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By Toofast4you
I have been working on variations of the Clutching for the 6 Arm design and have had Outstanding results . The Test vehicle is a 21 Turbo RR completely stock. All changes are in the Primary Clutch . The 6 Arm clutch made more power than the P Drive (stock) after the 6 Arm was properly calibrated. Here is the final Dyno pull . This is the stock clutching vs. the Prototype Kit . Very Impressive ......Just wanted to show that you can get plenty of performance out of the 6 Arm clutch and not buy a P Drive . In Fact , i tweaked a P Drive and The Graph was almost identical when both clutches were ran ....Both of these clutches were ran on the same machine ....
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By Heidi Wilmoth
You will quickly see that I am new to this and don't quite know how to pose this question. I gave myself a Coleman 400 UTV for my 65th birthday a month ago."To Yaya: From Yaya" I've noticed a couple issues. First, as I drive around our acreage, sometimes it just putters, almost sounds like it's going to turn off. The other issue is the lights on the dashboard that correspond with forward, neutral and reverse don't match up to the actual gear. Sometimes it does but most of the time it doesn't. What I mean is that when I put it in forward to drive, the reverse light will be on the dashboard light. Sometimes it will be the forward light. When I put it in Neutral, sometimes the light on the dashboard /N lights up and sometimes it doesn't. Lastly the gas gauge does not register. Although the tank is almost full, it shows E / Empty.
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By Rustynutzz
After a Christmas parade where I did some sustained high speed driving I heard some metal scraping sound. I thought it was the engine brake at first but after putting it up on jack stands and listening where the sound came from it certainly is the rear shaft area. I'm wondering what has to come off to gain access to the area. Since I have the rear seat version i'm certain the seat has to come off. Definitely can't do it from the bottom, too many crossmembers in the way. Anyone had to replace one? Here's a pic of the one I believe it is. It bound up to the point where it won't move after pulling it off the trailer in two wheel or four wheel drive.
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By Working hard to hardly work
Hey guys im in the process of rebuilding my massimo 500, and like a dummy I did not mark the cam. Im having a harder time finding timing info than i thought. Can anyone give me a no bs way to where and how i need to align the crank and cams to time this thing? Im still trying to learn how to properly time motors so any dumming down would be appreciated.
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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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