on the back side. Even if the head broke off, the rest of the bolt shouldn't have been able to move. Were the other bolts still tight? The bolt heads broke off just below the head. That isn't where any shear forces are present. I don't see how the heads broke off. I don't use a shanked bolt because nobody makes them with the solid shank short enough. It almost looks like there was something in the diff that clipped the heads and knocked them off. Did you use loc-tite between the ring gear and its mating surface? Did you use soap and water to clean the bolts and threaded holes along with the mating surfaces? It's important to use a cotton swab to clean the threaded holes in order to get all the oils out of the threads.

Lenny

I'll have to wait til I get back from the dunes to clean and examine the removed inners of the diff. Can't remember if I soap and watered the ring and flange, I do believe I did the radial sanding though, I'm thinking that to get my shanked bolts I went with longer bolts and cut them off so I had the shanks, I'm also thinking that is what I just installed. It's the one that I did my own machining on by grinding the head down with the grinder while spinning the bolt with my drill.

[Kinarfi]

While I was replace the front bearing and the rest of stuff on my loose front end, I took time to jack the rear end up off the ground and tested to see how much play I had in the rear bearings, glad to say, it was as tight as it could be.

[Tinman]

If the new bearings are loose by only one or two thousands, I would contact Loc-Tite and see if they make a bearing seat compound that will take high pressures. If they do, this could solve the problem. If its looser then that, I would talk to a plater to see what they can do. I would think that a plating would need to have a compressive strength of 20,000 to 25,000 psi to be strong enough.. This would be better then welding and grinding which would be a last resort but probably a little expensive. Getting a nice clean weld on the ID with it being as deep as it is would take a good welder. I would be inclined to hire a professional welder that, that is all they do. Hard to find a really good welder but they are out there, call around to people that hire out their production welding. Don't have the machine shop do it. Let them do the machining. I would think that an interferrance fit of about .0005 to .0010 would be enough but talk to a bearing supplier or look it up on google. What ever you do, don't hammer the bearings in place unless all the hammering blows are on the outter race edge only. Pressing in is better,

Lenny

From my machine shop days, bearings are usually .001 / inch interference. Which means a 6 inch dia bearing would be press fit .006, which sounds like a lot but worked fine. We would usually heat up the bearing in oil, then drop it on, or if on the inside, freeze them in nitro. Without either, lube well with decent oil and carefully knock them on, hitting the part in contact with the hub.