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Trooper loud clunk in front

Jacksnife

By Jacksnife
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

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Jacksnife Contributor

Jacksnife

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I'm having a loud bang in the front every now and then. It sounds like it comes from the left and right wheels (alternately). It doesn't do it on flat road at all, only on a rutted dirt path. At first I thought it was the suspension violently reaching the extent of it's travel, kind of like a no rubber metal on metal bang.

I just got it (used) so it's a mystery how long this bang has been there.

Any ideas?

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hfrick Enthusiast

hfrick

Posted
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agreed with Bigdan ...also Quite often you will find loose shock bolts at one or both ends of very stiff sprung shocks..also having stiff front shocks tends to "jarr" or bang the suspension back to the top..there are lots of bolts and joints to bang up there...pay particular attention to the upper and lower balljoint

( the joint itself ,where the joint fits the a arm..and where the pinch bolt joint is) for movement/loose parts...hate to see something come apart ...Hardy

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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I don't think I have ever pin pointed where it's coming from, but I do think its every little ounce of play in the suspension bottoming out all at once, I still have it after 20,000 kilometers!

I tries using limit straps, not help, It seems like my most productive attempt was to make the front end suspension as lightly sprung as I could, but I have some 200# springs which I think is a bit too much. Seems to happen on rebound.

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Jacksnife Contributor

Jacksnife

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No, I haven't gone fast enough in 4x4 to even try it. 4x4 all locked is so hard to turn it's basically useless unless I'm in a jam (mud)

It never happens cruising down the pavement. It appears to only happen when one of the front wheels come off the ground. I don't know if it clunks when the wheel leaves the ground or when it hits back on the ground, but it is violent. I would compare it to a 5lb sledge hitting the frame (with considerable force). My steering box is so loose that I'm going to try that first. I'm considering a replacement that might help ease up the 4x4 steering vs just applying the looseness 'fix'.

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bigdan120 Rising Star

bigdan120

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This might sound dumb but see if you can do a video with sound for us to hear... maybe take pictures of all your front end with tires off...

As far as steering in locked 4x4..

I believe there all like that...

I installed my own electric steering. Can be done now for less then 300.00 if you can fab and weld..

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Tinman Community Regular

Tinman

Posted
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I mean, only when you're in 4x4? if so, it could simply be your diff lock cable is out of adjustment, even if you didn't use the diif lock. the adjustment is finicky and it will clunk loudly every once in a while if the asjustment is out.

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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Crappy video of steering box play...

https://youtu.be/1i86n12J5l4

Hard to argue with that, crappy, looks like you need front wheel bearings, rock your tire like that and look for movement between the hub and the cv that goes to the axle. Lenny used to sell a fix for your play, but I think he quit making them, an alternative would by to put some shim stock between the top plate and the slider piece, maybe replace the top plate with a thicker plate or make it out of steel.

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Jacksnife Contributor

Jacksnife

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Score!! $140 - http://www.protodie.com/Steering-Rack-End-Load_p_72.html

I'm pretty sure that one is the same one made by Latest Rage (http://www.latestrage.net/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=944&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1〈=en) which should be a direct bolt on replacement. The only thing I'm worried about are the splines. I read the Joyner version has 32 teeth and this one has 36 teeth?? I need to take it apart and count I guess.

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Jacksnife Contributor

Jacksnife

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The bearings are tight... all that play is the rack going up and down. I though about fitting a piece of phenolic between the rack and the top plate... but for $140+shipping I might as well replace the whole thing (if it bolts right on)

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